96blackta

iTrader: (7)

I spun a bearing, so my friend and I are going to do a rebuild. The main point is to get my car into DD shape, while squeezing some power out of it with a cc503 cam. Besides the cam, I would like everything to be as stock as possible. Being that I'm a poor college student, I want to try and write out all the parts and get a rough estimate of what this will cost me. So far I know we'll need valve springs, bearings, piston rings, seals, possibly an oil pump, and possibly a crank shaft. Is there anything I'm missing? Also any tips and suggestions are completely welcome!

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Lol, you need to talk to ME. I just blew up my 153k mile motor about two months ago and built a CC503 cam-only replacement and swapped it in. Also considering you are like 20 mins away from me.

monster81

with the cc503 u cant really keep everything stock, this cam is quite big enough for the stock heads,..that u will require LT's, high stall TC, and at least a 52mm TB,, or may be a tune if u can still afford it.
IMO the best cam for ur application is the GM hot cam kit

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

The CC503 is widely known as the largest cam that will work effectively with stock heads. Headers should always be a must, a higher stall is recommended, but you don't need to touch your TB, a 48mm TB will more than support a CC503 build.
Tune is a must as well.
Hot cam would be inferior to the CC503.

9sec93

iTrader: (67)

the hot cam isnt worth the labor of the install. cc503 and never look back! and that is correct about the throttle body, leave it stock. i went mid 11's n/a with a cc503 cam, unported heads, and a stock throttle body. mid 10's on a 150 shot.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

GM is selling entire new long blocks for $1700, and there is another vendor around here selling new short blocks for $1k. For wanting a stock rebuild, that's a steal.

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=652864

dafhturbo

iTrader: (3)

I am finishing my rebuild after a rod knock. I bought a used engine tore it down and rebuilt it. this all started in May. If i had to do it again I would get the $1000 shortblock. I put the crane 10308 spring kit, vig3500 stall, ls7 lifters, and lt headers. I spent over $1000 dollars on bearings, block, cam bearings, main bearings, etc for a stock rebuild.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

There you go...that will beat the price of a full rebuild. Look to spend about $1K on the valvetrain, excluding the cam (~$300), if you buy everything new. PS long tube header are ~$300, y-pipe is ~$150, and a mail order tune from MadTuner is $150.

That leaves you with a budget requirement of ~$3600 for a brand spankin new cam-only LT1. You could save ~$500 by buying used valvetrain and bolt-on parts. You can also try to pick up a used short block for under a grand, saveing you at least $700. That give you a min budget requirement of ~$2400. If you don't have that, just buy a used shortblock, swap it in and call it a day.
Just trying to give you a heads up on actually costs...it always is more than you originally thought.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

on my cc503 swap here's what I spent

Crane 10308 spring kit $180~ NEW
Comp Hardened Pushrods $35~ NEW
Comp Magnum 1.6 Rockers $170~ NEW
Comp CC503 $130 USED

then of course, misc gaskets, valve stem seals, etc

also if you decide to replace your lifters you can get a full set of new LS7's for like $120

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

I have the same springs, got them for the same price. $180 NEW (if you get Comp 918's or PAC 1218's, expect to pay a bit more)
I have TF Chromemoly pr's $86 NEW
Comp ProMagnum 1.6 Rockers $290 NEW (much better than Magnum rockers)
CC503, I think it was a little under $300 NEW.
ARP head studs $40 NEW
TF guideplates $16 NEW

Summit usually has some of the best deals out there. Keep your eyes pealed for deals on used, low mileage parts, sometimes there are killer offers out there.

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

Just don't forget all the little stuff like fluids, seals, etc. That stuff can add up quick if you forget about it.

As for the Hotcam not being worth the install labor, that's definitely debatable. It all depends on budget and what the individual goals are. In this case I'd say that the cc503 is best as long as car has headers, etc, already, or the OP has the money to install them.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

how are they much better than magnum rockers? full roller has less valvetrain friction but for a mild cam build there will be little to no difference powerwise.

and chromemoly pushrods are overkill imo for a mild lift cam

NSA rockers and guideplates are unneccasary for a cc503, SA stuff is more than suitable. though NSA stuff will allow room for growth in the future

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Less friction equals more power, also the car revs up much quicker and much smoother. And adjusting them is sooo much easier than adjusting the roller tip rockers.

Nothing wrong with using the best components possible for a CC503. And like you said, it has room for growth...I don't plan on rocking the CC503 with stock heads forever.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

I've owned both full roller and roller tip and valve lash is still a PITA no difference to me, crane gold poly locks make it a little easier to find zero lash that's about it

many people have done dyno's between roller tip and full roller rockers and shown no difference in power. full roller don't make a car rev up any quicker or smoother that a person will notice whatsoever

it all depends what the person's goals are therefor why I mentioned it

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Finding zero lash is almost the entire adjustment process... Turning the policy lock until it seats (without ever having to touch the pushrod) and then adding the preload and seating the set screw is wayyy easier than slowly tightening the roller tip rocks while spinning the push rod in your fingers, all why being extra careful not to twist the rocker to the side at all for fear of a false zero lash feeling in the push rod. Even when adjusting with the engine on method. With the full roller rockers, it's the same, spin the poly lock until it stops. No need to back it off and listen for clanking, tightening until it stops.

After adjusting Comp Promags more than 10 times, I never want to adjust non full roller rockers ever again.

My buddy's got Comp Magnum rockers and I've got Comp ProMagnum rockers, I can tell the difference right away.

kierstyn

iTrader: (5)

If you look in the forsale section theres alomost everthing you need to do the cam swap used the cc503 cam some rockerarms and other stuff! Also the $1000 bucks for the stock shortblock is a good deal when you figure in all the parts and machine work! If you decide to go that route they may have one that is already bored 30 over so you could get a 355 just ask them before you order.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

I've set valve lash more times than I care to think about and it's still a PITA either way, yes poly locks make it easier, but it's hardly worlds apart like you seem to make it. the difference is minimal IMO, but to each their own.


how so? does the car have the same cam? same tune? same tuner? same gears? same mileage? same convertor? same transmission? same springs?

unless all the answers to that question are yes and then some then it's hardly a compelling arguement. my friend has a cammed lt1 with crane gold full rollers and it feels no different rev wise than mine

there's so many more factors than just one has roller tip and the other is full roller

my car made 325rwhp with midlength headers, stalled unlocked auto, and 130k+ miles with NON-full roller rockers, sounds pretty spot on for a cammed LT1 so doubt there's much if any at all power I'm leaving on the table

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Full roller rockers have been shown to reduce oil temperatures by up to 10 degrees, not to mention decreased oil foaming. The reduced energy needed to move the rocker will free up a negligible amount of horsepower. Most aftermarket full-bodied roller rockers are MUCH stronger than stamped rockers, and thus provide greater reliability.

I doubt that it's something you could actually "feel" just by driving. It is probably more of a psychological effect - driving a car you KNOW is equipped with full roller rockers.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

I've seen alot more aluminum body rockers snap (common full roller construction) than stamped rockers

350's with stock stamped rockers have cleared the 200k+ mile goal for years, so I doubt it will make or break an engine, though there are benefits to full roller (especially higher hp wouldn't recommend otherwise). full roller is obviously the better choice but to say that the other is not worth the time nor money in a mild cam/bolt-on car is incorrect imo