svaras

Hi, I´m searching info for my project.
It´s a ****** MB with a 5.3 vortec + TH350 + Dana 300 T case.

Since the low hood of the MB will not acomodate the tall LM7, I´m thinking on swaping a Ls1 intake & oil pan. From what I read, that will cut down like 6 inches in the total height of the engine.
Question is......
I think I´ll also need to relocate the alternator, do I need to change the water pump to a LS type, in order to use the LS bracket for the Alt/PS pump ??
By the way, I already have the LM7

This is my north.....the idea is to built a CLONE of this Jeep, but with a V8 (this one has a V6)

Tig

I cant answer your question but, DAAAAYUM thats a very nice lookin ******.
That with a LS would be sick.

jsmcortina

You can fit the LS1 intake to motor (I have.) The top water outlet on the water pump is very close but with a little hammering and removal of the cruise-tab on the throttle linkage it worked. (I've since decided to convert my pump have the water outlet at the front.) Once you've done this you have to move the alternator, or the drive belt would go straight across the throttle body.

From what I've read here, the belts on the car engines are 3/4" closer to the block than truck engines.
So... if you used a car alternator bracket you would need to change water pump, crank pulley and probably the ribbed idler (?)

See "Third gen winter project" for some pictures of water pumps and stuff.

I'm sticking with the truck pump as I already bought an SFI damper in truck pattern! So I'll make my own alternator bracket to put it in a sensible place.

hope that helps.

James

avmechanic

The tall truck intake will fit. I just hung my 4.8 LR4 in my CJ2A last night and I left the truck intake on. It is not as tall as you may think. If you used a traditional smallblock with a four barrel intake, carb and air cleaner it would be every bit as tall or taller than the truck intake. I am going to leave the engine cover off though as it gives me an extra 1 1/2" hood clearance. I will be working on it today again so I will bring my camera and take some pictures of how it fits. I am running a SM 465 4 speed with dana 18 behind it as well. It is looking like I will have some decent room for a Rad as well. The deep truck oil pan is a little low though. I am thinking of running an F body or Hummer h3 pan to gain 2 to 3 inches of clearance underneath. Once I start to get some progress on my swap I will start a thread with some pictures to follow. Nice Jeep by the way.
Greg

jsmcortina

The truck intake is about six inches taller than the LS1 intake, I need that in my car install.

It is a pain that the truck oil pans have the filter mounted lower than on the car ones - I was going to have three inches chopped out of the bottom but it won't work due to the filter. Will have to go F-body.

James

svaras

Wow, very interested in your project !!!!!!
Mmm, I read this late, about 20 minutes ago I bought the LS1 intake with fuel rails & injectors (28) at ebay.
I think I better wait to get the engine (down to Chile) and play around with it on the CJ, before taking the next decission.
Are you running the stock suspension ??
I´ll use SOA with waggy spring on mine.

lsxyj

iTrader: (1)

very cool jeep i used a vette batwing oil pan on my wrangler just cut part of one wing off to clear driveshaft

avmechanic

Here is a link to my Jeep build on another site. http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60125 I am using a 4 1/2" SUA Rubicon Express lift for a 80's CJ. I am also using a narrow track Dana 30 front axle and offset two piece shaft Dana 44 rear. Here are some pictures to my engine mock up in the chassis.

I don't think I could really install the engine any higher in the chassis as the rest of the driveline can not be installed any higher. The tranny and transfer case is already poking through the floor. I could angle the tranny/transfer case down a little more but the engine does not need to be any higher. I could also go with a more shallow oil pan to gain some ground clearance but it may not be too big of a deal. Hopefully some of this info will help you out.
Greg

svaras

Excelent info, just what I was looking for.
It looks perfect to me, as you said, maybe the f body oil pan will be better.
So you just boxed the CJ2A frame right ??
I was planing on adapting a CJ7 frame that I have, but maybe I´ll take your route.
Thanks

avmechanic

I did box the original frame. I added 1/8" plate to the inside from front to back even over top of the original boxing. I also added another 1/8" layer from the front engine area half way to the back stopping past where my crossmember will be for the tranny/transfer case. It was pretty easy work doing it and I just sand blasted the frame and coated the inside with weld through primer while I did it. I cut out templates out of cardboard for the curved areas and used 4x1/8" flatbar for the straight center section. I upgraded a couple of crossmembers as well. I figured this would help deal with the added HP. The LR4 should perform better than the 60HP flathead 4. I guess you could use the CJ7 frame but I think it would be more work, not be any stronger and fit poorly. The CJ7 frame is not really strong and gets a lot wider in the back end where as the CJ2A frame is parallel. I think I would Box your 2A frame, outboard the waggy springs, and use your waggy axles. Should work perfect. I may build a second one with the leftovers that I have and what a buddy of mine has kicking around. I have a CJ5 frame, 2 flatty bodies, a complete wagoneer to strip as well as numerous V8s (including a complete LT1 out of a 93 Camaro) and numerous trannys and transfer cases. I want this Jeep to be nice and restified but if I do a second one out of the leftovers I will probably go more of hard core trail beater. Fun stuff. Keep an eye out on my posts for info and I will look for your buildup. Do you have a buildup posted on any other forums? Later.
Greg

svaras

Greg, thank you for your usefull info.
Yes, I do have my buildup in another forum, but it´s in spanish (I´m from Chile)...I don´t know how is your spanish
For sure I´ll bother you for more info.
By the way, this will be my second Gen III, swap. I have a 1989 Grand Wagoneer with an LQ4.
You can check how it moves in this videos......

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCKXEFVYIHs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-Hg6KB6byE

avmechanic

Cool. I might have to brush up on my spanish You can follow my buildup here when I do post it and on the early CJ5 forum. That is a sweet Waggy buy the way. It sounds like it performs pretty good.
Greg