am i crazy? (FI cam idea/question) cam experts come in
03-02-2009, 07:46 PM
#1
am i crazy? (FI cam idea/question) cam experts come in so i was messing around on dynosim 2003 and noticed that if i used a cam with these specs 234/254 .576/.595 that i picked up 187hp over my original cam specs (218/224 .550/.550) does anyone think this is worth a shot?
and the gain above was through 706 head flow specs i pulled off the internet
does anyone think this could work? cause i was thinking about getting one ground for me if it will
and the gain above was through 706 head flow specs i pulled off the internet
does anyone think this could work? cause i was thinking about getting one ground for me if it will
Last edited by nastychevelle; 03-02-2009 at 08:16 PM.
03-02-2009, 08:48 PM
#4
That is a lot bigger stick than your original cam. What LSA on both of them? You will definitely make more power with more lift and duration....and definitely shift your powerband up several hundred RPM. EXACTLY how much power you will pick up and how your power band will shift----only installing it will determine.
You will get endless opinions and "facts" about cam selection here, or on any forum for that matter. Only a REAL LIFE dyno will solve your mystery. Try it and post up. A $400 investment for 187hp sounds like a decently worthy gamble to me!
You will get endless opinions and "facts" about cam selection here, or on any forum for that matter. Only a REAL LIFE dyno will solve your mystery. Try it and post up. A $400 investment for 187hp sounds like a decently worthy gamble to me!
03-02-2009, 09:06 PM
#5
That is a lot bigger stick than your original cam. What LSA on both of them? You will definitely make more power with more lift and duration....and definitely shift your powerband up several hundred RPM. EXACTLY how much power you will pick up and how your power band will shift----only installing it will determine.
You will get endless opinions and "facts" about cam selection here, or on any forum for that matter. Only a REAL LIFE dyno will solve your mystery. Try it and post up. A $400 investment for 187hp sounds like a decently worthy gamble to me!
You will get endless opinions and "facts" about cam selection here, or on any forum for that matter. Only a REAL LIFE dyno will solve your mystery. Try it and post up. A $400 investment for 187hp sounds like a decently worthy gamble to me!
but what about lobes? xer/xfi/lsk/xe what should those be? what i had picked was both were XE and i also get to chose the LSA and intake centerline
would this be good?
234/254 .576/.595 both XE lobes and 114lsa?
03-02-2009, 09:43 PM
#6
i just did some other stuff and by using that cam i listed above and putting 2.02/1.60 valves in stock unported 706 heads im up 239hp/70tq im at 846hp @6500 and 704tq @ 6000 (the tq is a litte higher in the rpm range than i'd like it to be) but since thats from the cam and not from the boost do you think a 5.3 with stock bottom end besides arp rod bolts would hold it on a good tune?
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03-03-2009, 09:32 AM
#11
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I've played with some of those dynsim types of software and they really don't model the exhaust dynamics of a turbo car very well, i.e. I don't think there is anywhere to input turbine flow characteristics...I'd be leary of running somehting with so much exhaust duration
03-03-2009, 10:51 AM
#12
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I've played with some of those dynsim types of software and they really don't model the exhaust dynamics of a turbo car very well, i.e. I don't think there is anywhere to input turbine flow characteristics...I'd be leary of running somehting with so much exhaust duration
03-03-2009, 10:53 AM
#13
Thats huge duration and lots of lift for a 5.3 for sure. And usually most turbo guys go bigger on the lsa.. But as said there really needs to be some actual dyno tests to see what effects the various theories have in real life.
We have people that say reverse split is best, others normal split, others no split. Was have proponets for low lsa and higher lsa. Its generally agreed more lift is better but as you go too high past 600 you run into need to change out valve springs more often and possibly risk valve float if your springs can't keep it under control as boost can do that.
As for putting the power you mentioned thru a near stock 5.3...WELL GOOD LUCK!
