LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

block is struggling to turn over

Old 02-18-2009, 02:05 PM
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Default block is struggling to turn over

ok so i am doing a rebuild and i am still having problems turning the block with the new bigger starter now when the rod bolts are lose it will turn but when i torque them down the starter will not turn it over there must be something wrong i am almost 100% shore that all the barrens are the right way what could it be and the motor is well oiled
Old 02-18-2009, 02:14 PM
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but i do remember when i was installing the rods some where giving me problems fitting the two rods on the crank so i just hit them in with my rubber hammer i just thought that the motor would fix it and put them in place do yall think i may need to put some sand paper on the side of the rod to maybe make it fit a lil better
Old 02-18-2009, 02:29 PM
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someone come though what do yall think
Old 02-18-2009, 02:45 PM
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New bigger starter? Why did you change the starter in the first place?

Did you have the rods reconditioned? When building your engine. Did you check all of your clearances?
Old 02-18-2009, 03:02 PM
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Is it a high torque starter? what the compression? You didnt give any info.
Old 02-18-2009, 03:10 PM
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Do you have the correct rod bearings installed? meaning if the machine shop resized the rods and turned them 10 over did you get 10 over bearings?
Old 02-18-2009, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
New bigger starter? Why did you change the starter in the first place?

Did you have the rods reconditioned? When building your engine. Did you check all of your clearances?
i was using the stock starter and not a thing out of it so i bought a bigger and better one and for the clearance i have that done the block will turn all the way around but it will not keep turning it will stop but what i have done is taken the heads off and it is working but i think me jumping strait from one car to the starter may be the problem maynot be getting get power i need from jumping it from the other car see the motor is not in the car yet it is on the stand
Old 02-18-2009, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by moehorsepower
Do you have the correct rod bearings installed? meaning if the machine shop resized the rods and turned them 10 over did you get 10 over bearings?
well the bearings came withe the stroker kit i bought all was a kit the rods,bearings,cam,pistons,and crank all was a kit
Old 02-18-2009, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by moderate Z28
Is it a high torque starter? what the compression? You didnt give any info.
and yes it is a high torque starter and i have the heads off
Old 02-18-2009, 06:21 PM
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i really think it is the piston rings being new and not getting the power i need from trying to jump it
Old 02-18-2009, 06:23 PM
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So with the heads on it has trouble turning over? And with the heads off it is fine? What compression is the motor?

Sounds like a weak power feed to the starter, but even so the starter most likely wont turn at all.
Old 02-18-2009, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Speed Density
So with the heads on it has trouble turning over? And with the heads off it is fine? What compression is the motor?

Sounds like a weak power feed to the starter, but even so the starter most likely wont turn at all.
with the heads off it is having trouble and with the heads on it is having trouble i just really think it is the new rings and the amount of power i am giving it i just dont think it is the compression
Old 02-18-2009, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by rajun_cajun
someone come though what do yall think
Honestly, not even joking, get someone who knows what they are doing building motors to give you a hand...

If the rods would not fit together on the crank without using a rubber mallet... Wow, just wow.. don't even know where to start with that one other than you are totally f'ed...

Seriously, take it to someone that knows what they are doing... A motor is NOT an erector set where you just put this here, that there and bolt it up... you have to check clearences, check for fitment, measure this, adjust that, etc, etc...

Wow... I can only just shake my head in disbelief...
Old 02-18-2009, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 95 TA - The Beast
Honestly, not even joking, get someone who knows what they are doing building motors to give you a hand...

If the rods would not fit together on the crank without using a rubber mallet... Wow, just wow.. don't even know where to start with that one other than you are totally f'ed...

Seriously, take it to someone that knows what they are doing... A motor is NOT an erector set where you just put this here, that there and bolt it up... you have to check clearences, check for fitment, measure this, adjust that, etc, etc...

Wow... I can only just shake my head in disbelief...
well just to start where i live there is not many people that will help you though something like this and hell if you cant help i guess this is not the site for you the thing about this site is to help people though problems and a s for betting them on it was not likre that the problem with the top of the rods was i put the backwards on the 3 pistons and was binding up on the crank and for you to down someone you should wont to shake your head for not helpping just my two cents
Old 02-18-2009, 06:41 PM
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and you will not learn how to do this if somebody builds your motor for you i build it the way i want to and if it messes up will that is something i will have to fix if someone is building for you wish you the best
Old 02-18-2009, 08:42 PM
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I thought this was a joke until I kept on reading!

If the motor won't turn over easily WITH YOUR BARE HANDS on a ratchet after short block assembly, STOP!!!!!!!!
Old 02-19-2009, 06:43 AM
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OK, what I would do is start over, Remove all of the pistons or at least push them back in the hole, (disconnected from the crank) if the crank spins freely then thats a good. Now you are sure you have the rods in the proper place? meaning the chamfered end is towards the crank and the flat end is rod to rod. Start installing one rod at a time and after you torque ONE see if the crank will turn by hand just as free as the crank alone, of course there will be a little resistance due to the rings but even with all eight you should be able to turn the crank with a wrench on the snout very easily. If it starts binding as the rods go in then there is your problem..You can also use the poor mans approach by using Plastiguage which you can buy from your local autoparts store, This will tell you your clearances for all of your bearings..Good Luck hope this helps....
Old 02-19-2009, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by moehorsepower
You can also use the poor mans approach by using Plastiguage which you can buy from your local autoparts store, This will tell you your clearances for all of your bearings..Good Luck hope this helps....
Winner.
Old 02-19-2009, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by moehorsepower
OK, what I would do is start over, Remove all of the pistons or at least push them back in the hole, (disconnected from the crank) if the crank spins freely then thats a good. Now you are sure you have the rods in the proper place? meaning the chamfered end is towards the crank and the flat end is rod to rod. Start installing one rod at a time and after you torque ONE see if the crank will turn by hand just as free as the crank alone, of course there will be a little resistance due to the rings but even with all eight you should be able to turn the crank with a wrench on the snout very easily. If it starts binding as the rods go in then there is your problem..You can also use the poor mans approach by using Plastiguage which you can buy from your local autoparts store, This will tell you your clearances for all of your bearings..Good Luck hope this helps....
Very good reply.
Old 02-19-2009, 09:05 AM
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rule of thumb with no head is about 5 ft. lbs per piston installed to turn it over ( v8=40ftlbs). Like stated above, if you can turn it with a ratchet or short breaker bar, its ok.

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