Kirkey, Race inc. brackets,I/O port racing brace,5 point harness install w/pics
#1
Kirkey, Race inc. brackets,I/O port racing brace,5 point harness install w/pics
Got some time to put the seat in last Sat. Thanks to some searching and info I collected on here, it went pretty smooth.
It's a Kirkey pro 18" hip with the black tweed cover. Picked up a set of seat brackets from Racecraft inc. and a back brace from I/O Port Racing to ease installation and minimize fabrication.
The seat brackets worked great. They're typically made for a 17" hip but they supply (for an additional $10.00) four 1/2" aluminum spacers and 4 longer bolts to accomodate the 18" seat. They also make brackets for the passenger side.
I set the brackets to the last hole in the adjustments but it just wasn't quite enough. The door bar hit (Wolfe bar with low slung bars) and it was just to close for me (6'-4" @ 265 lbs). The 17" hip would probably just sneak past the door bar.
The position I needed interfered with the snap button for the cover as well as hitting the rolled edge on the front of the seat.
A little bit of notching on the bracket took care of that.
Set the seat in place drilled 4 holes and bolted the seat to the bracket.
Next was the back brace. It's pretty straightforward. Clamps to the roll bar and the pipe slides back and forth to where you need it. Just need to bend the bracket to the seats shape, position everything, tighten down the clamp, drill 2 holes in the bracket and seat and 1 hole in the pipe. Bolt/pin and your done.
The shoulder harness wraps on the roll bar. The lap belts are bolted in the stock position but the holes in the belt mounts need to be enlarged to 9/16" in order to work with the shoulder on the stock bolts. The sub belt is bolted to the floor just in front of the back seat floor grommet.
The last thing I did was bend the seat out around my thighs to where it felt comfortable. With this set-up you do end up sitting 2" - 2 1/2" lower than in the stock seat. A spacer between the seat bottom and bracket could easily raise it up to overcome some of the difference if its a problem. There's plenty of room on the bracket to accomodate it.
As far as weight goes, it's about 15lb savings after all the braces,brackets,harness, and seat cover. Probably add another pound or 2 once I pull the stock belt/retractor. I may also chop off the extra length of pipe on the back brace. It might just come out to a pound. Swiss cheesing the seat has crossed my mind as well. Maybe another pound. So another 4lbs for a total of 19lbs if I do all that.
Stock power seat...........41lbs
--------------------------------------------------------------
Kirkey...........................12lbs
Seat cover......................3lbs
5 point harness...............5lbs
Seat brackets/brace.......6lbs
It's a Kirkey pro 18" hip with the black tweed cover. Picked up a set of seat brackets from Racecraft inc. and a back brace from I/O Port Racing to ease installation and minimize fabrication.
The seat brackets worked great. They're typically made for a 17" hip but they supply (for an additional $10.00) four 1/2" aluminum spacers and 4 longer bolts to accomodate the 18" seat. They also make brackets for the passenger side.
I set the brackets to the last hole in the adjustments but it just wasn't quite enough. The door bar hit (Wolfe bar with low slung bars) and it was just to close for me (6'-4" @ 265 lbs). The 17" hip would probably just sneak past the door bar.
The position I needed interfered with the snap button for the cover as well as hitting the rolled edge on the front of the seat.
A little bit of notching on the bracket took care of that.
Set the seat in place drilled 4 holes and bolted the seat to the bracket.
Next was the back brace. It's pretty straightforward. Clamps to the roll bar and the pipe slides back and forth to where you need it. Just need to bend the bracket to the seats shape, position everything, tighten down the clamp, drill 2 holes in the bracket and seat and 1 hole in the pipe. Bolt/pin and your done.
The shoulder harness wraps on the roll bar. The lap belts are bolted in the stock position but the holes in the belt mounts need to be enlarged to 9/16" in order to work with the shoulder on the stock bolts. The sub belt is bolted to the floor just in front of the back seat floor grommet.
The last thing I did was bend the seat out around my thighs to where it felt comfortable. With this set-up you do end up sitting 2" - 2 1/2" lower than in the stock seat. A spacer between the seat bottom and bracket could easily raise it up to overcome some of the difference if its a problem. There's plenty of room on the bracket to accomodate it.
As far as weight goes, it's about 15lb savings after all the braces,brackets,harness, and seat cover. Probably add another pound or 2 once I pull the stock belt/retractor. I may also chop off the extra length of pipe on the back brace. It might just come out to a pound. Swiss cheesing the seat has crossed my mind as well. Maybe another pound. So another 4lbs for a total of 19lbs if I do all that.
Stock power seat...........41lbs
--------------------------------------------------------------
Kirkey...........................12lbs
Seat cover......................3lbs
5 point harness...............5lbs
Seat brackets/brace.......6lbs
Last edited by SSmokin 01; 03-01-2009 at 12:52 PM.
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#8
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Looks familiar here as well
I have the 17" Kirkeys and went with the genuine imitation leather covers (vinyl) covers. The brackets and I/O port brace makes putting a kirkey in one of these a breeze. I have had this I/O port bracket on several cars, looks like the new ones are unpainted stainless, looks a lot better than mine since its pretty scratched up.
I have the 17" Kirkeys and went with the genuine imitation leather covers (vinyl) covers. The brackets and I/O port brace makes putting a kirkey in one of these a breeze. I have had this I/O port bracket on several cars, looks like the new ones are unpainted stainless, looks a lot better than mine since its pretty scratched up.
#11
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Thankyou very much. That is perfect for me. That is the same setup i will be using. The brackets should be here from Madman any day and i will get started. Still have to order the I/Oport Brace (a bit expensive but nice). I am also waiting for my roll bar from Wolf, bolt in type for now. I assume i should install that first, then belts and lightweight carpet then seat.
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Thankyou very much. That is perfect for me. That is the same setup i will be using. The brackets should be here from Madman any day and i will get started. Still have to order the I/Oport Brace (a bit expensive but nice). I am also waiting for my roll bar from Wolf, bolt in type for now. I assume i should install that first, then belts and lightweight carpet then seat.
I sold a mild steel bolt in Wolfe rollbar and got a shop to weld in a chromoly one...the price difference was only $50 more.
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Thanks, i did get the CM bolt in from Wolfe, I will bolt it in for now. A firefighter i work with is a professional welder also i will have him weld it in when we can schedule it in. I'm sure you saved me some time with your post thanks again.
#16
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Actually you can use the back 2 studs to sit the seat on, and jsut put a coule washers on the studs and grind the bolts a little, and you don't even know the bolts are there. Attach the seat to the rollbar ( I'd do it with a solid bar welded to the cage that comes to the seat) and you're done.
Cheaper, and will save the weight of the seat brackets. Helps keep your head off the rollbar too.
Cheaper, and will save the weight of the seat brackets. Helps keep your head off the rollbar too.
#17
Another note I forgot is you do end up sitting 2" - 2 1/2" lower than in the stock seat. A spacer between the seat bottom and bracket could easily raise it up to overcome some of that difference if its a problem. There's plenty of room on the bracket to accomodate it.
Last edited by SSmokin 01; 03-01-2009 at 12:52 PM.
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I just got my seat in last night. Those brackets are a real time saver. They fit great, i just had to put the bushing and washer on the outside bracket to get my seat to move inboard as much as possible. I had to put it inside to fit the 16 inch seat in. I test fit the seat in the car and it is great. Now the roll bar bolt in CM for now.