Manual Transmission - Help bleading clutch.

I found where the clutch line goes into the bellhousing. It doesn't have a 'screw' or 'nut' like I anticipated to, press clutch,unscrew,rescrew,depress clutch. So how do I blead it now? And the clutch fluid just goes into the master cylinder, same as brake fluid. Right?

I have never blead a clutch before, and frankly didn't even know you had to.

not sure on the older ones, but my 98, the bleader screw is "in" the bell housing.. there's just enough room to get a little socket in there. (space around the housing) i think it may be a 10 or a 13mm. i don't remember.

the fluid should go in the slave cylinder resevior. it looks like a smaller master cyclinder closer to the fender.. at least that's where it is on the 98.. you "can" do it yourself... there's a writeup on installuniversity how to make a bleeding hole through the floor board for it.

or you can use the assisstance of a buddy

My name is decieving, I have an 01 lol. but anyhow. So a 10 or 13mm? I'll see what I can do when my gf gets here to help. Just to make sure, the line that goes in about midway up on the driver side of the trans is the correct line right?

yes. that goes to your slave.

basically, climb under there, feel around and you'll find it. there's a hole there for the socket. you may prefer to use a shallow socket. because room is rather limited right there..

straight from the write up...

One of the more difficult things about a T56 is accessing the bleeder screw. You cannot see it without a mirror, so you must rely on feel. If you are beneath the car and you are looking at the transmission where the master cylinder line connects to the slave cylinder, reach straight upward. At the very top of the transmission you will feel a hex-shaped rod about two inches in length. That is the bleeder screw, which comes directly from the slave cylinder.

To bleed the system, you will need a 7/16th” socket, thin-walled, in ¼ drive. It would behoove you to use a few swivels and extensions. I also highly recommend taping the socket to the extension/swivel/etc. If for some reason you drop the socket, it will end up at the bottom of the bellhousing and you will have a hell of a time fishing it out.

If you plan to bleed traditionally, you will need two people. One under the car opening and tightening the bleeder screw, and another in the car operating the pedal.

If you are not squeamish about cutting into your car, you can make traditional bleeding a one man job. Underneath the car, do your best to put a dent in the transmission tunnel, straight across from the bleeder screw, with a punch. Get into the car and pull back the carpet around the pedals, and cut a small ‘access square’ so that you can also fold back the plastic, foam-lined piece beneath the carpet. Under that you will find the dent you made. With a 1” holesaw, cut a small part of the tunnel out. Now, with a 7/16” socket and a few extensions, you can reach the bleeder while being in the car! From here you can operate the pedal with your hand and use your other hand to tighten/loosen the screw. When you are done, simply put a piece of duct tape over the hole and recover with the carpet. It does not introduce any more noise into the cabinet.

Here is what the hole looks like (I had to drill mine a couple times to get it right

K. I'll give it a shot. She is on her way, I'll post up the results.
Oh sweet, thanks alot. That will help a bunch.

Edit: Nevermind I figured it out.

Will dropping the tranny crossmember give a little more room to get up in there??

straight from the write up...

One of the more difficult things about a T56 is accessing the bleeder screw. You cannot see it without a mirror, so you must rely on feel. If you are beneath the car and you are looking at the transmission where the master cylinder line connects to the slave cylinder, reach straight upward. At the very top of the transmission you will feel a hex-shaped rod about two inches in length. That is the bleeder screw, which comes directly from the slave cylinder.

To bleed the system, you will need a 7/16th” socket, thin-walled, in ¼ drive. It would behoove you to use a few swivels and extensions. I also highly recommend taping the socket to the extension/swivel/etc. If for some reason you drop the socket, it will end up at the bottom of the bellhousing and you will have a hell of a time fishing it out.

If you plan to bleed traditionally, you will need two people. One under the car opening and tightening the bleeder screw, and another in the car operating the pedal.

If you are not squeamish about cutting into your car, you can make traditional bleeding a one man job. Underneath the car, do your best to put a dent in the transmission tunnel, straight across from the bleeder screw, with a punch. Get into the car and pull back the carpet around the pedals, and cut a small ‘access square’ so that you can also fold back the plastic, foam-lined piece beneath the carpet. Under that you will find the dent you made. With a 1” holesaw, cut a small part of the tunnel out. Now, with a 7/16” socket and a few extensions, you can reach the bleeder while being in the car! From here you can operate the pedal with your hand and use your other hand to tighten/loosen the screw. When you are done, simply put a piece of duct tape over the hole and recover with the carpet. It does not introduce any more noise into the cabinet.

Here is what the hole looks like (I had to drill mine a couple times to get it right

Get a remote bleeder next time you do a clutch and be done with it.:D

I got a mityvac. It worked good, "i guess" not much air really came out. Then again I wasn't expecting much. It was def alot easier than doing it manually.

I got a mityvac. It worked good, "i guess" not much air really came out. Then again I wasn't expecting much. It was def alot easier than doing it manually.

Was there a bunch of old, dirty, dark fluid that came out though?

And I was wondering if dropping the tranny crossmember would make a little more room to get to the bleeder, anyone know?

Was there a bunch of old, dirty, dark fluid that came out though?

And I was wondering if dropping the tranny crossmember would make a little more room to get to the bleeder, anyone know?

I've never needed to drop the crossmember and have never heard of anyone needing to. The bleeder screw and the braided master line are pretty far in front of the crossmember and higher on the transmission.

Unless you mean pulling the crossmember so that the transmission drops down a little bit away from the tunnel.

I've never needed to drop the crossmember and have never heard of anyone needing to. The bleeder screw and the braided master line are pretty far in front of the crossmember and higher on the transmission.

Unless you mean pulling the crossmember so that the transmission drops down a little bit away from the tunnel.

Yeah that's what I meant, just to get a little more room underneath the tunnel. Although, it might not be much since the bleeder is toward the front so it's close to the pivot point and won't move much even if the back drops down some.

I just bled the clutch and the bleeder was pretty easy to get to...all that "right combination of swivels and extensions" stuff is BS. One 11mm or 7/16 socket and one ratchet are all you need. Fit the socket onto the bleeder screw then fit the ratchet onto the socket and bleed away! I used a motive powerbleeder but a mityvac will work I'm sure.

The easiest way of bleeding the clutch I have found is a LPP Remote Bleeder. Best $ I've spent on this car. Too bad it takes trans removal to install...:(

I got a mityvac. It worked good, "i guess" not much air really came out. Then again I wasn't expecting much. It was def alot easier than doing it manually.

Yes it is. The mityvac gets the air out fast too.

Yea a bunch of nasty fluid came out.