List of Grievances (Problems I don't Understand)
02-12-2009, 04:54 PM
#1
List of Grievances (Problems I don't Understand) This is a list of all the unique quirks my 2002 Trans Am WS6 CETA, 40k miles, has developed, and I could use some help with them. some details about the car:
a. bbk throttle body
b. cheap POS intake lid with no egr hose port - just ordered an slp replacement that has the port. currentl;y the egr hose is just going to a breather that's currently building up with oil and probably backing up in the line.
c. borla exhaust system
d. dynatech supermaxx headers with cats
e. k&n air filter... of course
f. differential changed from a 3.47 to 4.10
g. it's never been tuned for the parts or differential change, my speedo's also off because of it, i'm thinking this may be a major factor in the problems. just can't find a tuning station nearby that's still opened...
now, on to the problems.
1. tires are feathering on the edges, tire pressure is at 35 psi, they're aftermarket - 285 front, 315 rear, medium profile on 17 inch rims. suspension is brand new, OEM replacement.
2. when i go over a bump or a pothole my car try's to turn in the direction it fell and i have to compensate. it would seem normal for any other car but my car and my old 98 trans am never did that before, the steering just seems less responsive and less tense than before.
3. the exhaust smells like gasoline, but my intake filter's fine and my check engine light is off. o2's were replaced in 2008 and i only use 93 octane fuel. i bought a new set of spark plugs but haven't installed them yet, i've tried fuel injector cleaner, didn't help.
4. it seems like i've lost some power and i don't roll back very quickly with the brakes off in neutral, even on steep hills, it used to be farther. differential fluid need changing maybe? it seems like there's some sort of drag on the car now.
5. park plugs for an ls1 with no inner engine modifications.... .040 or .050 gap, i've heard both, i bought ngk platinum .040's because their system recommended them but i could still return them if i need .050's.
6. my fuel efficiency has dropped to around 12 from 20 when i bought the car, i'm sure it's related to these other problems.
i think that's it. electrical systems are fine, and even if they weren't, that's the part i'm actually good at working with.
a. bbk throttle body
b. cheap POS intake lid with no egr hose port - just ordered an slp replacement that has the port. currentl;y the egr hose is just going to a breather that's currently building up with oil and probably backing up in the line.
c. borla exhaust system
d. dynatech supermaxx headers with cats
e. k&n air filter... of course
f. differential changed from a 3.47 to 4.10
g. it's never been tuned for the parts or differential change, my speedo's also off because of it, i'm thinking this may be a major factor in the problems. just can't find a tuning station nearby that's still opened...
now, on to the problems.
1. tires are feathering on the edges, tire pressure is at 35 psi, they're aftermarket - 285 front, 315 rear, medium profile on 17 inch rims. suspension is brand new, OEM replacement.
2. when i go over a bump or a pothole my car try's to turn in the direction it fell and i have to compensate. it would seem normal for any other car but my car and my old 98 trans am never did that before, the steering just seems less responsive and less tense than before.
3. the exhaust smells like gasoline, but my intake filter's fine and my check engine light is off. o2's were replaced in 2008 and i only use 93 octane fuel. i bought a new set of spark plugs but haven't installed them yet, i've tried fuel injector cleaner, didn't help.
4. it seems like i've lost some power and i don't roll back very quickly with the brakes off in neutral, even on steep hills, it used to be farther. differential fluid need changing maybe? it seems like there's some sort of drag on the car now.
5. park plugs for an ls1 with no inner engine modifications.... .040 or .050 gap, i've heard both, i bought ngk platinum .040's because their system recommended them but i could still return them if i need .050's.
6. my fuel efficiency has dropped to around 12 from 20 when i bought the car, i'm sure it's related to these other problems.
i think that's it. electrical systems are fine, and even if they weren't, that's the part i'm actually good at working with.
Last edited by TallgeeseIV; 02-12-2009 at 05:06 PM.
02-12-2009, 05:46 PM
#4
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You've been running it up the whole time. I added almost 400 extra miles on my odometer before I was able to have my speedo recalibrated (had to wait on my old tuner to get free time) and that was over a period of 2 weeks! I had realistically driven 300 miles max. OD show'd around 700 miles from when I got the gears in. I went from 2.73 to 3.73, so it was a big difference.
And your speedo being off wouldn't cause any tuning issues. Sounds like you just need a good tuner.
And your speedo being off wouldn't cause any tuning issues. Sounds like you just need a good tuner.
02-12-2009, 09:01 PM
#6
TECH Senior Member
Problems 1 and 2... You may need a wheel alignment...
If that doesn't fix it, may need new ball joints, A-arm bushings, and shocks...
Those all have to be inspected to determine which need replacement.
If that doesn't fix it, may need new ball joints, A-arm bushings, and shocks...
Those all have to be inspected to determine which need replacement.
02-13-2009, 12:11 AM
#7
Damn.
If you're lid has no hole for the AIR system intake DRILL ONE! Save what $100.
How do you know it's never been tuned? Either the exhaust is too rich for your taste or it actually is rich and the O2 sensor codes have been turned off.
I'm assuming the check engine light comes on when you start the car, bulb check, if not the bulb is blown or has been removed. These cars don't run long with raw exhaust and no check engine light.
It acts the way it does over potholes because it's not your other cars, the tires are wider, it's called trough pull. Thats even in the owners manual for my SS. Although it seems obvious any car is going to be unpredictable when hitting potholes.
Tires feathering--- get an alignment. I had to have my Z28 aligned 5 times by 3 different shops before some retired rocket scientist figured out the alignment rack.
Heres a hint on that alignment, watch your car. The tech should go right out for a test drive, put it on the rack, for over 5 minutes, and then go on another test drive.
If they take it to the rack, 10 minutes later drive it back around for you to pick up, you're about to be screwed, or legally robbed (they take your money having done nothing).
Feels like a drag on the car? it's not the diff fluid. Try jacking each wheel off the ground and spinning it by hand. May be a stuck caliper.
I'd like to hear more about the all new OEM replacement suspension, can you list the parts that consists of?
I'll put money on it that every single piece is not new or even touched.
