Ran my car today in the 1/8th mile, opinions please?

Old 03-09-2009, 06:17 AM
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Default Ran my car today in the 1/8th mile, opinions please?

Best time of the day was done by manually shifting the auto, launching off idle with the cone filter removed.

8.42@87 mph with a 2.1 60ft

car weighs between 3500-3600lbs, 3.42 12 bolt, stock stall in the 4l60e, no noticeable tire spin off the line

I hit the 6500rpm rev limiter going into 3rd right before the trap, I was shifting early hoping for it to actually shift 6000-6200 on the 1-2 since the tune has it shifting at 5700-5800 for some reason. The car will shift itself at 6000 on the 2-3.

I picked up 1.5 tenths and 2mph over the 2 previous runs of the day with the filter on and letting it shift itself. The slower of those 2 was when I tried loading up the converter to about 1300rpm and launching off that.

98 ls1
stock 99 heads
felpro gaskets
comp 230/224 111+3 on xe lobes
fast 90/90 ported by me just installed
pac springs
comp 7.4 pushrods
ported ls6 oil pump
long tube headers 1 3/4
2 1/4 dual exhaust ( have dual cutouts on them but didn't feel like crawling under the car today)

prior to the FAST swap my car dynoed 325rwhp/340rwtq with open cutouts which I think is low, but whatever

I still think it's slower than it should be but I'd like some other opinions
Old 03-09-2009, 07:01 AM
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Dont shift it manually, that could be one reason why it is bumping the limiter. Fact of the matter is the stock converter blows, especially with that cam and intake your running. I have my shift points at 6300 all gears with a 6600 limiter. Converter will wake the car up, my car ran a 7.9 with a 1.97 60' on street tires on the old tune shifting at 6k.
Old 03-09-2009, 09:56 AM
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Do you know what kind of power it's putting down? Most cammed LS1s I know of are around that same weight and trapping 90+ in the 1/8.
Old 03-09-2009, 02:02 PM
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It dynoed 325rwhp with open cutouts prior to the intake install. But it's hard to say because I was having a problem sometimes getting only 92% throttle that I hadn't found then and also the engine was constantly getting 2 degrees of knock retard.

I have replaced the knock sensors and fixed the throttle issue since then. Car feels a lot better above 4000rpm now.

On the dyno my power fell off at 5600, didn't carry out at all. Now she keeps pulling even harder all the way to the limiter. That's why I wanted to try holding the gears manually since the pcm short shifts so bad.

I think my biggest problem (besides the 60ft) is the mail order tune I'm running.
Old 03-09-2009, 02:17 PM
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It took about 3 tries to get my m.o tune right, send it back... Who is your m.o tuner? Did you put in the newer knock sensors (02)?
Old 03-09-2009, 03:21 PM
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Yes knock sensors are from a basically brand new 6.0 that a kind member offered me if I paid shipping. I used the harness from my brother's 99 5.3 we pulled from his truck.

I will send it back for a retune if I can find someone local to get me a wide band reading. I have a friend with hptuners so I can data log but I still need to know my WOT a/f then I'll pull it and send it back to Jesse and let him have another crack at it.

The car runs sooo much cleaner with the FAST than the ls1 intake that I think he did my tune for the ls6 intake I told him I was planning to buy.

All said though if my weight guess for the car is even close and the calculator I used is right then my car should be coming in right around 344rwhp based on my trap. This would mean the car has picked up 20hp since the dyno run. Only major change was the fast install. (if the car actually was hitting above 95% throttle on my dyno pulls)
Old 03-09-2009, 03:35 PM
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Forgot to add based on this: http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-...calculator.php

Our corrected d/a was 2099 yesterday
Old 03-09-2009, 04:29 PM
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I took mine to the track last weekend, ran multiple 8.40s on just the motor (7.76 @ 89.9 mph on 120 shot) Stock engine except ls6 intake and volant CAI, with headers mail order tune and a 9 inch. Mine is a 6 speed but I would expect better numbers from yours, especially since you have swapped the cam and have a fast setup.
what were your 60 ft numbers? You were not running on street tires right?
I bet that stock converter is really whats hurting you.
Old 03-09-2009, 04:48 PM
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yes street tires, but they hook very well (as a 10.5 in contact patch planted with traction bars should) since the car doesn't build real torque until 3200 rpm, after that it pulls great until it hits ~4200 then it REALLY seems to wake up even more now that I have the fast, before it just pulled steady from 3k up and kinda leveled off before each shift, now it just pulls harder and harder the higher it spins

I need to get my cold air setup ready, right now its pulling in hot air from the bay unless I'm on the highway, but even then a friend watched with a scanner and as soon as I nail it the IATs start cooling down 5-10 degrees more just because the air is moving faster

I ran real close with a pully, cai, bassani full exhaust terminator my first run...he pulled me off the line but about half track I had slowed his pull to a near stop and he finished 1.8 tenths quicker than me, his mph didn't show up on my slip for some reason but he said it dynoed 432rwhp
Old 03-09-2009, 04:49 PM
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I say get a real tune. Whats the elevation there also? That may play a role in the slow times. I would be pissed if thats all the power it made. Something is wrong, I say do a compression check and a leak down test to see if the problem is there.
Old 03-09-2009, 06:11 PM
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I have not been happy, but at the same time I have an auto with a 12 bolt and upgraded axles, and some monster tires and wheels from the 60s that are likely not the lightest things on the road. So I'm keeping an open mind.