I am nut sure what the stock 5.3 crank can take...a stock 6.0 iron block can take a lot and think a 346 or ls2 can also . I would for sure not cheap out and put in some decent rods and good pistons. At least then a tuning mistake won't take the ringlands out and the rods might hold up. Not an expert on the 5.3 so maybe they have different pistons and stronger rods but seems minimum strong rods and pistons are good idea at your desired power level.
Also remember you can't get much more power than max airflow the turbo can do so changing heads,cam ,compression, all that is only going to give more same max power but play around with the powerband under max power and let you run lower boost possibly to get max power. Course area under the curve will change a lot with different mods like cam and heads and all that and off boost power as well.
I guess build it ,dyno it and see how it holds together. There was this Rob Raymer guy few years back making big power and think running some great times with his stock or near stock engine car. Personally I like the peace of mind of knowing my pistons are forged especially after seeing many examples of blown ringlands in buddies stock engine FI builds.
We have people that say reverse split is best, others normal split, others no split. Was have proponets for low lsa and higher lsa. Its generally agreed more lift is better but as you go too high past 600 you run into need to change out valve springs more often and possibly risk valve float if your springs can't keep it under control as boost can do that.
As for putting the power you mentioned thru a near stock 5.3...WELL GOOD LUCK!
I am nut sure what the stock 5.3 crank can take...a stock 6.0 iron block can take a lot and think a 346 or ls2 can also . I would for sure not cheap out and put in some decent rods and good pistons. At least then a tuning mistake won't take the ringlands out and the rods might hold up. Not an expert on the 5.3 so maybe they have different pistons and stronger rods but seems minimum strong rods and pistons are good idea at your desired power level.
Also remember you can't get much more power than max airflow the turbo can do so changing heads,cam ,compression, all that is only going to give more same max power but play around with the powerband under max power and let you run lower boost possibly to get max power. Course area under the curve will change a lot with different mods like cam and heads and all that and off boost power as well.
I guess build it ,dyno it and see how it holds together. There was this Rob Raymer guy few years back making big power and think running some great times with his stock or near stock engine car. Personally I like the peace of mind of knowing my pistons are forged especially after seeing many examples of blown ringlands in buddies stock engine FI builds.
03-03-2009, 04:14 PM
#14
Thats huge duration and lots of lift for a 5.3 for sure. And usually most turbo guys go bigger on the lsa.. But as said there really needs to be some actual dyno tests to see what effects the various theories have in real life.
We have people that say reverse split is best, others normal split, others no split. Was have proponets for low lsa and higher lsa. Its generally agreed more lift is better but as you go too high past 600 you run into need to change out valve springs more often and possibly risk valve float if your springs can't keep it under control as boost can do that.
As for putting the power you mentioned thru a near stock 5.3...WELL GOOD LUCK!
I am nut sure what the stock 5.3 crank can take...a stock 6.0 iron block can take a lot and think a 346 or ls2 can also . I would for sure not cheap out and put in some decent rods and good pistons. At least then a tuning mistake won't take the ringlands out and the rods might hold up. Not an expert on the 5.3 so maybe they have different pistons and stronger rods but seems minimum strong rods and pistons are good idea at your desired power level.
Also remember you can't get much more power than max airflow the turbo can do so changing heads,cam ,compression, all that is only going to give more same max power but play around with the powerband under max power and let you run lower boost possibly to get max power. Course area under the curve will change a lot with different mods like cam and heads and all that and off boost power as well.
I guess build it ,dyno it and see how it holds together. There was this Rob Raymer guy few years back making big power and think running some great times with his stock or near stock engine car. Personally I like the peace of mind of knowing my pistons are forged especially after seeing many examples of blown ringlands in buddies stock engine FI builds.
We have people that say reverse split is best, others normal split, others no split. Was have proponets for low lsa and higher lsa. Its generally agreed more lift is better but as you go too high past 600 you run into need to change out valve springs more often and possibly risk valve float if your springs can't keep it under control as boost can do that.
As for putting the power you mentioned thru a near stock 5.3...WELL GOOD LUCK!