The bottom line, sorting through all this mess. Your car I guess had some kind of suspension work done, the alignment is off, feathering tires, a dragging feeling, and the idea they replaced everything tells me someone has mislead you, shops like that typically don't know **** about alignments.
Change your fuel filter, make sure the check engine light self checks at start up.
Stop hitting potholes. You drive a 40,000 mile WS6 CETA and you obviously hit more than one pothole to come to the conclusion that it does something weird every time.
2002 never had EGR and you originally had 3.42 gears just as a FYI, we're all here to learn right.
Gap the plugs at .055 to .060, factory spec.
Also guessing by the 3.42 gear this car is a M6, without the correct speedo input the idle control and DFCO isn't goint to work properly, leading to hell who knows, leading to it needing to be corrected. It idles down weird doesn't it?
No more coffee at 1 am for me
I'm not trying to offend you, just being straight and to the point. It's a nonemotional reply to questions on an automotive forum.
If you're lid has no hole for the AIR system intake DRILL ONE! Save what $100.
How do you know it's never been tuned? Either the exhaust is too rich for your taste or it actually is rich and the O2 sensor codes have been turned off.
I'm assuming the check engine light comes on when you start the car, bulb check, if not the bulb is blown or has been removed. These cars don't run long with raw exhaust and no check engine light.
It acts the way it does over potholes because it's not your other cars, the tires are wider, it's called trough pull. Thats even in the owners manual for my SS. Although it seems obvious any car is going to be unpredictable when hitting potholes.
Tires feathering--- get an alignment. I had to have my Z28 aligned 5 times by 3 different shops before some retired rocket scientist figured out the alignment rack.
Heres a hint on that alignment, watch your car. The tech should go right out for a test drive, put it on the rack, for over 5 minutes, and then go on another test drive.
If they take it to the rack, 10 minutes later drive it back around for you to pick up, you're about to be screwed, or legally robbed (they take your money having done nothing).
Feels like a drag on the car? it's not the diff fluid. Try jacking each wheel off the ground and spinning it by hand. May be a stuck caliper.
I'd like to hear more about the all new OEM replacement suspension, can you list the parts that consists of?
I'll put money on it that every single piece is not new or even touched.
The bottom line, sorting through all this mess. Your car I guess had some kind of suspension work done, the alignment is off, feathering tires, a dragging feeling, and the idea they replaced everything tells me someone has mislead you, shops like that typically don't know **** about alignments.
Change your fuel filter, make sure the check engine light self checks at start up.
Stop hitting potholes. You drive a 40,000 mile WS6 CETA and you obviously hit more than one pothole to come to the conclusion that it does something weird every time.
2002 never had EGR and you originally had 3.42 gears just as a FYI, we're all here to learn right.
Gap the plugs at .055 to .060, factory spec.
Also guessing by the 3.42 gear this car is a M6, without the correct speedo input the idle control and DFCO isn't goint to work properly, leading to hell who knows, leading to it needing to be corrected. It idles down weird doesn't it?
No more coffee at 1 am for me
I'm not trying to offend you, just being straight and to the point. It's a nonemotional reply to questions on an automotive forum.
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02-13-2009, 01:05 AM
#8
Damn.
If you're lid has no hole for the AIR system intake DRILL ONE! Save what $100.
How do you know it's never been tuned? Either the exhaust is too rich for your taste or it actually is rich and the O2 sensor codes have been turned off.
I'm assuming the check engine light comes on when you start the car, bulb check, if not the bulb is blown or has been removed. These cars don't run long with raw exhaust and no check engine light.
It acts the way it does over potholes because it's not your other cars, the tires are wider, it's called trough pull. Thats even in the owners manual for my SS. Although it seems obvious any car is going to be unpredictable when hitting potholes.
Tires feathering--- get an alignment. I had to have my Z28 aligned 5 times by 3 different shops before some retired rocket scientist figured out the alignment rack.
Heres a hint on that alignment, watch your car. The tech should go right out for a test drive, put it on the rack, for over 5 minutes, and then go on another test drive.
If they take it to the rack, 10 minutes later drive it back around for you to pick up, you're about to be screwed, or legally robbed (they take your money having done nothing).
Feels like a drag on the car? it's not the diff fluid. Try jacking each wheel off the ground and spinning it by hand. May be a stuck caliper.
I'd like to hear more about the all new OEM replacement suspension, can you list the parts that consists of?
I'll put money on it that every single piece is not new or even touched.
The bottom line, sorting through all this mess. Your car I guess had some kind of suspension work done, the alignment is off, feathering tires, a dragging feeling, and the idea they replaced everything tells me someone has mislead you, shops like that typically don't know **** about alignments.
Change your fuel filter, make sure the check engine light self checks at start up.
Stop hitting potholes. You drive a 40,000 mile WS6 CETA and you obviously hit more than one pothole to come to the conclusion that it does something weird every time.
2002 never had EGR and you originally had 3.42 gears just as a FYI, we're all here to learn right.
Gap the plugs at .055 to .060, factory spec.
Also guessing by the 3.42 gear this car is a M6, without the correct speedo input the idle control and DFCO isn't goint to work properly, leading to hell who knows, leading to it needing to be corrected. It idles down weird doesn't it?
No more coffee at 1 am for me
I'm not trying to offend you, just being straight and to the point. It's a nonemotional reply to questions on an automotive forum.
If you're lid has no hole for the AIR system intake DRILL ONE! Save what $100.
How do you know it's never been tuned? Either the exhaust is too rich for your taste or it actually is rich and the O2 sensor codes have been turned off.
I'm assuming the check engine light comes on when you start the car, bulb check, if not the bulb is blown or has been removed. These cars don't run long with raw exhaust and no check engine light.
It acts the way it does over potholes because it's not your other cars, the tires are wider, it's called trough pull. Thats even in the owners manual for my SS. Although it seems obvious any car is going to be unpredictable when hitting potholes.
Tires feathering--- get an alignment. I had to have my Z28 aligned 5 times by 3 different shops before some retired rocket scientist figured out the alignment rack.
Heres a hint on that alignment, watch your car. The tech should go right out for a test drive, put it on the rack, for over 5 minutes, and then go on another test drive.
