ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

I just installed most of the bell housing bolts and I want to make sure that the stall has not slid forward during the trans install. After all, this was done on my garage floor and there is a chance it moved with all of the moving around of the trans to get it lined up with the motor. When I installed the stall into the trans I did make sure I did the three engagements.

How do I rotate or push in the stall now to make sure it is still all the way in??? I tried moving the stall with a screwdriver through the large inspection cover hole but it didnt move. THANKS.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

It should move pretty easily if it does not then its not all the way in. The screw driver should have moved it unless the trans is still at and angle.

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

Are the bellhousing bolts tight? And the converter doesn't move?

wzup1000

iTrader: (17)

If this is the case, DO NOT start the car! Pull the trans back out and make sure the converter is seated correctly. I have personally learned this lesson the hard way, and the problem was that the converter wasnt seated correctly and took out the pump. Needless to say a full rebuild followed that mistake.

wzup1000

iTrader: (17)

Also, did you stand the trans up on the tailshaft to install the converter?

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

The belhousing bolts are not all in yet. Only 5 of 8 are in. Do I need to tighten all 8 and then see if the converter moves?

Shouldn't the converter still move even with only 5 of 8 bolts installed? THANKS.

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

Could the trans be at an angle because only 5 of 8 bolts are in?

I should note that the trans did not line up flush. The bottom two bolts went in fine, but the dowel pins and other bolt holes had gaps on both sides. It was a PITA trying to get the trans and motor flush with a trans jack on my garage floor. Basically I have been pulling them flush with each bolt installed. I am guessing I need to pull the trans back out, reseat the converter and try again. Is that correct? THANKS.

12secSS

iTrader: (30)

Loosen all the bolts back up, you are risking damage to the trans pump or converter. The converter should spin freely from the moment you are ready to mate it to the engine, until after all the bolts are tightened. If it binds you have a problem. You should be able to spin the converter with one finger through the starter opening very easily.

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

If I loosen all the bolts is there a good way to move the converter back without pulling the trans out completely? Thanks.

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

Yes exactly what 12secSS said.
In addition, you might get lucky and be able to move the converter back. It's hard to say right now if you did any damage. The best advice would be to take the trans out, remove the converter, inspect it and the shafts, turn the pump with a small screwdriver, put the converter back in, turn it and listen for any weird noises.

Then when you put it back in try to align the engine and trans good before you push them together, get the mounting surfaces squared up, push them together as tight as you can get them without bolts, turn the converter.

I like to install the two bolts right above the dowel pins first, then the two (one on each side) below the dowel pins. Pull them together evenly while you turn the converter frequently.

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

I wasn't able to move the converter back without removing the trans.

Is it possible that I will be able to put the trans in by myself with a trans jack? My friend that helped me last week is going to be out of town this weekend. I really want to get this car back on the road.

I am going to see if I can rent some bigger jack stands so that I can get my car up higher and put the trans on the jack before sliding it under the car. When I did it on Saturday I couldn't get the car very high, so I slid the jack under the car first and then the trans under the car. Then I put the trans on the jack while it was under the car. Then I put the converter in and jacked up the trans. It was a real pain to try to get it lined up with the motor.

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

I've done it several times. It really depends on you. If you're 6'2" and 280 like my nephew it may be a problem, and if you're 105 and 5'4" it may also be a problem.

I put my converter in with the car on ramps, and the trans on a floor jack.
Now that was a converter only swap, I left it on the jack. When I take the whole trans out it's a major SOB to get the trans under the car, then get it back on the jack.
I never have help, I never ask for it.
You did check the o-ring on the input shaft right?

If you're going to bust your *** getting it in there I hope for your sake it's all in good working order.

This is my set up for the converter only. Good Luck.

SpecV44

iTrader: (7)

We put the 4L60E into our 98 LS1 Jimmy ~7 times, using a floor jack each time, between 3 different transmissions, no issues. We actually got so good at it, that it would take us 1.5 hours from start to finish, including removing exhaust/wiring, and reinstalling everything.

This is in your z28 with an LS1, right? The Jimmy has a 1999 LQ4 in it, and the crank sticks out .44" MORE than the other LS motors, we DIDNT know this. So we used the bolts to pull the trans up to the motor, thus pushing the converter through the pump. It took us 4 hours to get the converter out of the transmission, and required a light post, a tree, 2 ratchet straps, a come-along, and a big hammer. It was not fun.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

I am 6 ft and about 250 ( working on that) I have on many occasions forgone the jack put then on my chest and pressed them up using my arms and knees. Not the most comfortable way to do it for sure lol.

smokintiresz28

Im gonig to put mine back in myself ,but BE CAREFUL a friend broke his arm and has limited movement in that arm now because of a tranny falling off the jack so if u can get help get it.

crzytown69

iTrader: (17)

**** im 6'2 300 pounds and i still fit comfy under the car and i use one of these bad boys

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=39178

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

Well I just pulled the trans all of the way back out. I then sat it on the tailshaft (on cardboard) and installed the converter as far as it would go by rotating it and trying to push it in. The snout of the converter sits about 1/2" higher than the bellousing. What the f*%k??? I read that the converter lugs should be about an inch below the bellhousing when seated all the way. Why would my converter not seat all the way into the trans. The trans o-ring, input shaft, and converter hub all look fine. The converter does have a new hub on it because it was just cut and cleaned and had the bearings, lockup clutch, and hub replaced because of damge done by the prior trans after a pump failure.

Any ideas on why the converter will not seat correctly? I tried seating it in the old trans and the new trans and the converter still appears to not seat all the way. As I said the snout of the converter is 1/2" higher than the bellhousing. THANKS.

crzytown69

iTrader: (17)

bro i think you have the wrong converter dont get offended but thats kinda a shabby looking setup... i mean its black painted over blue ?

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

It's not the wrong converter. It worked fine for 25,000 miles in the previous trans before the pump went out. A sponser painted black after doing a cut and clean and replacing the hub, lockup clutch and bearings. The only reason you see the blue is because I was trying to move the converter with a screwdriver when bolting up the trans.

Magic Man

All I know is every converter I've did they move back then you rotate as press and they go the 2nd time .If you can get your fingers between back of converter and tranny it's not in far enough.If you don't get engine and bell housing lined up they won't go together if converter is on right or not.