a couple fuel/injector questions
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a couple fuel/injector questions
Im putting in an MS3 cam and planning on upgrading to 42# injectors. My question is am I going to screw stuff up by driving it untuned to the tuner shop? Ittl be about a 150 mile drive. Ive got a trailer and its no problem to trailer it just wondering how hard on it driving it would be.
Question number 2 is I noticed that I have a teeny fuel leak on the front of my drivers side fuel rail where that little black plastic cap is. Its oober slow and I just noticed it. probably makes one drip ever 3+ minutes.
car is my 2000 camaro LS1
I would search but its been broke for 6 days now...
thanks
Question number 2 is I noticed that I have a teeny fuel leak on the front of my drivers side fuel rail where that little black plastic cap is. Its oober slow and I just noticed it. probably makes one drip ever 3+ minutes.
car is my 2000 camaro LS1
I would search but its been broke for 6 days now...
thanks
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I wouldn't drive it. When you smell how rich the car is going to run with those new injectors, you'll agree. When I upgraded to 60# injectors, the cloud of smoke when I pulled the car onto the trailer was awe-inspiring. And, I didn't change my cam or anything else in the motor. If you're going from a stock cam to an MS3, the car probably wouldn't run worth a crap even with the stock fuel system.
If the fuel rail is leaking, then the Schrader valve in there is bad. You need to buy a Schrader valve tool to remove the old one, and replace it with a new one. The cap itself does not seal the end of the rail.
If the fuel rail is leaking, then the Schrader valve in there is bad. You need to buy a Schrader valve tool to remove the old one, and replace it with a new one. The cap itself does not seal the end of the rail.
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ok ill trailer it for sure. kinda what i planned on doing any way.
I assume GM would be able to get that Schrader valve right? and would somewhere like oreilly or auto zone have the tool?
I assume GM would be able to get that Schrader valve right? and would somewhere like oreilly or auto zone have the tool?
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I don't think that an auto parts store would have one. I've never bought one, but I'd expect an air conditioning supply place to have it. Schrader valves are used a lot in A/C systems.
Also, I forgot to mention that it's possible (however, unlikely) that it's just loosened up and isn't actually bad. I'd be a lot more inclined to believe that the valve is bad, though.
Also, I forgot to mention that it's possible (however, unlikely) that it's just loosened up and isn't actually bad. I'd be a lot more inclined to believe that the valve is bad, though.
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The valve is easy. The tool is a couple dollars at AutoZone and you can go to a tire shop and ask for a spare valve stem. It's the same little thing on the inside.
Hopefully that is the problem and not a crack around the fitting.
Hopefully that is the problem and not a crack around the fitting.
#11
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Shraeder r&r tool for cheap...
Goto the tire shop, and pick up a couple used tubless tire valve stems, and a couple caps w/ the removal "tool" on the end. Put a drop of Loctite on the stem threads, and tighten the cap on.
WALA!! A neat tool for the tool box, and a spare.. all for free.
Wouldn't hurt to buy a couple new valves, and include them in the box. [I have mine in an old fuse box].
Goto the tire shop, and pick up a couple used tubless tire valve stems, and a couple caps w/ the removal "tool" on the end. Put a drop of Loctite on the stem threads, and tighten the cap on.
WALA!! A neat tool for the tool box, and a spare.. all for free.
Wouldn't hurt to buy a couple new valves, and include them in the box. [I have mine in an old fuse box].
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just put the valve in and it fixed it! we had a valve stem tool at our shop so i used that. didnt put any loctite on it tho... ill do it tomorrow. should i purge that that valve a few times when the system is charging to get the air out before I start it?