If they take it to the rack, 10 minutes later drive it back around for you to pick up, you're about to be screwed, or legally robbed (they take your money having done nothing).
Feels like a drag on the car? it's not the diff fluid. Try jacking each wheel off the ground and spinning it by hand. May be a stuck caliper.
I'd like to hear more about the all new OEM replacement suspension, can you list the parts that consists of?
I'll put money on it that every single piece is not new or even touched.
The bottom line, sorting through all this mess. Your car I guess had some kind of suspension work done, the alignment is off, feathering tires, a dragging feeling, and the idea they replaced everything tells me someone has mislead you, shops like that typically don't know **** about alignments.
Change your fuel filter, make sure the check engine light self checks at start up.
Stop hitting potholes. You drive a 40,000 mile WS6 CETA and you obviously hit more than one pothole to come to the conclusion that it does something weird every time.
2002 never had EGR and you originally had 3.42 gears just as a FYI, we're all here to learn right.
Gap the plugs at .055 to .060, factory spec.
Also guessing by the 3.42 gear this car is a M6, without the correct speedo input the idle control and DFCO isn't goint to work properly, leading to hell who knows, leading to it needing to be corrected. It idles down weird doesn't it?
No more coffee at 1 am for me
I'm not trying to offend you, just being straight and to the point. It's a nonemotional reply to questions on an automotive forum.
the lid is some cheap pos, i can't even find it for sale on any website, it's just black plastic that says "ls1" in red on the top, which may have been added. the new lid has already been shipped, so i'll deal with that money possibly lost and pretend i couldn't do it myself. helps me sleep at night, haha.
the owner i bought it from said it's never been tuned and the pontiac dealership told me it was the stock tuning set up, and refused to re-tune it for me. can i trust them? probably not, but i did become close to the mechanic after a few visits, i'd like to believe he didn't screw me.
i can't get the part numbers and brands for the suspension parts because pep boys inventory website is down currently. i'll check it periodically and post when i get em. their computer said they were new oem replacements though, for whatever that's worth.
the job was done at pep boys by my uncle who works there so i trust he didn't screw me. he's got 30+ year of experience or so, we discussed getting the alignment but i said no because i didn't have the money at the time, this was about a month ago. but they've been feathering since i bought them mid last year
you're probably right about the potholes, it's not like it careens out of control, it's just strange because i don't recall it happening with my old trans am, which had wheels almost as large as these. i'm just mentioning it to make sure it's not a power steering or suspension problem that's going to get worse if i don't fix it now.
you're also right about the dif gears. i dunno why 3.47 popped into my head but 3.42 sounds much more familiar from when i was discussing it with the dealership mechanic.
check engine light has been off since i replaced the illegal headers the car had before and got headers with cats, new o2 sensors, etc. i had all the work done, then had it inspected by the dealership exclusively, i'd like to believe they actually did make it legal, and i didn't smell gasoline in the exhaust back then. that was around march 2008.
and i was pretty sure the egr system was on 99 cars only too, i think i used the wrong term. it has an air pump or something... i don't really fully understand what it does. i had to replace all of it which was taken off by the original owner, and the computer was throwing codes saying it needed that, and wasn't getting an o2 reading, etc. again, that was in march.
thanks for the info on the spark plugs, and what do you mean by the car is an M6? Manual 6 speed? it is, if that's the case. and yes, it hangs at 1k rpm's for a second before dropping to idle at 700-800 every time i stop.
02-13-2009, 01:28 AM
#9
M6 is a manual trans, yes.
Thanks for not being offended.
It sounds like you know what you need to do already.
Anyway I need to get to bed. If I think of anything else I'll post it, but now it sounds like you already know what you need to do, just looking for further input.
I'm sure a few more people will post their thoughts in the next 24 hours.
Good luck getting it all back to normal.
Thanks for not being offended.
It sounds like you know what you need to do already.
Anyway I need to get to bed. If I think of anything else I'll post it, but now it sounds like you already know what you need to do, just looking for further input.
I'm sure a few more people will post their thoughts in the next 24 hours.
Good luck getting it all back to normal.
02-13-2009, 09:29 AM
#11
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Did you lower the car? Steering would be attributed to improper allignment, or if you lowered it you need bump steer tie rods. Baer seems to be the way to go. My 98 did the same thing but was lowered 1". Throws the whole system out of whack. Have you considered a tune? That would take care of the speedo miscalibration for you rear. Might even get you better gas mileage and more power.
Last edited by oberth1; 02-13-2009 at 09:34 AM.
02-13-2009, 10:06 AM
#12
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Here's my $.02:
Step #1. If you aren't going in for a warranty repair or basic remove/replace type thing, a good rule of thumb is to avoid the dealers. The good ones are very hard to find. In general, they are also much more expensive than other shops. Additionally, they just don't have the same tuning software that's available in the aftermarket scene. Your money would be better spent with one of our sponsors for that.
Fuel mileage down, pulls to one side, doesn't roll back like it used to, doesn't accelerate like it used to, feels like something is dragging. While those are subjective and you can get "used" to the speed of the car, I would suggest two things:
1. Check the brake caliper slide pins (for the floating caliper design). They get frozen up on these cars all the time (mine have done it at least 2-3 times). It might cause the brakes to drag some. Think someone mentioned this above as well.
2. Get the PCM retuned. You're smelling gas because of the headers (cats help, but won't eliminate this). Headers are a significant enough modification to render the stock PCM calibration inadequate...more often than not, they make the car run very rich and that can make the car feel sluggish. Since you need a tune anyway to correct your speedo, you can get a mail-order performance PCM tune for couple hundred bucks that will optimize the air/fuel ratio and increase performance and driveability.
A custom PCM tune is better, but also more expensive as it requires time on a dynomometer and additional manhours to get right.
Bump steer, tramlining, rear axle hop...these are common among cars with wide tires, cheap shocks, and solid rear axles. Good shocks and a proper alignment will help, but probably won't eliminate it. Shocks are an investment at $500+ and you may not be willing to do that.
The idle hanging can be corrected with the PCM tune as well.
