intake wont come off
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Carbondale IL,
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
intake wont come off
Im about 12 hours into swapping on the ls6 intake and the ls1 intake will not come off. Ive got everything un hooked like ls1howto says except the stuff on the back because it wont come forward. I can move it up and down but something hangs it up and it will only pull forward about 1/4-1/2 of an inch. Im out of options and ideas. Anybody had this problem with it not moving forward so you can get behind it to pull the little vac line and electrical connector off? any ideas on what I could be hungup on? its not a solid stop like a bolt its squshy like pulling on wires. any help would be great. thanks.
#2
TECH Addict
Keep the bolts in the back up with some rubber bands or clips, raise it up just enough for the "bosses" on the manifold to clear the insets in the head, (careful here because if you raise it too much you will break the oil sending unit), then ease it forward,check the bolts as you go to make sure they are high enough to clear. It will then slide forward easily and you can remove the hoses and wires.
#3
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Carbondale IL,
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok i got it out... busted the oil sending unit clear off so my dad is headed to town to pick one up, oreilly has one. my hangup was this other wire coming off the back of the map sensor??? never seen it on any pictures before and the ls6 intake doesnt have a provision for it. it comes out of the side of the little vacuum hose and ran to some sensor. my brother is on his way here with my camera so ill post a picture. anyone know what that thing is?
#4
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Carbondale IL,
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
there it is... you can see where it hooks into the side of the little vacuum hose and the sensor that I took off the car. it was mounted up by the #5 injector. theres another line that comes out of the back of that sensor that ran to the top of another sensor looking thing under the hood way in the back that had an air line running from the drivers side manifold to that sensor
#6
+100 on the good pics and accurate descriptions.
When you put the intake back on use some 1/4" to 3/8" fuel line cut in approx1" sections and cut on one side so they can be put on the rear bolts to hold them up.
When you put the intake on, hold the rear higher and set it down when it gets past the oil sender.
#7
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (96)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Posts: 24,240
Likes: 0
Received 79 Likes
on
70 Posts
does it take 12 hours to do an intake swap???reason im asking is bc i will be helping a buddy do one soon and i estimated we could do it in an afternoon....
Trending Topics
#9
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
when me and my buddy did my head install we broke the damn oil pressure sending unit it was a pain in the ***. since we put the car back together and didnt relize that we broke and when i started up the car had no oil pressure lol
#10
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Carbondale IL,
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my main problem was i didnt realize that extra little fitting was on the back for that air stuff which i just got done completely tearing out of the car im in the process of removing the ribs on the bottom of the ls6 intake now... goin with the ls1 coolant lines... do i remember reading something somewhere about those green clips having to come off... the ones that hold on the electrical whatever lines to the coolant lines under the intake?
#11
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Carbondale IL,
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thats right.^^^^
+100 on the good pics and accurate descriptions.
When you put the intake back on use some 1/4" to 3/8" fuel line cut in approx1" sections and cut on one side so they can be put on the rear bolts to hold them up.
When you put the intake on, hold the rear higher and set it down when it gets past the oil sender.
+100 on the good pics and accurate descriptions.
When you put the intake back on use some 1/4" to 3/8" fuel line cut in approx1" sections and cut on one side so they can be put on the rear bolts to hold them up.
When you put the intake on, hold the rear higher and set it down when it gets past the oil sender.
thanks for the info on putting the intake back on... praying i dont break the damn thing again... thanks
#12
TECH Addict
iTrader: (4)
For what it's worth...the plastic nails that hold the weatherstripping down to the cowl are your worst enemy, might wanna consider removing that first and reinstalling it later when you finish the intake swap. If you're careful as I was, you won't break the oil sending unit (the brake booster hose could have broken mine if i wasn't careful), and if you hold each bolt up and wrap some tape around it as you unbolt them...they will stay held up for you. Do the same with the new intake, tape the bolts up...if you tape them right you can make yourself little tabs so when the intake is set in place, you can just tug the tabs and the bolts fall down into place, then it's really easy to snug them down and torque them.
#13
TECH Addict
iTrader: (39)
No, it took me about 5-6 hours working kinda slowly by myself...and I spent a lot of time squatting down next to the car letting my knees rest because they can't take leaning over a fender for very long without locking on me.
For what it's worth...the plastic nails that hold the weatherstripping down to the cowl are your worst enemy, might wanna consider removing that first and reinstalling it later when you finish the intake swap. If you're careful as I was, you won't break the oil sending unit (the brake booster hose could have broken mine if i wasn't careful), and if you hold each bolt up and wrap some tape around it as you unbolt them...they will stay held up for you. Do the same with the new intake, tape the bolts up...if you tape them right you can make yourself little tabs so when the intake is set in place, you can just tug the tabs and the bolts fall down into place, then it's really easy to snug them down and torque them.
For what it's worth...the plastic nails that hold the weatherstripping down to the cowl are your worst enemy, might wanna consider removing that first and reinstalling it later when you finish the intake swap. If you're careful as I was, you won't break the oil sending unit (the brake booster hose could have broken mine if i wasn't careful), and if you hold each bolt up and wrap some tape around it as you unbolt them...they will stay held up for you. Do the same with the new intake, tape the bolts up...if you tape them right you can make yourself little tabs so when the intake is set in place, you can just tug the tabs and the bolts fall down into place, then it's really easy to snug them down and torque them.
#14
Staging Lane
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Bridge City, TX
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On my bolts I cut small pieces of hose and split them to hold the bolts up. I second to pulling the plastic retainers on the cowl. I snapped my OSU too, but I couldn't get the brake hose routed back out of the rest of the wires. I kinda figured I would though. One more tip that I haven't seen yet is on an A4 jack the car up and remove the bolt that holds the transmission dipstick on the back of the head, mine wouldn't come out without it.
#15
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Carbondale IL,
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
+1 on the sharp little plastic bolts although i jus clipped the bottom sharp part off and caught the little pieces. i probably hadnt been working on it 12 hours... i exaggerated there on my first post because i was angry... yesterday i probably worked 7 hours on it and another 5 today. plus i removed the air system, and went reeeeally slow. plus making my own block off plates and it runs!!
#16
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Carmel, NY / ATL, GA
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nice work bud! I've taken the intake off so many times i think i could do it in an hour or two. Seriously i don't have enough fingers to count how many times i've done it, lol. Lets not even get into how many times i've broken the oil pressure sensor. GL with the car!
#18
Curveball TECH
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Galleria
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good job on getting everything fixed!
My first time took forever as well because I never read (or was smart enough) to tape up the bolts. That makes things 10000000000 times easier, I use 1" sections of fuel hose now. Your second time will go much smoother.
Due to retarded reasons I ended up pulling the intake off and back on 3 days in a row. A guy on here said he could pull one off in 10 minutes which I thought was impossible. I timed myself the second day and had the thing out in 18!
Be sure to follow the torque specs and sequence on the 10 8mm bolts because they will snap if you over torque them. ; )
My first time took forever as well because I never read (or was smart enough) to tape up the bolts. That makes things 10000000000 times easier, I use 1" sections of fuel hose now. Your second time will go much smoother.
Due to retarded reasons I ended up pulling the intake off and back on 3 days in a row. A guy on here said he could pull one off in 10 minutes which I thought was impossible. I timed myself the second day and had the thing out in 18!
Be sure to follow the torque specs and sequence on the 10 8mm bolts because they will snap if you over torque them. ; )