GXPPOWER

Just how hard would this be? i got side swiped a while back. and it dented in my rear quarter panel and i was just wondering if there is anyway i myself could take it off and try my hand at pushing the dents out. I really dont feel like paying 2,000 dollars to have a dent popped out in my driver side rear quarter panel and my Door if i am able to manage it and do a decent job.


Also if there is anyone here who knows anyone near the Crossett, AR Area who is good at body work and wont charge an arm and a leg feel free to send me a message

Mike Broadway

Do you have any pics, & where do you live? I have been in the Body shop business for over 25 years, will need pics to try & help !!

GXPPOWER

will get pics for you now

GXPPOWER

and here is another angle

torquejunky

iTrader: (10)

to remove the quarter it has to be cut off then a new one welded in its place. those dents don't look too bad I have seen much worse pulled with a stud gun and a slide hammer..

LS1-MEX

just pull off your wheel...drill a small hole in the fender well and stick a small rod in there and push the dent out.......

torquejunky

iTrader: (10)

Ummm...How about nooo.
How would you even get to the lower panel by the door, you would have to drill multiple holes just to get the larger dent out.
Go to Harbor freight and spend a couple bucks and do it right.
BTW thats not a fender (its a quarter panel) so there is no fender well, only trucks have those anyways....

GXPPOWER

how do those work/ like is it welding a small plate in place for something to pull on to pop the panel back out? if so how will i remove that spot welded part? never done or seen it before

DriftR

iTrader: (4)

I have never used a stud gun but I think it arc welds the studs to the sheetmetal (no plate) so you can pull out the dents, then you cut/grind them off and finish with minimal body filler/sanding/prime,etc...

torquejunky

iTrader: (10)

Its a gun that you put these little studs in and it welds them to the car. then you attach the slide hammer and pull the slide back against a stop and it will pull the dent out a little at a time. You need to remove all paint down to the metal so you can get good penetration on the welds. When pulling it out you tap around the outside of the dent with a body hammer. When done you grind off the studs and make everything straight with bondo. I'm sure if you google "using a stud welder" or something you can find a writeup or video.
Sounds daunting to a newbie to paint/body but its going to be MUCH easier than sectioning in a new quarter..
Just remember pull the dent out in the opposite order it went in...

sictransit00

iTrader: (2)

Before you use the stud gun you have to strip the paint down to the sheet metal, it wont weld through the paint layers. I had a dent the size of a basketball on my quarter, with the right tools and know how you can do it yourself.

samson_420

iTrader: (1)

Just a question.

What would be more cost effective, purchasing the tools (stud gun, slide hammer, a few good mallets and other matterials) then get it paint matched?

To, just taking to a body shop.


What would the cost be for something of this size in a body shop?

Mike Broadway

Sorry I didn't get back sooner I got SICK, a dent fix gun will fix that easy. Where are you located? I would not drill any holes if you don't have to. Let me know if I can help. Thanks Mike

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

can't he remove the speaker and massage the dent with a massage tool like paintless folks use for big high dent also for lower dent?

also at work we have computer tile floor we use a major suction cup to pull up these heavy floor tiles maybe worth a shot.

I'm not a body man but know a little. I don;t think you have to romove that quarter panel to fix.

good luck

GXPPOWER

see my initial idea is also to find a large suction cup. well ive tried looking around my car but the dent is further back then the rear speakers and so far cant find a way to get to the dent its like 2 layers of metal clamped together and hollow inside, what is a dent gun? heh

John V

The best and easiest way to repair the panel is using a stud welder: http://www.hsautoshot.com/ is the professional tool. You don't make any holes in the panel, the heat shrinks the streched panel, and there is very little filler needed. The studs are nipped off with a pair of diagonal cutters and the tip ground off. I've used thousands of studs and it's the easiest way to do the repair correctly. Grind the crease down to bare metal. Run a line of studs along the crease every 3/4 to 1" and begin pulling first in the deepest part of the crease and work out to the ends. Don't over pull and use a straight edge to make sure you are not pulling too much. The slide hammer is given a good whack on the pull.

If you weld a tab onto the metal and pull there you will strech the metal even more and have an oil can that is next to impossible to fill and sand.

A suction cup will not work, nor will the tools used by a dentless paint repair shop.

Replacing the 1/4 panel takes about 12 hours after you have done several, requires special tools (spotweld cutter, cutoff wheel, mig welder), and you still have the cost of the panel. And you end up having to paint a lot more too.

There isn't a quick miracle repair, if there were then the insurance companies would only pay the cost of that repair.