Step #1. If you aren't going in for a warranty repair or basic remove/replace type thing, a good rule of thumb is to avoid the dealers. The good ones are very hard to find. In general, they are also much more expensive than other shops. Additionally, they just don't have the same tuning software that's available in the aftermarket scene. Your money would be better spent with one of our sponsors for that.
Fuel mileage down, pulls to one side, doesn't roll back like it used to, doesn't accelerate like it used to, feels like something is dragging. While those are subjective and you can get "used" to the speed of the car, I would suggest two things:
1. Check the brake caliper slide pins (for the floating caliper design). They get frozen up on these cars all the time (mine have done it at least 2-3 times). It might cause the brakes to drag some. Think someone mentioned this above as well.
2. Get the PCM retuned. You're smelling gas because of the headers (cats help, but won't eliminate this). Headers are a significant enough modification to render the stock PCM calibration inadequate...more often than not, they make the car run very rich and that can make the car feel sluggish. Since you need a tune anyway to correct your speedo, you can get a mail-order performance PCM tune for couple hundred bucks that will optimize the air/fuel ratio and increase performance and driveability.
A custom PCM tune is better, but also more expensive as it requires time on a dynomometer and additional manhours to get right.
Bump steer, tramlining, rear axle hop...these are common among cars with wide tires, cheap shocks, and solid rear axles. Good shocks and a proper alignment will help, but probably won't eliminate it. Shocks are an investment at $500+ and you may not be willing to do that.
The idle hanging can be corrected with the PCM tune as well.
02-13-2009, 10:44 AM
#13
Here's my $.02:
Step #1. If you aren't going in for a warranty repair or basic remove/replace type thing, a good rule of thumb is to avoid the dealers. The good ones are very hard to find. In general, they are also much more expensive than other shops. Additionally, they just don't have the same tuning software that's available in the aftermarket scene. Your money would be better spent with one of our sponsors for that.
Fuel mileage down, pulls to one side, doesn't roll back like it used to, doesn't accelerate like it used to, feels like something is dragging. While those are subjective and you can get "used" to the speed of the car, I would suggest two things:
1. Check the brake caliper slide pins (for the floating caliper design). They get frozen up on these cars all the time (mine have done it at least 2-3 times). It might cause the brakes to drag some. Think someone mentioned this above as well.
2. Get the PCM retuned. You're smelling gas because of the headers (cats help, but won't eliminate this). Headers are a significant enough modification to render the stock PCM calibration inadequate...more often than not, they make the car run very rich and that can make the car feel sluggish. Since you need a tune anyway to correct your speedo, you can get a mail-order performance PCM tune for couple hundred bucks that will optimize the air/fuel ratio and increase performance and driveability.
A custom PCM tune is better, but also more expensive as it requires time on a dynomometer and additional manhours to get right.
Bump steer, tramlining, rear axle hop...these are common among cars with wide tires, cheap shocks, and solid rear axles. Good shocks and a proper alignment will help, but probably won't eliminate it. Shocks are an investment at $500+ and you may not be willing to do that.
The idle hanging can be corrected with the PCM tune as well.
Step #1. If you aren't going in for a warranty repair or basic remove/replace type thing, a good rule of thumb is to avoid the dealers. The good ones are very hard to find. In general, they are also much more expensive than other shops. Additionally, they just don't have the same tuning software that's available in the aftermarket scene. Your money would be better spent with one of our sponsors for that.
Fuel mileage down, pulls to one side, doesn't roll back like it used to, doesn't accelerate like it used to, feels like something is dragging. While those are subjective and you can get "used" to the speed of the car, I would suggest two things:
1. Check the brake caliper slide pins (for the floating caliper design). They get frozen up on these cars all the time (mine have done it at least 2-3 times). It might cause the brakes to drag some. Think someone mentioned this above as well.
2. Get the PCM retuned. You're smelling gas because of the headers (cats help, but won't eliminate this). Headers are a significant enough modification to render the stock PCM calibration inadequate...more often than not, they make the car run very rich and that can make the car feel sluggish. Since you need a tune anyway to correct your speedo, you can get a mail-order performance PCM tune for couple hundred bucks that will optimize the air/fuel ratio and increase performance and driveability.
A custom PCM tune is better, but also more expensive as it requires time on a dynomometer and additional manhours to get right.
Bump steer, tramlining, rear axle hop...these are common among cars with wide tires, cheap shocks, and solid rear axles. Good shocks and a proper alignment will help, but probably won't eliminate it. Shocks are an investment at $500+ and you may not be willing to do that.
The idle hanging can be corrected with the PCM tune as well.
i have DEFINITELY considered a tune and have been looking for a place with a dyno nearby. just a few days ago i went to a place called gt automotive that specializes in lsx and muscle cars, and they were out of buisness... the closest place i can find that's a sponsor is in richmond, 2 hours away. i have some friends out there but i work 6-7 days a week so it's tough to find the time to go out, spend all day getting it tuned, and make the money to do it at the same time... but that's definitely what i want to get done.
it's not pulling to one side, just either side depending which side went lower, the only strange thing is it just started in the last 4 months or so, and i got the tires almost a year ago. i figured it was the suspension because it was bouncing a lot and my muffler was hitting the ground, which never used to happen. but new suspension did fix the muffler hitting the ground but the unstable steering is still there. my tie rods look fine, calipers are fine, i just replaced the brakes with ceramic pads a few weeks ago myself and the pins weren't seized so i'm not too worried about that.
sounds like everything i thought was correct, i'm glad you all gave me the input to trust myself.
1. tuning
2. alignment
i have a couple more questions:
1. my power steering fluid is leaking from under the cap, i replaced the cap but it's still leaking, doesn't appear anything has broken off. could that not being airtight cause a problem? it hasn't lost that much fluid, it's about 1 1/2" from the top.
2. my rotors aren't visually warped but they did work up some slight grooves from before i could afford the brake pads (i work in real estate, things weren't going too well until recently...) i'm sure that's affecting SOMETHING, i just don't know what, i plan on getting some drilled and slotted rotors soon anyway.
