Red03GT

Do any of you GM service techs happen to have those scanned manual sheets on how to replace the GXP brakes? Going to be replacing mines and I could use some guidance

texasGXP08

I'm afraid I don't have the manual but it's really easy. make sure you have a torx bit to remove the screw on the rotor.
Link to a do it yourself article from an older GP

Not exact instructions but close enough.

also, but sure to open your bleeder valve while you compress the caliper pistons.

Sittingmongoose

iTrader: (1)

there are a lot of videos online
http://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_t...ace_brakes.htm
i used that one and it worked out very well for me.

shogun95

Why should you open the bleeder valve? I've never done that when compressing calipers and have not had a problem that I am aware of. Just trying to learn something.

Ill_Born_ss

So that any contaminants and baked fluild are not forced back up the system to cause damage.

Red03GT

Sweet, thanks!

texasGXP08

Also, forcing fluid (a lot of it) back up the system may damage the master cylinder. I am speaking from experience, unfortunately. Just bleed it and top off the reservoir. Safest bet.

ernie_GP

I did mine last year just to get away from the brake dust -- see this cgp post

http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=4556195

I left the rotor alone as I didn't think turning was necessary and wasn't going look for someone that can turn drilled rotors so no torx needed. Also the bolts for caliper to bracket, and bracket to car are not torx like older cars. I didn't bleed some fluid, maybe I should have but I thought the car was new enough and there wouldn't be much fluid travel upstream. So far everything is great and no dust!!

Red03GT

Thanks for the links again. Rotors and pads were done Friday with help from my boy. Is there any chance of having got air in the system when the top was off the cylinder? Seems I have to push the pedal a lot harder now to slow it down and I don't have the same braking power as before.

Panther427

Usually air makes the pedal feel softer and squishy. Is that what your feeling

Red03GT

Yeah, I think so.

Panther427

You may have to bleed your brakes again.

WE TODD DID

iTrader: (2)

If you did not open the the bleeders, you shouldn't have any air in the system. It may be the pads that you used. Drive it for a bit and see if it doesn't get better.

JC05GXP

Like said above if you did open the bleeder then its air in the system. Also, did you burnish the pads? Do 8 stops from 35mph using moderate pressure , and 3 from 45mph using hard pressure. Let them cool and you'll be good to go.

Red03GT

Nah, I didn't open the bleeders. Yeah, I burnished the pads and let them cool off afterwards. I don't have the initial grab I did with the stock pads, I find myself having to use real hard pressure towards the end of the stop when I'm getting real close to the car in front of me lol. If I press, release, press the pedal again it seems to take out a bit of the slush and grabs better.

Pauls325

iTrader: (1)

once i get my rotors replaced or turned i was thinking about getting some ceramic pads im a little worried about warping things though anyone have experience?

neilownz

nature of the beast. dont they come with ceramics...

JC05GXP

The GXP's dont come with ceramics, but most everyone replaces their brakes with ceramics. I had the GM ceramics on my car from the previous owner, and just installed Hawk Ceramics with new Raybestos rotors on saturday. I had no issues with warping whatsoever.