383 w/ 6in rod hitting the water jacket
#1
383 w/ 6in rod hitting the water jacket
I was told by a friend that going with a 383 that you can't run a 6 inch rod, and that you'll have to clearance the block so much that you'll end up hitting the water jacket. Is this correct?? I thought there was quite a few people running 6 inch rods on 383's with no problems.
#2
TECH Senior Member
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Ask your buddy where he is getting his information from...
You can build a 383 with .030" over bore (4.030" pistons), 3.75" crank, and either 5.7", 5.85", or 6.0" rods depending on which style pistons you choose. You want to go with the longest rod you can get away with.
You can build a 383 with .030" over bore (4.030" pistons), 3.75" crank, and either 5.7", 5.85", or 6.0" rods depending on which style pistons you choose. You want to go with the longest rod you can get away with.
#6
TECH Senior Member
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I haard from a friend whose friend heard from another friend's room-mate's inlaws that your friend providing the information is retarded.
There have been countless 383 builds with 6" rods. Including mine. Anyone who tells you that it can't be done is downright assinine.
There have been countless 383 builds with 6" rods. Including mine. Anyone who tells you that it can't be done is downright assinine.
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#8
I was told by a friend that going with a 383 that you can't run a 6 inch rod, and that you'll have to clearance the block so much that you'll end up hitting the water jacket. Is this correct?? I thought there was quite a few people running 6 inch rods on 383's with no problems.
Yes, you will probably have to clearance for most rod designs.
Yes, you are likely to hit water with H-beams and big bolt heads.
No, it's not the end of the world, you can weld it closed again without a problem.
This is my 383 with Eagle 6" Forged H-beams
We hit water several times and welded to repair.
#9
Depends on your block, rod choice, and rod bolts used. If you use 6" Eagle h-beams with L19 rod bolts you WILL hit water in more then one spot.
If you go 6" rod I would half fill it no matter what rod/bolt combo used just in case. Also note that there are some other cons besides just clearance - less PTV(not usually a problem on most builds but worth checking), smaller piston choice, and a higher chance of needing a small base circle cam to name a few.
If you go 6" rod I would half fill it no matter what rod/bolt combo used just in case. Also note that there are some other cons besides just clearance - less PTV(not usually a problem on most builds but worth checking), smaller piston choice, and a higher chance of needing a small base circle cam to name a few.
#11
12 Second Club
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The general consensus that engine builders I have discussed it with have said that it is mostly theory and there have been no solid proven gains/benefits of going with a 6" rod over 5.7"
Another thing with 6" rods is the wrist pin is often located partially in the oil ring land which has been said to cause more oil usage.
I would stick with 5.7" or go to 5.85" if you want a happy medium.
Another thing with 6" rods is the wrist pin is often located partially in the oil ring land which has been said to cause more oil usage.
I would stick with 5.7" or go to 5.85" if you want a happy medium.
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--Alan
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6" oliver rods, 383 half filled block here. custom nitrous pistons with buttons instead of wrist pin spirolox so that my top ring land is still thick as ****.... pistons are setup for a 500 shot.....
never hit water.... but probably because my engine builder sits at the right hand of god.....
if your guy knows what he's doing you won't have a problem.... I run huge rod bolts and didn't come close to water...
never hit water.... but probably because my engine builder sits at the right hand of god.....
if your guy knows what he's doing you won't have a problem.... I run huge rod bolts and didn't come close to water...