3. can somebody explain EXACTLY what the air pump does in my car? i've heard 2 things, one was that it pulls unburnt fuel from your exhaust and sends it back to the air intake to be reburnt. the second i heard was that it sends warm air to the cats to warm them up on a cold start or something? which makes no sense, i would think that would help for all of 5 minutes, which makes a $300 piece of equipment that weighs like 8 lbs totally worthless...
4. i haven't replaced my fuel filter... ever, don't know if the original owner ever did either, could that be a factor?
Last edited by TallgeeseIV; 02-13-2009 at 10:52 AM.
02-13-2009, 12:04 PM
#14
4. the fuel filter is almost never a problem, every one is incorrect in assuming replacing the filter will somehow fix or help fix problems i'm sorry to say. If the fuel filter were restricting fuel flow, you would notice it under load at wide open throttle when fuel flow is highest and would cause a fuel pressure drop. But at idle and light load conditions such as 70 mph on the highway there is no way the fuel filter is having any kind of impact. Not saying you should not replace the fuel filter, they're $5 easy to do and good maintanence but don't get your hopes up.
3. copied from gmhitech- The electric air-injection pump on all '98-'02 LS1 F-cars is located behind the driver-side headlight unit. It pumps air through a series of 3/4-inch rubber hoses and steel tubes to the exhaust manifolds/headers to aid catalytic converter light-off... laymans terms it pumps fresh air (containing oxygen) into the exhaust manifolds because there is always unburnt hydrocarbons in the exhaust, and because it is hot (1000+ deg. F) if you add air it will burn, this is good in reducing emissions. I'm not sure if the computer runs the air pump all the time or only when the car is cold, because when cold combustion efficiency is lower so there's more unburnt hydrocarbons in the exhaust that can be combusted by adding fresh air, then the cats convert that into CO2 & water. FYI, tampering or removing any emissions equipment is a felony, so the air pump isn't worth removing unless you're going to make it a dragstrip only car and you aren't driving it on the street.
What you're referring to about pulling unburnt fuel from the exhaust and sending it back to the intake is EGR- exhaust gas recirculation. The correct definition of EGR is recirculating a small bit of exhaust gas from the exhaust manifold, and the amount which is diverted is controlled by the EGR valve, and this is directed back into the intake, much like a PCV valve vents crankcase gas (not gasoline, gas as in air and oily vapor) back to the intake to be burned in the engine instead of vented to the atmosphere as pollution. The purpose of EGR however is the exhaust gas dilutes the air/fuel mixture going into the engine and helps to lower combustion temperatures, this is good for emissions (but bad for maximum horsepower) because higher combustion temps results in more nitrogen oxides NOx being produced from combustion which the cat. converter then has to handle.
2. brakes are fairly simple, at least anything is simple once you understand it. If you have warped rotors or the rotors aren't sitting true on the hub so they don't spin true (will wobble as they spin or have runout) then they'll rub up against the brake pads and cause vibrations, and possibly drag. So you need to have all the brake hardware in good condition. One thing to look at is the parking brake which are brake shoes that grab the inside drum portion of the rear rotor, they might be hanging up and you can judge this by jacking the rear off the ground and spinning each wheel, be aware you'll be spinning the mass of the rear axle and differential so it won't spin easy like the front wheel so it might be hard to tell. And if the brakes haven't been service properly, you could have hung up calipers, make sure the slide pins are greased. I did mine at 35k miles and my car is babied and all the caliper slide pins were dry. Also the wheel lugnuts holding the rim on also hold the rotor on, and it is very important to have the 5 lugnuts torqued as equally as possible. Having lugnut torque unequal will cause you're rotors to warp, you do not want a tire shop not even pep boys to zip your wheels on which an impact wrench! Invest in a quality torque wrench and torque them by hand, the spec is 100 lb-ft. otherwise you take your chances at that little problem compounding into a bigger one. and you say current rotors aren't visually warped, you won't be able to see with naked eye 0.005" runout, you need a dial caliper to measure it, more than 0.005" is definitely a problem, 0.003-0.005" they say is allowable but you want less than 0.003" (zero ideally of course).
1. mine seeps too, but just enough to wet the top of the resevoir, I never had to add fluid. As the power steering system builds up heat there will be a little bit of pressure in the resevoir so if the cap doesn't seal I suppose you can and would lose fluid as you describe, so make sure the cap, it's seal, and the resevoir neck is clean and free of burrs and tears. Buy a new cap or gasket for the cap if necessary, other than that don't know what else to tell you.
i have a stock 2002 camaro and it can get squirrely sometimes with bumps and potholes, and I have stock 275/40-17 tires. You have 285's on the front and 315' in the rear, and these cars have solid rear axle so I would expect it to be even more squirrley. now factor in you said you're tires (assuming the front tires) are feathering as in wearing uneven, which means you either take every corner too fast or your front end is out of alignment which will worsen the handling problem. And if you're rims aren't stock, check the backspacing on the rims that will also cause handling problems. fwiw unless you have to have 285's up front and 315's in the rear, for looks i guess, go with the stock 275/40-17 tire it'll be cheaper and handle as it's supposed to, and they're plenty wide enough, you're not gaining anything by going to a wider tire.
oh yeah, with the 285's up front and 315's in the rear, are you sure the feathering isn't the tire rubbing on the fenderwell wearing the tire away? This would also cause every other problem you mentioned- the apparent drag of the car not rolling, and crazy handling as you hit bumps the tires rubs the fenderwell. I thought you had to do some cutting of the bumpstops and fenderwell to get 315's to fit on the rear.
