FastKat

iTrader: (10)

How much clearance do you need between the stock manifolds an other parts, such as the unibody frame rails, brake lines, etc?

Is this enough? Ignore those brown wires, they will be taken out. I think the only real problem is the flange. You really need to look at both views to get a good sense of where everything is.







I know it's kind of tough to tell fromt he pictures. I wish I could find a set of tubular headers for the C6 Corvette that bolt up to the stock exhaust system. If I could find those, I could cut off the flanges, rotate them 90 degrees, and weld them back on. I think that would solve my problem.

Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks, -Dave

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

Little help here!

Rodder

iTrader: (2)

I have 1/4" between my left header and my steering box., but a lot of people run with less than that.

My gut says at least 1/2" to brake lines, preferably a full inch.

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

The more I think about it, I can pretty easily make a small steel heat shield for the brake lines.

I am worried about the heat, but also about the stud hitting the chassis when the engine torques on its rubber mounts. Think that will be an issue? How much do I need to allow for engine movement?

lsxyj

iTrader: (1)

hey just have uncle buck notch the frame for and put a small piece of pipe in to make a lil more room for the stud to clear

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I would feel better if there was at lease 1/2" to 1" of space, You could try putting some of the CoolMat on the frame and other parts. When I had my stock f-Body manifolds, that big triangle Flange came close to my Brake's P-Valve (maybe 1/2"). ran with it like that till I got Header.

From looking at that flange, it looks like you might even have problems trying to tighten the nut on to the flange bolt. Have you looked into trying to reweld the flange to give you more room or a different manifold ?

If your using solid or poly mount it wouldn't move too much, but I'll like to see at lease 1" for both heat and movement (like slipping your hand in between)

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

On my 6.0 in my 55 sedan, I used the stock cast manifolds.
The pass fits w/ a bunch of clearance.
The dr side was the problem. I had the machine shop "angle mill" the head side flange. I took .150" off the bottom, and none off the top. Fits like a glove, as the manifold is now rolled away from the steer gear. If I had to do it again, I'd do .150" bottom, and .060 to.100" off the top, for even more clearance...
Next, I am milling off the heat shield bosses, and having them ceramic coated. The ceramic coating will reduce under hood temps, considerably.

Brake lines?? Why not re-rout them?

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

Man, Uncle Buck would be all too eager to chop that frame rail up. I would like to avoid it if I could to keep the install as clean as possible.

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

I am most concerned about the exhaust flange that will bolt up to the manifold flange, and that bolt will be pretty close. From what I remember, I do think I will have about 1/2 inch, but that's it. That stupid wire in the picture makes things a little confusing. I should have just pulled it out earlier.

No other stock manifolds worked - I think I literally tried them all. If I could get my hands on a set of shorty Corvette headers, I could get the flanges cut off and rotated 90 degrees. I am not sure about cutting the flanges off the cast iron manifold and trying to weld them back on... I hear you get into warping and cracking issues as you heat and especially cool the piece.

I will keep the cool mat in mind. I wonder if I could make a little heat shield and put it in there?

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

That's a really good idea. Did you need special shims or washers when you tightened up the manifolds on the heads?

I was also thinking about grinding some of the corner off that oval flange.

I don't want to make more work for myself. Rerouting brake lines sounds like a pain in the butt. The only thing I can do properly with a tubing bender is **** myself off!

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

That should be enough clearance with poly engine mounts. I don't know with rubber mounts. Angle milling the exhaust is probably a good approach to gain more clearance. There is the clearance you need and the clearance you want.

You absolutely need to move that brake line. I have similar issues on my swap and moved all the lines.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

All I did to bolt it up was to file the holes so they were perpendicular to the head. I also marked the head, using the gasket as a template, so I would be sure that the ports lined up.
I'm now milling off the heat shield "nubs", polishing the ridges off, and getting them cleaned for ceramic coating.

leonpiper69

iTrader: (3)

the motor torques to the pass side anyway, so that shouldnt be a problem cuz if anything that would help it get further away and like the other dude said, with poly mounts she aitn really gonna budge.

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

I really don't want to mess with the brake lines. I would angle-mill the manifolds first so the collector flange pulled in closer to the engine.

What kind of manifolds did you have - cast iron or steel? Did you try exhaust-wrap? How about a heat shield?

I guess you experienced brake fade?

BTW, I am not running poly engine mounts... I still have the rubber insulators.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Yes the engine does troque to the passenger side in a clockwise rotation (if viewing it from the back) and if it just rotated from the passenger side mount only it, It might not create any problems, but since it will rotate around its center crank shift, anything is hanging outwards and/or below the cranks centerline on the drive side, it will move up and and to the driver side 1st.. just something to look at.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

I put and LS motor in a 240z, a fairly common swap. Standard practice is to move the brake lines when moving the fuel lines. So I had some precedent. I moved the lines first, so don't know what problems would have happened otherwise.

From what I have read, boiling brake fluid doesn't just fade, the brakes just stop working. Hard to tell from the pics, but it sure looks like that one loop goes right up to the flange. Sure you want to risk it?

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

How close were your brake lines to your exhaust? Were the lines close to the exhaust manifold, header, or exhaust pipe?

Maybe I can bend the lines around a little. The one that runs down the frame rail doesn't bother me so much. It is the one that makes the loop. Maybe I can bend it away from the manifold altogether.