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Is this carrier stock? and where do I get parts?

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Old 02-26-2009, 12:31 AM
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Default Is this carrier stock? and where do I get parts?

Well I just got this WS6 a couple months ago and the rear end was making noise. Sounded like a bearing, didn't sound like a gear whine. So I took it apart today to check out the bearings. Also the posi doesn't seem to work because it will spin the RR tire and that one is bald and the rest are good. So I figured I'd get bearings and a clutch kit for the carrier.

Once I got the cover off I noticed I could move the whole carrier side to side so I figured the bearings were shot, but they look and feel fine. Then I took the carrier out and the pinion wiggles and moves back and forth. I haven't pulled it out yet to check the bearings. I just ordered a bearing kit from summit.

So what I'm wondering is if this carrier is stock

I was expecting to see the old style with clutch packs on each side and springs between the side gears.
I found one thread on here that mentioned a torsion style diff in some of these cars and said that it acts like an open diff unless both wheels have at least some traction. But with both tires on the road my car wants to spin the right rear only.

I can't find parts for this thing anywhere. The local Pontiac dealer didn't show it in their parts catalog either. It looks like there are clutch discs:

Can I get those some where and replace them while I've got it out?
Old 02-26-2009, 01:35 AM
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i have no idea how to rebuild it but yea thats a stock carrier from 01-02. iv had 2 also it sounds like you rear is just setup horribly. every time iv ever had to take a diff out, i had to use a prybar. its not very good that the pinion moves either
Old 02-26-2009, 08:14 AM
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Thats a factory installed torsen. I have one on my bench with 160,000 miles on it and it shows no sign of wear. I even contacted torsen about what to look for.
Theres nothing in it except 8 helical cut gears, two side gears, two hardened washers.
If there are grooves in the carrier where the small gears go it has wear. If it has wear throw it away.
It says Torsen right by the bearing opposite the ring gear.

Torsens come in a lot of factory applications for all vehicle manufacturers, they also make a T-2 with clutches for F Bodies, but that one you have there is a factory clutchless T1.




Last edited by 9000th01ss; 02-26-2009 at 08:21 AM.
Old 02-26-2009, 09:03 AM
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Ok guys thanks for the info. I guess I'll just replace the bearings and see if the noise goes away. I plan to upgrade to a 9" later but I'd like to get rid of the noise for now.
Old 02-26-2009, 09:54 AM
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Good chance you have bad bearings. If the positraction is only doing one wheel pulls it is best to replcae that stock carrier with an aftermarket poistraction before the torsen breaks. Let me know if we can help you out.

Jeff
Old 02-26-2009, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Jawsgear
Good chance you have bad bearings. If the positraction is only doing one wheel pulls it is best to replcae that stock carrier with an aftermarket poistraction before the torsen breaks. Let me know if we can help you out.

Jeff
Well I don't really want to put more than a couple hundred bucks into this diff. I'll probably just go with a 9" after I put my APS kit on. But thanks
Old 02-28-2009, 10:28 AM
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ok where exactly am i looking for this wear at again???i have got a buddys on the shop table and need to know if it should be replaced or not...
Old 02-28-2009, 01:21 PM
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Yeah how do you know if the posi is worn? I just got my bearing set and I'm working on putting everything back together but it would be nice to know for sure if the factory posi set up is worn out or not.
Old 02-28-2009, 01:44 PM
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The pic is of everything inside a Factory installed F-Body Torsen T1.
Everything is hardened steel, including the washers between the side gears and case.
The case is iron. Take this stuff out of yours, look at where the gears touch the case. If there are ridges and scuff marks, then thats wear.

When you apply power to this diff these gears push toward the case, if the case wears enough the gears will unmesh and the vehicle will stop moving.
As you can see by the shape of the gears, it should be easy to see the wear marks.
Also look for chips, etc, obvious stuff.
Attached is an email from Torsen. Torque the four bolts down to 110 ft lbs and use locktite 272.
Have fun getting it back together.

Last edited by 9000th01ss; 03-18-2009 at 12:17 AM.
Old 02-28-2009, 09:01 PM
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if its gear driven how does it one wheel peel??
Old 02-28-2009, 09:06 PM
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http://www.torsen.com/general/general_faq.htm
I've explained this way too many times. The manufacturer does a better job than I do anyway.
Old 03-05-2009, 01:55 PM
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So I finally pulled my pinion out to replace the bearings. I was going to just reuse the factory shims but when I got it out there was a gap between the head of the pinion and the bearing and no shims. Did the factory do it like that? I'm assuming everything on this car is stock because none of it looks like it's every been touched, including maintenance items. There was still a gasket on the diff cover and most people just use silicone. I don't have time to mess with checking pinion depth. And I'll probably get a 9" later anyway so I'm not worried about it being perfect I just want the noise gone. The gap is .077" and I don't think there was gear noise, but then again I probably wouldn't have been able to hear it over the bearing noise. So I was thinking I'd just put shims in to make up the .077" and hope there's no gear noise when I get it back together.

But has anyone ever seen a pinion set up from the factory with a gap like that and no shims?
Old 03-05-2009, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by t_raven

But has anyone ever seen a pinion set up from the factory with a gap like that and no shims?
I'd say it's impossible to run many miles with a gap there.
I doubt the gap would be there after tightening the pinion nut enough to crush the crush collar.

And running it any amount of time would close the gap and loosen the whole pinion set up.

Weird situations are hard to diagnose over the internet.
Old 03-05-2009, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 9000th01ss
I'd say it's impossible to run many miles with a gap there.
I doubt the gap would be there after tightening the pinion nut enough to crush the crush collar.

And running it any amount of time would close the gap and loosen the whole pinion set up.

Weird situations are hard to diagnose over the internet.
Yeah that's what I thought was that tightening the nut would just push the bearing on all the way anyway. It's weird that it was in there like that. It would be nice to know what was done to this car. Oh well I guess I'll put it back together and see how it sounds. I'm headed back to Iraq on Tuesday so I'll probably just buy a 9" and having waiting for me when I come home again in Aug.




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