if i were you I would buy an economical set of tires from tire rack in the stock size of 275/40-17, get them mounted on your rims only if they're stock rims, get them balanced at pep boys would be good cause i think they do lifetime rebalancing. If you have some other type of rim, find out the backspacing and width and make sure it's correct for the f-body. Don't bother getting an alignment till this is done, and then or during that time have a competent shop go over your brakes checking every caliper for the slide pins being lubed and sliding freely, and check for rotor runout on every rotor. You may also have a front wheel bearing going out if you have vibration all the time, but that can be caused by other things so I would do what i said first and see what happens. If still a vibration then look into the front wheel hubs, they can be expensive, and don't let a shop take you for a ride because if you say you think maybe wheel hub then they may automatically say your right sure we;ll fix it you're paying for it (more money for them). same goes for the rotors & runout and brake calipers and pads- have them check and service them and don't be sold on the you need all new rotors, calipers and pads (because it's easier and more profitable for them to just replace everything)
3. copied from gmhitech- The electric air-injection pump on all '98-'02 LS1 F-cars is located behind the driver-side headlight unit. It pumps air through a series of 3/4-inch rubber hoses and steel tubes to the exhaust manifolds/headers to aid catalytic converter light-off... laymans terms it pumps fresh air (containing oxygen) into the exhaust manifolds because there is always unburnt hydrocarbons in the exhaust, and because it is hot (1000+ deg. F) if you add air it will burn, this is good in reducing emissions. I'm not sure if the computer runs the air pump all the time or only when the car is cold, because when cold combustion efficiency is lower so there's more unburnt hydrocarbons in the exhaust that can be combusted by adding fresh air, then the cats convert that into CO2 & water. FYI, tampering or removing any emissions equipment is a felony, so the air pump isn't worth removing unless you're going to make it a dragstrip only car and you aren't driving it on the street.
What you're referring to about pulling unburnt fuel from the exhaust and sending it back to the intake is EGR- exhaust gas recirculation. The correct definition of EGR is recirculating a small bit of exhaust gas from the exhaust manifold, and the amount which is diverted is controlled by the EGR valve, and this is directed back into the intake, much like a PCV valve vents crankcase gas (not gasoline, gas as in air and oily vapor) back to the intake to be burned in the engine instead of vented to the atmosphere as pollution. The purpose of EGR however is the exhaust gas dilutes the air/fuel mixture going into the engine and helps to lower combustion temperatures, this is good for emissions (but bad for maximum horsepower) because higher combustion temps results in more nitrogen oxides NOx being produced from combustion which the cat. converter then has to handle.
2. brakes are fairly simple, at least anything is simple once you understand it. If you have warped rotors or the rotors aren't sitting true on the hub so they don't spin true (will wobble as they spin or have runout) then they'll rub up against the brake pads and cause vibrations, and possibly drag. So you need to have all the brake hardware in good condition. One thing to look at is the parking brake which are brake shoes that grab the inside drum portion of the rear rotor, they might be hanging up and you can judge this by jacking the rear off the ground and spinning each wheel, be aware you'll be spinning the mass of the rear axle and differential so it won't spin easy like the front wheel so it might be hard to tell. And if the brakes haven't been service properly, you could have hung up calipers, make sure the slide pins are greased. I did mine at 35k miles and my car is babied and all the caliper slide pins were dry. Also the wheel lugnuts holding the rim on also hold the rotor on, and it is very important to have the 5 lugnuts torqued as equally as possible. Having lugnut torque unequal will cause you're rotors to warp, you do not want a tire shop not even pep boys to zip your wheels on which an impact wrench! Invest in a quality torque wrench and torque them by hand, the spec is 100 lb-ft. otherwise you take your chances at that little problem compounding into a bigger one. and you say current rotors aren't visually warped, you won't be able to see with naked eye 0.005" runout, you need a dial caliper to measure it, more than 0.005" is definitely a problem, 0.003-0.005" they say is allowable but you want less than 0.003" (zero ideally of course).
1. mine seeps too, but just enough to wet the top of the resevoir, I never had to add fluid. As the power steering system builds up heat there will be a little bit of pressure in the resevoir so if the cap doesn't seal I suppose you can and would lose fluid as you describe, so make sure the cap, it's seal, and the resevoir neck is clean and free of burrs and tears. Buy a new cap or gasket for the cap if necessary, other than that don't know what else to tell you.
i have a stock 2002 camaro and it can get squirrely sometimes with bumps and potholes, and I have stock 275/40-17 tires. You have 285's on the front and 315' in the rear, and these cars have solid rear axle so I would expect it to be even more squirrley. now factor in you said you're tires (assuming the front tires) are feathering as in wearing uneven, which means you either take every corner too fast or your front end is out of alignment which will worsen the handling problem. And if you're rims aren't stock, check the backspacing on the rims that will also cause handling problems. fwiw unless you have to have 285's up front and 315's in the rear, for looks i guess, go with the stock 275/40-17 tire it'll be cheaper and handle as it's supposed to, and they're plenty wide enough, you're not gaining anything by going to a wider tire.
oh yeah, with the 285's up front and 315's in the rear, are you sure the feathering isn't the tire rubbing on the fenderwell wearing the tire away? This would also cause every other problem you mentioned- the apparent drag of the car not rolling, and crazy handling as you hit bumps the tires rubs the fenderwell. I thought you had to do some cutting of the bumpstops and fenderwell to get 315's to fit on the rear.
if i were you I would buy an economical set of tires from tire rack in the stock size of 275/40-17, get them mounted on your rims only if they're stock rims, get them balanced at pep boys would be good cause i think they do lifetime rebalancing. If you have some other type of rim, find out the backspacing and width and make sure it's correct for the f-body. Don't bother getting an alignment till this is done, and then or during that time have a competent shop go over your brakes checking every caliper for the slide pins being lubed and sliding freely, and check for rotor runout on every rotor. You may also have a front wheel bearing going out if you have vibration all the time, but that can be caused by other things so I would do what i said first and see what happens. If still a vibration then look into the front wheel hubs, they can be expensive, and don't let a shop take you for a ride because if you say you think maybe wheel hub then they may automatically say your right sure we;ll fix it you're paying for it (more money for them). same goes for the rotors & runout and brake calipers and pads- have them check and service them and don't be sold on the you need all new rotors, calipers and pads (because it's easier and more profitable for them to just replace everything)
Last edited by 1 FMF; 02-13-2009 at 12:18 PM.
02-13-2009, 12:13 PM
#15
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1 FMF is correct about the air pump and EGR.
Also, if you're having trouble finding a local place to do the custom dyno tune, you have another option. Mail-order PCM tune. It's not as good as a dyno tune, but it's much cheaper. Only problem is that you'll have to mail off your PCM to get flashed...generally a 24 hour turnaround, but you'd still have the car down for 2-3 days.
