Simplex Effect

Well this is one of my first post here on LS1tech.

I have been searching and found quite a few threads, but have noticed I didn't quite understand a few things since I have been into imports for awhile.

I have a Stock Aluminum LS1 that I need to get rebuilt for my 86' RX7 and I have found that Texas Speed has a decent price on a 383 LS1 Stroker Kit.

I am basically just wanting to get it rebuilt, but go ahead and have it forged and stroked. What needs to be done in terms of clearance? Would I need to get anything clearanced if I bought it from them with it being already a Balanced Rotating Assembly?

Also, big question... "Select Reluctor Wheel: 24 or 58 Tooth"

What is a Reluctor Wheel? Never heard of such thing before.

So far I am going with : Eagle Forged Crankshaft, Eagle H-Beam with ARP 8740 Rod Bolts, Mahle -6cc Pistons, Mahle Ring Set, Clevit H Chamfered Main & Rod Bearings, Balanced Rotating Assembly, and not sure on Reluctor wheel as I have no idea what it is.

So basically, would I have to get a machine shop to make clearance for the rods? Is there a way around it by buying different rods that don't have to have clearance made?

Thanks in advance, I am going to continue searching and will probably call up Texas Speed within this week to ask them a few questions.

conan

iTrader: (5)

You will want a machine shop to install new cam bearings and line hone the main bearings and hone the cyclinders. The stroked crank will fit, you are just checking all the normal clearances for a engine rebuild. The "reluctor wheel is the gear on the back of the crank shaft the the crank position sensor picks up. The 24 tooth is on the 98 model crank and the 58 tooth is on the 99 and up. So that will depend on your block and pcm.

$O$OE

iTrader: (14)

pick up a 6.0 block and go 402/408. its gonna run u about the same to do the build on the 383, plus u will pick some extra HP with more cubes..get an iron block if ur on a budget

$O$OE

iTrader: (14)

and plus ur LS1 parts are interchangeable with this motor. so u can keep ur heads, cam, manifold, etc etc..

vsocks1

iTrader: (6)

This will have the additional cost of the block...so how is it the same to build?

blackls1ta00

iTrader: (27)

ive spent about 1k on machining for my 383,rod bolts,windage tray,crank need clearenced id let a shop do it.

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

I believe all F-body ls1's were 24 tooth. The 58 tooth is for the 6.0 blocks in some vihicles.

stmz28

iTrader: (9)

It will be easyer to just buy the short block build by texas speed and I would upgrade the rod bolts.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Besides common machining (hone, deck surfaced, etc.), it would likely need to be clearanced for the rods. You could use a 2.00" pin Compstar crank and rods (which helps), but I'm not really sure if it still needs to be clearanced or not.

The reluctor wheel is how the computer senses crank rotational speed. Google "crank trigger ignition" if you want to know more about how it works. Same principles really. 24x was earlier LS1's/LS6's/etc., while 58x were later model LS2's/LS7's/etc. Depends on what computer you're using for the swap.

It's probably best to just have the shop work out the clearance. I'm pretty sure a 2.00" ends up with a lighter bobweight (ie easier to spin, easier to balance).