Having problems cranking
#1
Having problems cranking
so my car isnt cranking. this has been going on all winter, and have checked/replaced all the usual suspects. New AC delco battery, installed november. New Starter, installed on my birthday, december 19th. good voltage, 13 volts. the alternator has good voltage. all the lights and the radio still work great.
i really dont know at this point. the car clicks and i can hear the fuel pump comin on. i have researched some of the VATS stuff and dont know if that is the culprit hear or not, just looking for some advice, id definatley appreciate it.
i really dont know at this point. the car clicks and i can hear the fuel pump comin on. i have researched some of the VATS stuff and dont know if that is the culprit hear or not, just looking for some advice, id definatley appreciate it.
#2
so my car isnt cranking. this has been going on all winter, and have checked/replaced all the usual suspects. New AC delco battery, installed november. New Starter, installed on my birthday, december 19th. good voltage, 13 volts. the alternator has good voltage. all the lights and the radio still work great.
i really dont know at this point. the car clicks and i can hear the fuel pump comin on. i have researched some of the VATS stuff and dont know if that is the culprit hear or not, just looking for some advice, id definatley appreciate it.
i really dont know at this point. the car clicks and i can hear the fuel pump comin on. i have researched some of the VATS stuff and dont know if that is the culprit hear or not, just looking for some advice, id definatley appreciate it.
#4
Did you bench test the new starter? they do it at autozone, could still be bad. Or a bad connection. Have you tried to jump the starter solenoid with a screwdriver or a wire? If it works there then its between ignition switch and starter.
#5
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
i have the service manual at home with all the wiring diagrams. send me an email and remind me otherwise i'll forget over the weekend,
pretty sure there's another solenoid, or relay, prior to the starter solenoid.
What i would do is get a volt meter, hook the red lead to the small stud on the starter solenoid, this is the small wire that gets power when the ignition key is turned to start.
Black voltmeter lead to ground obviously, turn key to start and see if the volt meter reads battery voltage. If it doesn't then the starter solenoid isn't getting power and your problem is upstream from there towards the ignition switch.
If it does get power, then most likely the starter solenoid is bad.
what you can also do if you don't have voltmeter is run a wire, 14ga or larger, from the starter solenoid small stud to the battery, touch it at battery + and the starter should go. disconnect the battery before doing anything on the starter because the large wire going to one of the big studs on the solenoid is hot! And be careful if you manually jump the starter like this, only let it go for 1 or 2 seconds. The solenoid can draw quite a bit of current, and if you use a small gauge wire you can give it less than 12 volts and cause the solenoid to fail. The starter & solenoid on my boat is the same and I went through 2 solenoids before finding the starter slave solenoid was bad causing the solenoid on the starter to then go bad.
pretty sure there's another solenoid, or relay, prior to the starter solenoid.
What i would do is get a volt meter, hook the red lead to the small stud on the starter solenoid, this is the small wire that gets power when the ignition key is turned to start.
Black voltmeter lead to ground obviously, turn key to start and see if the volt meter reads battery voltage. If it doesn't then the starter solenoid isn't getting power and your problem is upstream from there towards the ignition switch.
If it does get power, then most likely the starter solenoid is bad.
what you can also do if you don't have voltmeter is run a wire, 14ga or larger, from the starter solenoid small stud to the battery, touch it at battery + and the starter should go. disconnect the battery before doing anything on the starter because the large wire going to one of the big studs on the solenoid is hot! And be careful if you manually jump the starter like this, only let it go for 1 or 2 seconds. The solenoid can draw quite a bit of current, and if you use a small gauge wire you can give it less than 12 volts and cause the solenoid to fail. The starter & solenoid on my boat is the same and I went through 2 solenoids before finding the starter slave solenoid was bad causing the solenoid on the starter to then go bad.
#6
i have the service manual at home with all the wiring diagrams. send me an email and remind me otherwise i'll forget over the weekend,
pretty sure there's another solenoid, or relay, prior to the starter solenoid.
What i would do is get a volt meter, hook the red lead to the small stud on the starter solenoid, this is the small wire that gets power when the ignition key is turned to start.
Black voltmeter lead to ground obviously, turn key to start and see if the volt meter reads battery voltage. If it doesn't then the starter solenoid isn't getting power and your problem is upstream from there towards the ignition switch.
If it does get power, then most likely the starter solenoid is bad.
what you can also do if you don't have voltmeter is run a wire, 14ga or larger, from the starter solenoid small stud to the battery, touch it at battery + and the starter should go. disconnect the battery before doing anything on the starter because the large wire going to one of the big studs on the solenoid is hot! And be careful if you manually jump the starter like this, only let it go for 1 or 2 seconds. The solenoid can draw quite a bit of current, and if you use a small gauge wire you can give it less than 12 volts and cause the solenoid to fail. The starter & solenoid on my boat is the same and I went through 2 solenoids before finding the starter slave solenoid was bad causing the solenoid on the starter to then go bad.
pretty sure there's another solenoid, or relay, prior to the starter solenoid.
What i would do is get a volt meter, hook the red lead to the small stud on the starter solenoid, this is the small wire that gets power when the ignition key is turned to start.
Black voltmeter lead to ground obviously, turn key to start and see if the volt meter reads battery voltage. If it doesn't then the starter solenoid isn't getting power and your problem is upstream from there towards the ignition switch.
If it does get power, then most likely the starter solenoid is bad.
what you can also do if you don't have voltmeter is run a wire, 14ga or larger, from the starter solenoid small stud to the battery, touch it at battery + and the starter should go. disconnect the battery before doing anything on the starter because the large wire going to one of the big studs on the solenoid is hot! And be careful if you manually jump the starter like this, only let it go for 1 or 2 seconds. The solenoid can draw quite a bit of current, and if you use a small gauge wire you can give it less than 12 volts and cause the solenoid to fail. The starter & solenoid on my boat is the same and I went through 2 solenoids before finding the starter slave solenoid was bad causing the solenoid on the starter to then go bad.
im thinking that you are spot on on the problem being between the maor components, now that i think about it i know that those wires are fairly corroded. so if worse comes to worse, ill just jump the starter and get it home. i can take my time to fix it from there.
my only problem now is something that LS1tech cant fix, i think i hurt my back tonight at work lifting somebodys TV, so unless there is a saint that can help me out around the Clemson/anderson area, there is no way i can get down on my back ill have to wait for my dad to try to get down here and help me out later
but i do ABSOLUTLEY appreciate everbody putting in their $.02, yall seriously helped me out
#7
alright ill post the remedy if anybody searches for this, because i hate cliff hangers.
it turns out that the battery cables were just so corroded and oxidized that they needed to be replaced. THe starter just wasnt getting anywhere near the voltage it should have. since it died in the parking lot of work, AKA best buy, i just ran in and got some 4-guage Rockford fosgate cable and did the "Big Three" mod. started right up, thanks guys
it turns out that the battery cables were just so corroded and oxidized that they needed to be replaced. THe starter just wasnt getting anywhere near the voltage it should have. since it died in the parking lot of work, AKA best buy, i just ran in and got some 4-guage Rockford fosgate cable and did the "Big Three" mod. started right up, thanks guys
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#9
makes for an easy fix. Usually something easy like noted in this second post. Lithium grease does wonders on electrical connections.