I am nut sure what the stock 5.3 crank can take...a stock 6.0 iron block can take a lot and think a 346 or ls2 can also . I would for sure not cheap out and put in some decent rods and good pistons. At least then a tuning mistake won't take the ringlands out and the rods might hold up. Not an expert on the 5.3 so maybe they have different pistons and stronger rods but seems minimum strong rods and pistons are good idea at your desired power level.
Also remember you can't get much more power than max airflow the turbo can do so changing heads,cam ,compression, all that is only going to give more same max power but play around with the powerband under max power and let you run lower boost possibly to get max power. Course area under the curve will change a lot with different mods like cam and heads and all that and off boost power as well.
I guess build it ,dyno it and see how it holds together. There was this Rob Raymer guy few years back making big power and think running some great times with his stock or near stock engine car. Personally I like the peace of mind of knowing my pistons are forged especially after seeing many examples of blown ringlands in buddies stock engine FI builds.
03-03-2009, 07:43 PM
#18
Thats huge duration and lots of lift for a 5.3 for sure. And usually most turbo guys go bigger on the lsa.. But as said there really needs to be some actual dyno tests to see what effects the various theories have in real life.
We have people that say reverse split is best, others normal split, others no split. Was have proponets for low lsa and higher lsa. Its generally agreed more lift is better but as you go too high past 600 you run into need to change out valve springs more often and possibly risk valve float if your springs can't keep it under control as boost can do that.
As for putting the power you mentioned thru a near stock 5.3...WELL GOOD LUCK!
I am nut sure what the stock 5.3 crank can take...a stock 6.0 iron block can take a lot and think a 346 or ls2 can also . I would for sure not cheap out and put in some decent rods and good pistons. At least then a tuning mistake won't take the ringlands out and the rods might hold up. Not an expert on the 5.3 so maybe they have different pistons and stronger rods but seems minimum strong rods and pistons are good idea at your desired power level.
Also remember you can't get much more power than max airflow the turbo can do so changing heads,cam ,compression, all that is only going to give more same max power but play around with the powerband under max power and let you run lower boost possibly to get max power. Course area under the curve will change a lot with different mods like cam and heads and all that and off boost power as well.
I guess build it ,dyno it and see how it holds together. There was this Rob Raymer guy few years back making big power and think running some great times with his stock or near stock engine car. Personally I like the peace of mind of knowing my pistons are forged especially after seeing many examples of blown ringlands in buddies stock engine FI builds.
We have people that say reverse split is best, others normal split, others no split. Was have proponets for low lsa and higher lsa. Its generally agreed more lift is better but as you go too high past 600 you run into need to change out valve springs more often and possibly risk valve float if your springs can't keep it under control as boost can do that.
As for putting the power you mentioned thru a near stock 5.3...WELL GOOD LUCK!
I am nut sure what the stock 5.3 crank can take...a stock 6.0 iron block can take a lot and think a 346 or ls2 can also . I would for sure not cheap out and put in some decent rods and good pistons. At least then a tuning mistake won't take the ringlands out and the rods might hold up. Not an expert on the 5.3 so maybe they have different pistons and stronger rods but seems minimum strong rods and pistons are good idea at your desired power level.
Also remember you can't get much more power than max airflow the turbo can do so changing heads,cam ,compression, all that is only going to give more same max power but play around with the powerband under max power and let you run lower boost possibly to get max power. Course area under the curve will change a lot with different mods like cam and heads and all that and off boost power as well.
I guess build it ,dyno it and see how it holds together. There was this Rob Raymer guy few years back making big power and think running some great times with his stock or near stock engine car. Personally I like the peace of mind of knowing my pistons are forged especially after seeing many examples of blown ringlands in buddies stock engine FI builds.
08-27-2009, 06:52 PM
#20
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Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but i'm pretty sure the 5.3 is the same crank as an ls1, which seems to be holding its own up to 1,000 HP.
5.3 = smaller bore, same stroke, same crank as ls1
5.3 = smaller bore, same stroke, same crank as ls1