street cam only...need input.
02-27-2009, 08:26 PM
#1
street cam only...need input. i have a a4 01 z28 with 75k....my current mods are pacesetters LT's, ory, magnaflow, lid, stock ported tb, nitto 555.
car is not my dd, it has not seen/and will not be taken to the track, street only, i do take it on 1-2 hr trips on time to time.
my goal for this car is somewhere in the neighborhood of 400-450 hp.
that being said, what cam do you guys suggest (from your personal experience) that will best suit my needs/reach my goal?? as i am a newbie, all your help will be very helpfull. I dont want something that will be hard to drive. being a street car only , i would like the power at the lowend to mid range.
i dont plan on doing heads....budget...maybe later down the road.
i have read that a stall is highly recomended, but do i really need it first before the cam?? i had thought about a vig 3200....
any help is greatly appreciated..
car is not my dd, it has not seen/and will not be taken to the track, street only, i do take it on 1-2 hr trips on time to time.
my goal for this car is somewhere in the neighborhood of 400-450 hp.
that being said, what cam do you guys suggest (from your personal experience) that will best suit my needs/reach my goal?? as i am a newbie, all your help will be very helpfull. I dont want something that will be hard to drive. being a street car only , i would like the power at the lowend to mid range.
i dont plan on doing heads....budget...maybe later down the road.
i have read that a stall is highly recomended, but do i really need it first before the cam?? i had thought about a vig 3200....
any help is greatly appreciated..
02-27-2009, 08:43 PM
#2
Your not gonna make 400-450rw cam only in an A4 with the cam size that fits your requirements. I don't know if you mean flywheel or rear wheel hp, but the standard everyone uses around here is rwhp.
I would suggest a cam in the 224-228 size. Thunder Racing 224, TSP 224 (Comp XE-R grind), TSP 228 (another Comp XE-R grind), would be a few great choices for excellent all around power and great street manners.
As far as a higher stalled torque converter goes, yes, it is needed before or at the same time as you do the cam. If you go cam first the car will drive awful and a stock cammed car with a stall would beat you.
The Vig 3200 is a good choice, and I wouldn't go any smaller. I had a 3500 coupled with a 225/225 in my previous A4.
I would suggest a cam in the 224-228 size. Thunder Racing 224, TSP 224 (Comp XE-R grind), TSP 228 (another Comp XE-R grind), would be a few great choices for excellent all around power and great street manners.
As far as a higher stalled torque converter goes, yes, it is needed before or at the same time as you do the cam. If you go cam first the car will drive awful and a stock cammed car with a stall would beat you.
The Vig 3200 is a good choice, and I wouldn't go any smaller. I had a 3500 coupled with a 225/225 in my previous A4.
02-27-2009, 09:22 PM
#3
Your not gonna make 400-450rw cam only in an A4 with the cam size that fits your requirements. I don't know if you mean flywheel or rear wheel hp, but the standard everyone uses around here is rwhp.
I would suggest a cam in the 224-228 size. Thunder Racing 224, TSP 224 (Comp XE-R grind), TSP 228 (another Comp XE-R grind), would be a few great choices for excellent all around power and great street manners.
As far as a higher stalled torque converter goes, yes, it is needed before or at the same time as you do the cam. If you go cam first the car will drive awful and a stock cammed car with a stall would beat you.
The Vig 3200 is a good choice, and I wouldn't go any smaller. I had a 3500 coupled with a 225/225 in my previous A4.
I would suggest a cam in the 224-228 size. Thunder Racing 224, TSP 224 (Comp XE-R grind), TSP 228 (another Comp XE-R grind), would be a few great choices for excellent all around power and great street manners.
As far as a higher stalled torque converter goes, yes, it is needed before or at the same time as you do the cam. If you go cam first the car will drive awful and a stock cammed car with a stall would beat you.
The Vig 3200 is a good choice, and I wouldn't go any smaller. I had a 3500 coupled with a 225/225 in my previous A4.
i also plan on going with a ud pulley aswell.
what is the general diff. between a 112 and 114 cam????
02-27-2009, 09:37 PM
#4
Just go big with something like the magic stick if you want to make 400rwhp or more. They're perfectly driveable as long as you have a decent converter. Also, my converter is in the 3500 range on motor, and it drives very nice. If you're gonna stay n/a, go with a bigger converter from a good company...It'll still drive great. i.e ss4000
02-27-2009, 09:37 PM
#5
The cams I listed would meet your goals as far as the type of power band and drive-ability that you are wanting.
