bboyferal

iTrader: (9)

Hey guys, maybe you can help.

I'm nowhere near HAVING to sell my car yet... But every day things are looking worse for my wife and me... Both our jobs have taken a HUGE hit, and I'm always looking at different "emergency" financial strategies, but I have little idea as to what I'd get for my car if I wanted to sell it.

It has maybe 5k miles on the drivetrain... 35k miles on the body. The car is a one of nine, the rarest combo for 2002 (MRM color PLUS convertible).

The motor is built, the tranny/clutch/rear is built, the car is clean.

Any estimates are appreciated. I'll post a long spec sheet here if you're interested, as well as some pics and videos.

Thanks guys.



2002 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am Convertible
Maple Red Metallic Exterior – Taupe Top/Leather Interior
5.7 LS1 V8 Six-Speed Manual
One of Nine MRM TA Convertibles (2002 Firebird Production Build Numbers)

Registered with the Pontiac Historical Society in 2004


Engine/Fuel:
-Forged 346 cid/5.7L, 8.5:1 CR, GM Gen III Aluminum small-block LS1 V8
-Mahle -15cc Dished Pistons
-Cat Power Connecting Rods 6.125 H-Beam
-LS6 Factory Crankshaft
-Comp Cams Camshaft 224/228 .581/.588 116 LSA
-Comp Cams Hi-Tech Roller Timing Chain Set
-GM MLS Head Gaskets
-LQ9 72cc Chambered 6.0L Aluminum Heads
-ARP Head Studs
-Crane Double-Valve Springs
-TR 7.400" Chrome-Moly Pushrods
-LS6 Intake Manifold
-LS6 Throttle Body
-LS6 Valley Cover
-Steel Braided fuel lines
-Mocal Heavy-Duty engine oil pump
-2002 LS1 Factory PCM
-2 bar MAP Sensor
-Aeromotive 1000 Fuel Rails
-Mototron 60 lb. Fuel Injectors
-Twin In-Tank Walbro 340’s 255 Liter/Hour Fuel Pumps
-LS1 Factory Coil Packs
-Snow Performance Stage 2 Methanol Injection System, 50/50 VP M1 methanol/water
-LS1 Factory Radiator w/ Flex-a-Lite thin profile fans, one pusher & one puller
-Hypertech 160 Thermostat
-Hoalt 160 amp HD Alternator
-Optima Red Top Engine Battery
-NGK TR-6 Spark Plugs
-MSD Plug Wires
-Taylor Sliver High-Temperature Wire Boot Covers
-Engine Oil Cooler
-Mobil 1 Synthetic 15w-50 Engine Oil
-K & N Gold Oil Filter
-AC Delco Antifreeze (orange version)/distilled water, 50/50 mix
-AC Delco Brake/Clutch Fluids
-ALL factory accessories retained: PS, A/C, Foglights, etc

Turbo System and Exhaust:
-Pro Turbo Systems A2A Tubular Headers Kit w/ 3” Downpipe into Y-pipe/cat back
-Turbonetics T-76GTQ turbocharger w/ 0.96 A/R Exhaust Housing
-MAC high-flow Air Filter for Intake Cold Pipe
-Forced Inductions High Temperature Turbo Blanket for Exhaust Housing
-TurboSmart Progate 38mm Wastegate
-TurboSmart Manual Boost Controller
-Turbosmart Type 3 Megasonic Blow Off Valve
-Steel Braided Oil Lines
-Hi-Flo Electric Oil Scavenger Pump
-Endyn Catch Can/Breather set-up
-Air-to-Air Front Mounted Intercooler
-SLP Loudmouth Cat Back Exhaust w/ 3” slant-tips single exits
-No catalytic converters or mufflers

Interior/Gauges:
-Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Fuel Pressure (0-100 PSI) 2 1/16"
-Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Boost (15 PSI) 2 1/16"
-Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Wideband A/F Ratio 2 1/16"
-Triple Pod Driver A-Pillar w/ diagnostic LED’s for methanol + kill switch
-Escort Radar Detector
-Full factory interior

Brakes/Suspension:
-Powerslot Slotted Rotors
-Hawk HPS Brake Pads
-LS1 Factory lines, Hydraulics, and calipers
-BMR Springs
-Koni SA Adjustable Shock Absorbers
-BMR Subframe Connectors
-BMR Strut Tower Brace
-BMR Lower Control Arms
-BMR X-Treme HD adjustable Torque Arm
-BMR Adjustable Panhard Rod
-LS1 Factory F-body Sway Bars

Drivetrain:
-Hurst Black Leather **** Factory Shifter
-Textralia Exo-Skel Twin Disk Clutch w/ Billet Steel Flywheel
-Moser Engineering F-body 12 Bolt Rear Differential w/ 30 Spline US Gear/Eaton Posi
-12mm Wheel Studs, 3.42 Gear Ratio, ABS set-up w/ 3-channel exciter ring on Posi
-EPP heavy duty Driveshaft
-BMR Sway Bar Mount Kit
-Sixspeedsinc. Stage 4 T-56 Manual Transmission w/ Viper output shaft
-LS1 Factory Lines and Hydraulics

