mikes98z

iTrader: (9)

I wanted to upgrade my valve train a little while the intake is off the car. I dont have the cash for cam and lifters yet but I was thinking of putting in some 1.6RR and new pushrods.

Will I need to swap springs now or can I wait until I put in a new cam and lifters later this year.

I have heard about a 10-15hp increase.

My money is going into longtubes and a converter first.

Thanks
Mike

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

You will definitely need to upgrade to at LEAST LT4 springs. Putting 1.6 rockers on stock springs is a no-no.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

+1. And if you are planning on putting in a cam any time soon, buy NSA rr's and pick up some chromemoly pr's and some guideplates. Then when the time comes, you can just upgrade the springs and slide in the cam.

Elliott's94Z

iTrader: (12)

+2 def upgrade the valve springs. Look into some Trickflow PR through Summit or Smith Brothers.

mikes98z

iTrader: (9)

Thanks guys!

sepno77

iTrader: (5)

sorry to steal ur thread but i think this might help me and others. how hard are changing the valve springs cause honestly iv prity much done all the work on my car but kinda scared of this one. i don't want to drop a valve and have to pull the heads. whats the easiest and safest way to do this job?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Changing springs while the heads are on the car is not fun, but it definitely beats pulling the heads. It is not a difficult job if you have the right spring compressor tool and you take your time. Use rags to make sure that you don't drop anything down the heads. Use a magnetic pick up tool to remove the locks so you don't drop them.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...e-springs.html

Go to post #3.

sepno77

iTrader: (5)

ya thats what i thought. i was just wondering if there was another way. i was thinking of buying the LE2 cam then later getting the heads ported but i think ill just wait and do everything together at the same time and have loyed fix up my heads so all i gotta do is just put them in and be good to go.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

changing the valve springs is a PITA with the heads still on especially with a dual coil spring, only tool I could find that would grip the inner spring was a scissor/hedgeclipper type the wouldn't allow me to hold onto the spring while I compressed it. ended up hanging a spring shoot out on me and almost shoot my eye out. did end up getting a nice scar across my eyebrow from it

95z07

iTrader: (1)

hi, look up crane cams part number 99473 at jegs.com. i bought this tool to change my springs and the tool made this job a breeze. i used the air pressure in the cylinder through the spark plug hole to hold the valves in place and tapped the retainer a few times lightly to unseat the keepers. this tool would be worth twice the price or more. see ya

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Many people are scared that they will drop a valve, but truth be told, it's IMPOSSIBLE to drop a valve and lose it entirely. The stroke of the engine on a stock LT1 (3.48") is not long enough to fully swallow a valve, leaving the valve stem in the guide. IMO, you should do it with each piston at TDC. That will give you enough play in the valve stem to get the keepers on while the top of the piston keeps the valve suspended. If for some reason you don't have the piston at TDC and it falls in, you have a good chance to get it back if you GENTLY turn the motor by hand, pushing the valve up.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

that tools looks like it'd make doing it very easy but god damn that bitch is expensive for the simplicity of it

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

If your @ TDC, how far down will the valve drop on these LT1s? Will there still be enough room to install the retainers & keepers with the spring compressed? I've down spring changes before, but if the valve drops even a 1/16" or so down, its a bitch getting the keepers back in, unless you have the spring compressed a bunch, so i had to use the rope trick to keep the valves firmly in place.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

a magnetic pickup tool goes a LONG way when doing valve springs

if the cylinder is at TDC it will barely fall any but you will need to pull the valve back to tdc to install locks. the valve itself actually holds up at full travel fairly well since the valve is made to be airtight the seals around it work like a vacuum

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

True, you might not even realized that it dropped. And you will have more than enough room to put the locks back in with the spring compressed. I did it with no compressed air and with the piston at TDC. Once you get passed the first two or three springs, you'll get the hang of it and the rest will follow suit.