All cars are different, and all dynos read a little different, but through a stalled A4 with those sized cams you most likely will not hit 400rwhp. If you do, that would be above average results IMO.
You must remember though, just because you don't have a high dyno chart to brag about, doesn't mean the car won't run superb. Autos don't make high numbers, but they run well on the street and at the track with the numbers that they do produce.
A 112 will offer a little lower power curve vs a 114, and the 114 will be easier to tune. I ran a 112 with my auto. With these sized cams it's a non-issue really.
All cars are different, and all dynos read a little different, but through a stalled A4 with those sized cams you most likely will not hit 400rwhp. If you do, that would be above average results IMO.
You must remember though, just because you don't have a high dyno chart to brag about, doesn't mean the car won't run superb. Autos don't make high numbers, but they run well on the street and at the track with the numbers that they do produce.
A 112 will offer a little lower power curve vs a 114, and the 114 will be easier to tune. I ran a 112 with my auto. With these sized cams it's a non-issue really.
02-28-2009, 12:19 AM
#7
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like briancws6 said....your not gonna produce crazy cam only numbers through an a4 w/ what your looking to do. in order to get 400+ your gonna need full bolt ons, ie fast 92/92 TDs or good flowing exhaust w/ cutout, ewp etc etc and good tuning
get a good streetable cam as mentioned above w/ a 4k stall and DRs and youll hit high 11s if you went to the track
get a good streetable cam as mentioned above w/ a 4k stall and DRs and youll hit high 11s if you went to the track
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02-28-2009, 06:54 AM
#8
You can try this combo. It didnt make much past 400 but it did make 405rwhp which qualifies for what you are looking for.
MTI Stage 2e 241 casting heads
TR 224 cam ground on a 114
pacesetter LT
ls6 intake
3000 vig stall
fast toys ram air kit
3 in cutout
stock 3.23 gear
stock trans w/ torque management removed and line pressure raised
tuned by Futral Motorsports
Idle speed was raised to 900 to get rid of the lope (street sleeper
)
Car dynoed 405 rwhp 394 rwtq
It ran consistent 11.60's at the track on the motor and 10.50's on a 150 shot
Because of the raised idle the car had no lope and we would tell people on the street it was a stock car with bolt-ons and we took a **** load of money
MTI Stage 2e 241 casting heads
TR 224 cam ground on a 114
pacesetter LT
ls6 intake
3000 vig stall
fast toys ram air kit
3 in cutout
stock 3.23 gear
stock trans w/ torque management removed and line pressure raised
tuned by Futral Motorsports
Idle speed was raised to 900 to get rid of the lope (street sleeper
)Car dynoed 405 rwhp 394 rwtq
It ran consistent 11.60's at the track on the motor and 10.50's on a 150 shot
Because of the raised idle the car had no lope and we would tell people on the street it was a stock car with bolt-ons and we took a **** load of money
02-28-2009, 08:31 AM
#9
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i got a comp cam 224/224 581/581 112lsa with all the other boltons and a fuddle 3400 stall..only putting down 370rwhp thats why i just orderd new heads...i want to hit or get over that 400rwhp mark...
02-28-2009, 09:22 AM
#10
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First of all, the stock stall isnt even right for the stock cam...much less going up in cam size. The thing is, a larger cam is going to move your power band up in the rpm range. The stock cam's sweet spot is mid range to start with, so the stock stall doesnt even put/keep you where you need to be. A larger stall on a stock LS1 motor is a drastic improvement. It will be a day & night difference. I recommend you pick a stall size, based on your driving habits and what you plan to do with the car. Drive the car with just a stall for a while. its not like it wont be a much more fun car to drive with just the stall...you will have a blast. This will also give you time to learn where you will want improvement. Save yourself lots of time and money and do it piece by piece. If you just throw a package together, you will never know what you are missing and where you could/could have improved.