Wheels/Tires:
-4 AFS Corvette Grand Sports, 17 x 9.5’s, Gloss Black Powder Coat and Clear Coat
Nitto NT555 Extreme ZR 275/40ZR-17 tires (Fronts)
Nitto NT555R Extreme Drag 275/40R-17 drag radials (Rears)
-2 Summit Stars Drag Wheels, 15 x 8’s, Gloss black (Alternate for rears)
Mickey Thompson ET Drag 26.0/10.0-15 slicks

Appearance:
-High Temperature Black Enamel on Brake Calipers
-“Trans Am” Reflective Decals on Front Brake Calipers
-“Trans Am” Black/Reflective Door Overlays
-“Pontiac” Black/Reflective Rear Overlay
-Black/Reflective Phoenix Emblem Front License Plate Cover Overlay
-Custom Black Mesh Front License Plate Cover Grill for airflow to FMIC
-Gloss Black Painted Rear Bumper Lower Valance
-CETA Black Phoenix Emblem Wheel Center Caps for AFS wheels
-Three times Clay Bar Applied
-Constant healthy applications of Pure Polishes/Glazes
-Constant healthy coats of Carnauba/Synthetic Waxes
-Clearcoat not reduced yet, i.e. no cutting polishes, compounds, etc.

Statistics:
-Power output: 700 rwhp low boost/pump gas+methanol tune
-Engine redline: Limiter set @6.5k RPM
-Boost pressure: Currently set @16 PSI w/ warning light







































50-120 mph fourth gear blast then hard braking




Cruising:




Dumping 10 psi under a bridge

LuvmyC5

iTrader: (1)

I don't know what it's worth, but I just had to say that it's a Beautiful car!

I Hope that things pick up for you and your wife!

bboyferal

iTrader: (9)

Thanks dude... Yeah, I hope I don't ever have to sell it!

Bump.

LuvmyC5

iTrader: (1)

You're Welcome!

Bump for you.

By the way, Very Nice ad too!

gt35built

iTrader: (1)

25k around there.

I think thats about what it would go for. looks like a sweet car with alot of nice parts. but the used car market really sucks so what it might be worth may be different from what it will sell for.

always the option to part out but its a hassle.

badpanda

iTrader: (4)

IMO 25K is a dream.

Dont get me wrong, its not that the car is not worth, it is simply that I know / have talked to sellers with similiar mods who cannot get 20k for their rides. This is not to say that it might not happen, its just that it is not probable.

I could go into detail about the economy, trying to get a loan from a bank etc etc blah blah... but I am sure that I would not be telling you anything new.

HOWEVER you did make it clear that you do not need the cash, which puts you in the drivers seat. What I would suggest is that if you think that you may at some point need the funds from selling the vehicle in the future, start trying to sell it now. That way you can take your time and try to sell it for a price that is more in the range of what you are looking to get. Too often people try to unload their toy cars when its already too late and they need the money immediately. There are many factors working against such a seller, which include the facts that

1. People are not spending as much money on toys/ allowing themselves to be stretched thin financially. A 700+ rwhp vehicle is not going to be in the minds of many buyers. In addition, you own a very specific (model, build, vert) vehicle, this too will eliminate some potential buyers.

2. Sellers who are forced to sell often times look desperate and a smart buyer will pick up on this and put the squeeze on your asking price even more. In addition, alot of times you will see a desperate seller repeatedly reduce their asking price in the hopes of attracting a buyer.

The great thing about not being forced to sell is that you can still put it up for sale and always change your mind later! All the low-ball offers you will get (and trust me.. there will be many) will just bounce off of you because you dont need to sell. At least by getting the car out there you are opening yourself up to the option of selling it and putting some money in the bank.

Also, dont just advertise your car on ls1tech. A good number of the people on this site cannot afford or wouldnt follow through with a large purchase (20k+) for a T/A. Personally I have always had luck with Autotrader. Just pay a couple bucks for their "run till it sells" advertisment option and you can just sit back and forget about it (You only need to click a link once every 3 months to tell them that your car is indeed still for sale). As stated before, this way you can just see if there is anybody out there for the price you want. If there are no biters and you want or are forced to lower the price, you always have that option.

In conclusion, you asked what a good price would be for your vehicle, and given all the factors in our marketplace (including the very low prices of a c5 Z06 or C6), I would hope for around 20k or a bit more if you can find the right buyer. However if the financial pressure is put on you, I imagine that you would have the let it go for much lower for a quick sale.

Just my .02, so don't forget the salt.

bboyferal

iTrader: (9)

Parting it out? OUCH!!! That would be a nightmare from home with my son (18 months) right now... Maybe if I had a two car garage... I only have room for my car (single car garage).

badpanda, all your points make a strong argument toward quickly initiating a sale, even if "just in case," than trying to sell it quickly after figuring out that I MUST sell it. In the former, I can always back out of the sale in case I don't need to sell it at all anymore, but if I must follow through, I would get the highest amount possible. In the latter, I will get even much less than the predicted "low" amount... The trick is in avoiding the financial pressure... I totally understand. You're completely right.

That's kind of why I wanted to start this thread... I wanted to start opening up my options "just in case."

Numbers look reasonable... I know I can't expect to wait until I need to sell it, then list it for sale and expect to get 25k for it within the month... I'm gonna need to be careful... Thanks for the input fellas!!!