NocturnalLT1

Hey I'd like to start by introducing myself. My name is Jeremy and my 94 z28 was my first car when I turned 17. Ive had her now for 8 years and am now able to start giving her some much needed tlc. Im am going to start by pulling the engine because every seal is leaking from a lot of time sitting. Before I do I was planning on doing a leakdown/compression test to find out her unseen health. One question is, what numbers should I be looking for to say everything is sealed tight? Assuming its in good condition I was going to be putting on some bolt on mods (58mm TB, Longtubes, CAI,) as long as fixing the leaking seals. Also wanted to upgrade the intake mani so was wondering which one is my best bet? (lt4, ported stock?) Also will be bolting on one of the LE packages as soon as I decide on one. A couple things that I already have done to the car is a street/strip 4l60e rebuild, 3200 stall, and cutout. Nothing major and she's basically stock so looking forward to giving her some love. If you cant tell the car is very sentimental so if you have any suggestions on other things I should do, it would be appreciated. Thanks

xx_ED_xx

iTrader: (17)

IT would be easier to do comp and leak down with motor outside of car.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

How many miles? If its a lot, you may want to consider picking up a new short block or rebuilding the old one while it's out. If its not too many, a compression and leak down test will tell you it's condition. I don't remember exactly but I thought it was something like 180-190, but more importantly, you want all of the cylinders to be consistent.

Don't get a new intake mani, port the stocker only when you are going to install the heads/cam package. On that same note, don't install the 58mm TB until you install the heads/cam package also. I'd just get it leak free and reinstalled with LT's and a CAI. That should really wake it up.

NocturnalLT1

mileage is about 110xxx btw

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

If the motor is coming out for a rebuild anyhow, I'd take the opportunity to have it
honed, install a nice set of forged pistons and fresh rings/bearings. A new set of rods
with better fasteners will allow the engine to tolerate more RPM. You could also bring
the deck down to .005" and optimize quench. Between deck height, gasket choice and
piston selection, you can easily get your compression exactly where you want it.
(Somewhere between 11.0 and 11.5 will be excellent for a typical LE2 setup on premium pump gas)

Don't waste your time/money on an aftermarket manifold.
Have LE port the stock one to match the heads and support the TB of your choice.

With a fresh bottom end, you're in a position to make the most of your H/C/I install.
You won't be able to wipe the grin off your face once you have your foot buried deep in the carpet.

Like ss.slp.ls1 said, remember to compliment the H/C/I install with a good cold air intake,
free-flowing exhaust and a good tune.

cgroh89

iTrader: (15)

stroke it

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Hmm I thought it was something like no more or less than 10% of the average.

cgroh89

iTrader: (15)

You know re reading it that sounds right I just copy and pasted it from Alldata Online. Ill check in mitchell tomorrow. I also have a Factory 93 lt1 book

cgroh89

iTrader: (15)

Just checked out Mitchell and it says the same thing

NocturnalLT1

If it passes leakdown/compression tests, would i be safe it just doing the H/C/I or should I refresh the bottom end since she has about 110k on her?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Entirely up to you. Some wouldn't give it a second thought at 150k+ miles, some would rebuild it first with 100k on the clock. It's up to you. If your oil pressure is strong, I wouldn't be too concerned.