You could rent a car for those couple of days for maybe $100 and still be far ahead of the custom dyno tune cost.
Also, if you're having trouble finding a local place to do the custom dyno tune, you have another option. Mail-order PCM tune. It's not as good as a dyno tune, but it's much cheaper. Only problem is that you'll have to mail off your PCM to get flashed...generally a 24 hour turnaround, but you'd still have the car down for 2-3 days.
You could rent a car for those couple of days for maybe $100 and still be far ahead of the custom dyno tune cost.
02-13-2009, 12:25 PM
#16
forgot to mention, what i was originally going to say actually,
rear end ratio of 3.42 to 4.10 is 4.10/3.42 = 1.1988
so if you drive 100 miles you're odometer will register 119.8 miles driven.
the numbers were a little over for the guy going from 2.73 to 3.73 gears,
that's 1.366 so for 300 miles it would be 410 not 700.
changing the rear gear ratio should only affect your speedometer and odomoter, it will not cause engine problems, have nothing to do with idle, and especially on a manual transmission car. Maybe on an automatic where the computer for the transmission has the shifts programmed off of a specific gear ratio so the shifting may be less than optimal.
rear end ratio of 3.42 to 4.10 is 4.10/3.42 = 1.1988
so if you drive 100 miles you're odometer will register 119.8 miles driven.
the numbers were a little over for the guy going from 2.73 to 3.73 gears,
that's 1.366 so for 300 miles it would be 410 not 700.
changing the rear gear ratio should only affect your speedometer and odomoter, it will not cause engine problems, have nothing to do with idle, and especially on a manual transmission car. Maybe on an automatic where the computer for the transmission has the shifts programmed off of a specific gear ratio so the shifting may be less than optimal.
02-13-2009, 01:46 PM
#17
ok, well i definitely have the electric air injection pump, not egr.
there's no vibration when handling and the front wheels spin smoothly, no faint grinding or hangups, i'm not too worried, i plan on getting some performance rotors in the next month or so anyway. the torque wrench is a good idea, i'll pick one up tonight most likely.
the rims are Torque Thrust M series black/silver lip, 17x9 in the front, 17x11 in the rear, the rims and tires are primarily for looks.
the tires are feathering on the outer and inner edges on all 4 but none of them ever contact the wheel wells, i figured it was due to under inflation, they were around 25 psi when i filled them again a month ago, it's possible i've fixed it now by filling them to 35 again, i just can't tell because they're already feathered... the tire walls say max ps1 44, i'm pretty sure you shouldn't fill them to max but what is the correct psi? i heard 37 at one time.
i didn't think the differential change was causing an engine problem. but the car's been through a lot of other changes, the original owner was making it a drag car, he put track use only pacesetter headers on it, disconnected the o2 sensors, cats, everything, then removed the air injection system, i had to replace all of it after i bought the car and i have no intention of removing them again myself. the car does have a set of headers on it now, borla exhaust, different throttle body, etc. i need the tuning to make sure the o2's and cats are all working properly.
i just replaced the power steering cap yesterday and it's still leaking, but i figured it was the pressure built up from the heat.
i'm going to change the fuel filter today anyway, just for maintenance sake.
i'd prefer to get the dyno tuning, my job requires a lot of driving, all over the place and i can't afford to be without a car for more than a day right now.
thank you for all the input, you all are making this a lot easier for me to deal with.
there's no vibration when handling and the front wheels spin smoothly, no faint grinding or hangups, i'm not too worried, i plan on getting some performance rotors in the next month or so anyway. the torque wrench is a good idea, i'll pick one up tonight most likely.
the rims are Torque Thrust M series black/silver lip, 17x9 in the front, 17x11 in the rear, the rims and tires are primarily for looks.
the tires are feathering on the outer and inner edges on all 4 but none of them ever contact the wheel wells, i figured it was due to under inflation, they were around 25 psi when i filled them again a month ago, it's possible i've fixed it now by filling them to 35 again, i just can't tell because they're already feathered... the tire walls say max ps1 44, i'm pretty sure you shouldn't fill them to max but what is the correct psi? i heard 37 at one time.
i didn't think the differential change was causing an engine problem. but the car's been through a lot of other changes, the original owner was making it a drag car, he put track use only pacesetter headers on it, disconnected the o2 sensors, cats, everything, then removed the air injection system, i had to replace all of it after i bought the car and i have no intention of removing them again myself. the car does have a set of headers on it now, borla exhaust, different throttle body, etc. i need the tuning to make sure the o2's and cats are all working properly.
i just replaced the power steering cap yesterday and it's still leaking, but i figured it was the pressure built up from the heat.
i'm going to change the fuel filter today anyway, just for maintenance sake.
i'd prefer to get the dyno tuning, my job requires a lot of driving, all over the place and i can't afford to be without a car for more than a day right now.
thank you for all the input, you all are making this a lot easier for me to deal with.
02-13-2009, 02:52 PM
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Proper cold inflation pressure is listed on a placard inside the drivers door jamb or maybe on the door itself (don't remember now!). I believe it's 30 psi. Most folks seem to run 30-36 cold and inflate to 40-42 for autocross. You shouldn't run a tire at maximum inflation on a regular basis because it will wear and ride poorly. Over-inflation is dangerous. I personally run mine at 30 for normal driving and 40F/29R for autocross.
The power steering fluid will overflow if it gets too hot...but that typically only happens during racing use (sustained high rpm). If it's just a little bit coming out, then I wouldn't worry too much about it. I don't think that seal works so well. Mine leaks a little and has for years. I just clean it off during the oil changes.
The power steering fluid will overflow if it gets too hot...but that typically only happens during racing use (sustained high rpm). If it's just a little bit coming out, then I wouldn't worry too much about it. I don't think that seal works so well. Mine leaks a little and has for years. I just clean it off during the oil changes.
02-13-2009, 03:03 PM
#19
Remove your AIR system. That can be tuned out, go get a dyno tune by an aftermarket shop (see sponsors) in your area. This will also fix the speedo/odo issue, you are putting more miles on the odo than the car, and quick, hurting resale if that matters to you. A good tune will also help, if not fix, the fuel smell, and MPG too. Running rich long term will also kill your cats so get this done.
