Suspension & Brakes - ABS delete installed, new master & new hoses, still no back brakes??




9t8z28
03-07-2009, 09:28 PM
I installed a new rear in my 98 Camaro with ABS and TCS. After the install, I had no rear brakes so I figured that the ABS module now had air trapped in it. Since the ABS and TCS never worked, I figured that I might as well install the ABS delete kit from SJM. I installed it and bled the entire system 5 times and I still have no rear brakes.

Now I figured that the master went bad so I replaced it. I bench bled it 5 times while each time I would rotate it at a different angle. I then installed it and bled the entire system again. That still didn't fix the problem.

3 weeks later I found that (1) of the (2) rear hoses from the chassis to the rear was leaking. I replaced it and the two outer hoses. Bled system again! STILL NO REAR BRAKES!!!

I have cleaned all of the joints (front to back) with brake clean to make sure that I do not have anymore leaks and then dryed them off. I purchased a vacumm bleeder and bled the system another 5 times.

I have taken the car out on the street a dozen times. Each time I tested the brakes, I would smoke the front tires. Never at any time would my back brakes develope any heat! When I push the pedal down, it goes to the floor. Pumping them basically does nothing!

What is causing this?

Could both of my rear calipers be bad?

If I have a leak, will I neccasarily be able to see it? Meaning, if it is leaking, can it leak air into the system without leaking out brake fluid?

What kind of pedal feel should I have?


9t8z28
03-08-2009, 10:38 AM
bump... Please help!

9t8z28
03-10-2009, 08:22 PM
Brake bleeding questions are the worst! Of all of the searches I have done, I have found no valuable info. It is to much trial and error, but PLEASE, give me your thoughts or any suggestions!


Martin718
03-10-2009, 09:37 PM
If you have an air compressor start over with the process, leave the lines in place and disconnect at both ends, blow air through the lines, then make sure all your connections are tight and try bleeding again, if your pedal is weak and too the floor its still a pressure problem not calipeers yet. ALSO its not to uncommon to have one or even multiple faulty master cylinders so that is still a possibility.

9t8z28
03-11-2009, 09:07 AM
If you have an air compressor start over with the process, leave the lines in place and disconnect at both ends, blow air through the lines, then make sure all your connections are tight and try bleeding again, if your pedal is weak and too the floor its still a pressure problem not calipeers yet. ALSO its not to uncommon to have one or even multiple faulty master cylinders so that is still a possibility.

O.K., a funny thing happened, I got back my pedal pressure so my pedal feels correct. Except now I still do not have rear brakes.

Both calipers bad or could one bad caliper cause the other to not work?

SJM Manufacturing Inc
03-11-2009, 09:56 AM
One caliper will not cause the other to not fuction. They are independent of each other.

You can verify pressure at each caliper with a pressure guage, that would be a good place to start.

If you have pressure, check to see the caliper pistons and caliper move freely. You should be able to purchase a rebuild kit if need be.

9t8z28
03-14-2009, 07:33 PM
Well, I figured it out!!

After I borrowed $1K in snap-on pressure gauges, I found out that I was getting pressure all the way to just before the calipers. So in other words, I had pressure off of the master, t-fitting splitting into the (2) rear brake lines, chassis to rear connection and the rear line connection to outer caliper brake hose, but no pressure at the bleeder.

Well, I decided that since I had it all apart, I should swap the calipers since the brake hoses would probably fit better being mounted facing up than down. Sure enough, the calipers were on backwards! Bleeders always go up!! Of all cars I have worked on, very few of their calipers could be reversed! 5 weeks of bleeding and swapping parts and spending money!! WTF!!!

Lesson learned? ............ Yup, do not ever let your friend help unless they know what the F**K THEY ARE DOING!! Damnit, I even told him, keep the left pads and calipers seperate from the right pads!

9t8z28
03-14-2009, 07:40 PM
In case anyone is wondering, you should only expect to see around 1,700 psi at the rear bleeders with the adjustable proportioning valve all the way opened. You will not loose much, if any pressure from the master to the bleeders.

I did notice that I only had 1,600 psi on the left caliper and I had 1,700 on the right caliper. Why is that??

I took it out and layed on the brakes and almost popped my eyes out of my head! I still have the propertioning valve opened all the way. I still need to get on some wet pavement and adjust it some more.

Thanks Steve @ SJM for the help before and after the sale. Your advice is what lead me to finding my problem!

Brandon

SJM Manufacturing Inc
03-14-2009, 08:45 PM
In case anyone is wondering, you should only expect to see around 1,700 psi at the rear bleeders with the adjustable proportioning valve all the way opened. You will not loose much, if any pressure from the master to the bleeders.

I did notice that I only had 1,600 psi on the left caliper and I had 1,700 on the right caliper. Why is that??

I took it out and layed on the brakes and almost popped my eyes out of my head! I still have the propertioning valve opened all the way. I still need to get on some wet pavement and adjust it some more.

Thanks Steve @ SJM for the help before and after the sale. Your advice is what lead me to finding my problem!

Brandon

Glad that I could help you out. Regarding pressure variance, it should be equalized though there could be variance due a few things check to see if you still have problems with your lines, check to see if you have a leak, lastly, you may have air in the line with lower pressure. Air compresses differently than hydraulic fluid.