A friend is buying a wide band o2 sensor, so once he gets that in I am going to check my a/f and do some data logs with hptuners my friend has and send the pcm back if everything looks bad.

In talks with another member here we think the MAF tables are off a decent amount as the car sees low grams per sec airflow through the maf readings. Before I was running high 290s grams/sec WOT, now with the fast I'm up to 310-315 grams/sec.

He said a car with a ls6 intake often flows 330+ grams/sec.

Elevation at the track is a couple hundred feet, we had 18% humidity and it was 80degrees. According to the d/a corrector I found I would have been doing high 7 second passes corrected. But I don't know how much all that plays into things...some people call it legit and others call it "ricer math". Based on my corrected times/mph the car would be closer to 365-370 rwhp.

Until I get the car weighed there's no way to be accurate, I'm just making an educated guess based on that the car weighed 3740 with 1/2 tank before the swap. I swapped the all iron 350/700r4 combo with the ls1/4l60e combo and I also pulled ALL the a/c components (compressor, condensor, lines, evaporater, ect...so I could put the pcm inside the a/c box on the firewall). So I would say the car with 3/4 tank should weigh in at around 3500lbs, maybe a little more.
Old 03-14-2009, 08:17 PM
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man you need a stall and a good tune. my buddies car with a lid and catback only ran 8.4 @ 84. sorry to **** on your parade but those times are def. not good for a cammed car. altitude could be a factor i guess but your nearly running what most good running stock cars run. get a 4k stall, 410 gears and dyno tune and see if that doesnt wake that thing up.
Old 03-15-2009, 07:46 PM
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Something doesn't add up here. My car, cam only, stalled A4 ran 7.8 1/8 mile last season and has 130k miles. 6.7's on a 200 shot.
Old 03-15-2009, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 02 BLK WS6
Something doesn't add up here. My car, cam only, stalled A4 ran 7.8 1/8 mile last season and has 130k miles. 6.7's on a 200 shot.
you prolly had much lower than 2.1 60ft and might even weigh less to boot though

I am going to get a stall and tune as soon as I can but the gears are staying...this is a daily driver car

my mph isn't terrible though, but I'm going to weigh the car sometime this week if I can find a good place
Old 03-16-2009, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 02 BLK WS6
Something doesn't add up here. My car, cam only, stalled A4 ran 7.8 1/8 mile last season and has 130k miles. 6.7's on a 200 shot.
Something doesn't add up with yours. My cam only LT1 car ran a 7.8 last weekend.
Old 03-16-2009, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by buzz12586
Something doesn't add up with yours. My cam only LT1 car ran a 7.8 last weekend.
It's called a worn out and tired motor with a converter that is too small for my cam on motor. 1.82 60' on motor, 1.52 60' on the jug.

**edit** Full weight plus 6 point ms roll bar.
Old 03-16-2009, 09:39 AM
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my opinion:

the car is way down on power and it appears to be the tune. you have the necessary parts to easily trap 90+, even with a 3500lb car. for comparison my 00 z28 with a 3650 +/- raceweight went 7.6 @ 88 with bolt-ons, 373 gears, 4k stall and a tune. my wife's 99 ws6 went 87 in the 1/8 with a lid and weld in flowmaster 80 series.

as mentioned already - get a *real tune. that car should wake up to the tune of about 75whp and 8 mph.
Old 03-16-2009, 10:39 AM
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The stall converter will put you in your power band, and you will not only 60' better bet will MPH better. The shift extension will help keep you higher in the rpms as well. Dyno numbers don't mean anything at all. Your car is built for higher rpms, but doesnt have the ability to stay in its power range. Get the converter and see what it does. From there if it is still not running that well then look into a good dyno tune, and maybe even seafoam, change oil, fuel filter, and plugs and wires.
Old 03-16-2009, 01:52 PM
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thanks for the ideas guys, I've always thought the car seemed down on power but at the same time it seems unlikely I would gain a ton with just a tune since the car seems to run well

I cannot find anything mechanically wrong with it at all and my dyno graph was smooth

I have been told the cam is going to do about 10rwhp less than the TR cam it was based on due to lobe profiles

but hopefully soon I can borrow a wide band and my friend and I can work on the tune in HP Tuners or I can log and send the info in for a free retune through wait4me
Old 03-16-2009, 03:49 PM
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I would recommend to have Jeremy Formato do your tune.

Also, like everyone else has said.... you NEED to be a tq converter in that car. Your car will wake up Drastically once you put the converter in it. My car went from running 13.5 @ 103 w/ 2.0 60' to running 12.5 @ 106 w/ 1.7 60' by putting in a converter and some sticky tires.... keeping everything else the same. This was when I was completely stock (other than lid) all the way back to the WS6 exhaust.

http://www.fasterproms.net/index.html

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