Get an alignment by a shop you trust, have them check the condition of the suspension, to make sure it will hold an alignment. Get before and after specs printed. Search alignment specs on here for the preferred settings, which are slightly more aggressive than OEM.
Do not do drilled/slotted rotors. It's cosmetic and will only hurt rotor longevity. Get some good quality blanks like Centric or Brembo. If you must have fancy, grab some ATEs from Strano. I prefer Hawk HPS pads myself.
Change your fuel filter, period, every 15-30k miles. Cheap insurance against running poorly and wiping out the pump. Fuel filters are often a problem if you never change them, especially on higher power cars that are fuel hungry.
Once you fix the problems, your first upgrade should be shocks. If you can do it now, you'll need an alignment after so no need to pay for it twice. Shocks make these cars better, in every way, any time the car is moving.
Your plugs are probably ok, though you can check one to make sure. These cars have good ignition systems and are not typically a problem area at all. If you must replace them, I recommend the factory plugs if you burn a lot of miles.
I personally would (and did) start changing out all fluids once you get the issues worked out. Put new coolant, flush the system. Then rear diff and tranny, pick your synthetic. Then PS and brake, it WILL make a difference.
Get an alignment by a shop you trust, have them check the condition of the suspension, to make sure it will hold an alignment. Get before and after specs printed. Search alignment specs on here for the preferred settings, which are slightly more aggressive than OEM.
Do not do drilled/slotted rotors. It's cosmetic and will only hurt rotor longevity. Get some good quality blanks like Centric or Brembo. If you must have fancy, grab some ATEs from Strano. I prefer Hawk HPS pads myself.
Change your fuel filter, period, every 15-30k miles. Cheap insurance against running poorly and wiping out the pump. Fuel filters are often a problem if you never change them, especially on higher power cars that are fuel hungry.
Once you fix the problems, your first upgrade should be shocks. If you can do it now, you'll need an alignment after so no need to pay for it twice. Shocks make these cars better, in every way, any time the car is moving.
Your plugs are probably ok, though you can check one to make sure. These cars have good ignition systems and are not typically a problem area at all. If you must replace them, I recommend the factory plugs if you burn a lot of miles.
I personally would (and did) start changing out all fluids once you get the issues worked out. Put new coolant, flush the system. Then rear diff and tranny, pick your synthetic. Then PS and brake, it WILL make a difference.
02-13-2009, 03:19 PM
#20
Proper cold inflation pressure is listed on a placard inside the drivers door jamb or maybe on the door itself (don't remember now!). I believe it's 30 psi. Most folks seem to run 30-36 cold and inflate to 40-42 for autocross. You shouldn't run a tire at maximum inflation on a regular basis because it will wear and ride poorly. Over-inflation is dangerous. I personally run mine at 30 for normal driving and 40F/29R for autocross.
The power steering fluid will overflow if it gets too hot...but that typically only happens during racing use (sustained high rpm). If it's just a little bit coming out, then I wouldn't worry too much about it. I don't think that seal works so well. Mine leaks a little and has for years. I just clean it off during the oil changes.
The power steering fluid will overflow if it gets too hot...but that typically only happens during racing use (sustained high rpm). If it's just a little bit coming out, then I wouldn't worry too much about it. I don't think that seal works so well. Mine leaks a little and has for years. I just clean it off during the oil changes.
Remove your AIR system. That can be tuned out, go get a dyno tune by an aftermarket shop (see sponsors) in your area. This will also fix the speedo/odo issue, you are putting more miles on the odo than the car, and quick, hurting resale if that matters to you. A good tune will also help, if not fix, the fuel smell, and MPG too. Running rich long term will also kill your cats so get this done.
Get an alignment by a shop you trust, have them check the condition of the suspension, to make sure it will hold an alignment. Get before and after specs printed. Search alignment specs on here for the preferred settings, which are slightly more aggressive than OEM.
Do not do drilled/slotted rotors. It's cosmetic and will only hurt rotor longevity. Get some good quality blanks like Centric or Brembo. If you must have fancy, grab some ATEs from Strano. I prefer Hawk HPS pads myself.
Change your fuel filter, period, every 15-30k miles. Cheap insurance against running poorly and wiping out the pump. Fuel filters are often a problem if you never change them, especially on higher power cars that are fuel hungry.
Once you fix the problems, your first upgrade should be shocks. If you can do it now, you'll need an alignment after so no need to pay for it twice. Shocks make these cars better, in every way, any time the car is moving.
Your plugs are probably ok, though you can check one to make sure. These cars have good ignition systems and are not typically a problem area at all. If you must replace them, I recommend the factory plugs if you burn a lot of miles.
I personally would (and did) start changing out all fluids once you get the issues worked out. Put new coolant, flush the system. Then rear diff and tranny, pick your synthetic. Then PS and brake, it WILL make a difference.
Get an alignment by a shop you trust, have them check the condition of the suspension, to make sure it will hold an alignment. Get before and after specs printed. Search alignment specs on here for the preferred settings, which are slightly more aggressive than OEM.
Do not do drilled/slotted rotors. It's cosmetic and will only hurt rotor longevity. Get some good quality blanks like Centric or Brembo. If you must have fancy, grab some ATEs from Strano. I prefer Hawk HPS pads myself.
Change your fuel filter, period, every 15-30k miles. Cheap insurance against running poorly and wiping out the pump. Fuel filters are often a problem if you never change them, especially on higher power cars that are fuel hungry.
Once you fix the problems, your first upgrade should be shocks. If you can do it now, you'll need an alignment after so no need to pay for it twice. Shocks make these cars better, in every way, any time the car is moving.
Your plugs are probably ok, though you can check one to make sure. These cars have good ignition systems and are not typically a problem area at all. If you must replace them, I recommend the factory plugs if you burn a lot of miles.
I personally would (and did) start changing out all fluids once you get the issues worked out. Put new coolant, flush the system. Then rear diff and tranny, pick your synthetic. Then PS and brake, it WILL make a difference.