Who all has disabled Burst Knock?
03-20-2009, 08:25 PM
#3
once im sure my afr's are good, they will be zerod out for me aswell, because my car enjoys pulling timing.
Chris
03-20-2009, 09:06 PM
#4
Do you not have a wideband?
03-23-2009, 10:33 AM
#6
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I wonder if this is my problem. I have been looking at why I get some KR. Sometimes my timing is really low and I still get some KR with 91 and meth. My AFR looked good, and I am never in a lot of boost when I seem to be getting the KR...
03-23-2009, 10:50 AM
#7
If it shows knock on the KR PID its not burst knock, burst knock is an alltogether different PID that dosent even use the knock sensors. You can set up in your main table to log if you want to see if your getting any but it wont show up on the KR PID. If you are showing KR and you dont suspect its real it may be the exhaust hitting the body somewhere or something like that. I had to disable my knock sensors all together, I have solid engine mounts and my rear suspension is all metal rod ends (very noisy too) where rubber used to be. Didnt want to get rid of the knock sensors but I was forced too.
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03-23-2009, 11:08 AM
#8
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If it shows knock on the KR PID its not burst knock, burst knock is an alltogether different PID that dosent even use the knock sensors. You can set up in your main table to log if you want to see if your getting any but it wont show up on the KR PID. If you are showing KR and you dont suspect its real it may be the exhaust hitting the body somewhere or something like that. I had to disable my knock sensors all together, I have solid engine mounts and my rear suspension is all metal rod ends (very noisy too) where rubber used to be. Didnt want to get rid of the knock sensors but I was forced too.
I have always heard about people reducing the sensitivity of the knock sensor in boosted cars, but I am not sure about doing that. You said you disable the sensor all together? It does seem to pull a lot of timing though, and I do not think it is actual KR.
03-23-2009, 11:21 AM
#9
Yeah, it does look like it is not the burst knock, but maybe it is just false knock. I guess maybe it is just false knock... I thought it might have used the same PID.
I have always heard about people reducing the sensitivity of the knock sensor in boosted cars, but I am not sure about doing that. You said you disable the sensor all together? It does seem to pull a lot of timing though, and I do not think it is actual KR.
I have always heard about people reducing the sensitivity of the knock sensor in boosted cars, but I am not sure about doing that. You said you disable the sensor all together? It does seem to pull a lot of timing though, and I do not think it is actual KR.
I tuned a 99 5.3L silverado once and man that thing had some crazy false knock! It shouldnt have either, it ran & drove smooth, I never advanced the timing one bit. I tried pulling a little timing just to make sure it wasnt real knock and it still had the same amount of KR. I did some research and learned that false knock was an issue on that year truck. You could just have a screwy knock sensor, did you notice if the car had any knock N/A?
08-08-2011, 06:13 PM
#10
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**** guys sorry to bring up an old thread but i think this is my problem. Hummer like u stated i have 2-4* all the way throught boost.
Question is what should i zero out both of othe burst knock table in hptuners?
Question is what should i zero out both of othe burst knock table in hptuners?
08-10-2011, 09:37 AM
#13
Yes that fixed my problem. Another thing also to look at is the IAT advance table, my little 76 with .96 AR really heats up the air when I try to make 13#s or more. To run more boost without the timing being cut way back I started to pull a degree out of the retard portion of the table one degree at a time.
Bear in mind that the whole time I'm doing this at the track while running pure C16 & watching my trap speed making sure I dont see the mph decrease like it does right before it would detonate. I ended up pulling all the retard out & by the end of the night the car was trapping 5.5mph faster than the first pass that night.
Bear in mind that the whole time I'm doing this at the track while running pure C16 & watching my trap speed making sure I dont see the mph decrease like it does right before it would detonate. I ended up pulling all the retard out & by the end of the night the car was trapping 5.5mph faster than the first pass that night.
08-10-2011, 12:17 PM
#14
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Nice, yea i was watching my log and sure enought before it dentonated it dropped mph. So you did all of that in the IAT advance table? basically u were commanding that it didnt pull timing at high IAT temps? what temp did it pull the first degree?
08-10-2011, 01:19 PM
#15
Well as a general rule its recommended that you can 0 the retard amount out in the 100kpa line up to 150*, anything warmer you wanna have it pull timing. Well since my IAT's were high due to the turbo being pushed outside the efficiency range & me wanting that 9.99 slip I started pulling the timing from the 158* & 167* columns of the 100kpa line/row. I ended up with zeros in those 2 columns on that row, if you decide to try it make sure your A/F is dead on and go 1 degree at a time.
08-10-2011, 01:24 PM
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DAMN! so it wasnt pulling timing until like 150+?! sounds sketchy.
When im pulling timing from HO Table should i be adding fuel in the same spot?
Do i need the 3bar OS hptuners in order to tune all the way?!
When im pulling timing from HO Table should i be adding fuel in the same spot?
Do i need the 3bar OS hptuners in order to tune all the way?!
08-10-2011, 01:43 PM
#17
Yo already have the 3 bar OS, if you look at your VE table you can see that it goes up to 315kpa which is 3 bar. I do highly recommend changing your boost enrichment table from 1.0 to 1.26 straight across the board.
08-10-2011, 04:45 PM
#20
When running 9 psi I had burst knock active but phased out the degrees of retard to 0 by 3200 rpms and never saw a problem. Now the car is making more boost and it's getting 2-4* of real knock on throttle tip-in. Instead of lowering base timing I'm bringing the burst knock back in slowly until the real knock is gone. Also increased the delta thresholds based on the data logs so it doesn't activate unless I'm stomping on the go pedal. Tweaking burst knock reduction so it is active only as long as it's needed. With the stock setting it fades nearly 20 times faster than real knock reduction.