Now, saying that you wanna hit 400 to the wheels is setting yourself up to build a dyno queen. Its not about numbers, its about what will suit you. Thats why I said your driving habits and what you plan on doing with the car are the 2 most important factors when starting to mod. Obviously all the bolt ons are a given. If you are building a street car, I would suggest a Yank converter(which seem to drive tighter than most) in the 3200-3600 stall range. You will understand what I mean by tighter when you do some converter research. The best thing to do is read read read!! That cannot be stressed enough. You want to read enough so when it comes time to ordering a part, matching the part to your car/needs will be as easy as finding a food to satisfy your craving.
Since you asked, as already stated above, you will not hit 400 to the wheels with a street cam in an automatic car. It just wont happen. A majority of the time, you may only see 350-360 to the wheels. However, a stalled auto with a nice small to midsize street cam will walk all over a lot of 6-speed head/cam cars, while producing 40-50 horsepower less on the dyno. Granted, it does depend on many factors (other mods, driver, whether the race is from a roll or a dig).
Bottom line...dont worry about numbers. Do some reading on converters and pick on for yourself. Drive it for a while and learn what and where you want improvement. Then research cams and decide what cam will give you the gains you are looking for. Its not just peak numbers you want to see...you want a nice broad, flat torque curve for the street. If I had to recommend a "shelf" setup for you, Id say a Yank SS3600 stall and either a Thunder Racing 224 or Futral Motorsports F13 cam. Either of these would give you a healthy healthy street setup and trust me when I say you could hold your own.
Raise
Now, saying that you wanna hit 400 to the wheels is setting yourself up to build a dyno queen. Its not about numbers, its about what will suit you. Thats why I said your driving habits and what you plan on doing with the car are the 2 most important factors when starting to mod. Obviously all the bolt ons are a given. If you are building a street car, I would suggest a Yank converter(which seem to drive tighter than most) in the 3200-3600 stall range. You will understand what I mean by tighter when you do some converter research. The best thing to do is read read read!! That cannot be stressed enough. You want to read enough so when it comes time to ordering a part, matching the part to your car/needs will be as easy as finding a food to satisfy your craving.
Since you asked, as already stated above, you will not hit 400 to the wheels with a street cam in an automatic car. It just wont happen. A majority of the time, you may only see 350-360 to the wheels. However, a stalled auto with a nice small to midsize street cam will walk all over a lot of 6-speed head/cam cars, while producing 40-50 horsepower less on the dyno. Granted, it does depend on many factors (other mods, driver, whether the race is from a roll or a dig).
Bottom line...dont worry about numbers. Do some reading on converters and pick on for yourself. Drive it for a while and learn what and where you want improvement. Then research cams and decide what cam will give you the gains you are looking for. Its not just peak numbers you want to see...you want a nice broad, flat torque curve for the street. If I had to recommend a "shelf" setup for you, Id say a Yank SS3600 stall and either a Thunder Racing 224 or Futral Motorsports F13 cam. Either of these would give you a healthy healthy street setup and trust me when I say you could hold your own.
Raise
02-28-2009, 10:02 AM
#11
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like briancws6 said....your not gonna produce crazy cam only numbers through an a4 w/ what your looking to do. in order to get 400+ your gonna need full bolt ons, ie fast 92/92 TDs or good flowing exhaust w/ cutout, ewp etc etc and good tuning
get a good streetable cam as mentioned above w/ a 4k stall and DRs and youll hit high 11s if you went to the track
get a good streetable cam as mentioned above w/ a 4k stall and DRs and youll hit high 11s if you went to the track
my tr224 made 384/365 (365/350corrected) through an unlocked converter with LTs and all the usual bolt ons....guy i know made 420/395 in a m6 and he rode in mine and said mine felt every bit as fast as his was.
02-28-2009, 11:36 AM
#14
like said earlier get a nice street stall ss3600-ss4000 and a middle size cam...228-232 range and you will be happy...
Chris
02-28-2009, 03:13 PM
#15
thanks for all of your replies guys... i have thought about doing it piece by piece...but i also just wanted to get all my stuff put on and dynoed/tuned one time (instead of twice-cam,stall). b ut it makes since to piece it together aswell..im on a budget aswell.. ive read some on stalls and leaning towards a vig3200 and yankss3600.
02-28-2009, 05:33 PM
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i got the fuddle 3400 and will be replacing it with a 3600 or 4000 of a differant brand soon...i did the cam first then the stall...the stall will really "wake up" the car id say go with the 3600 stall still be fun and streetable after driveing mine with the 3400 for a year i want more 
