Cam install help in a hurry please!!!!
03-21-2009, 09:59 PM
#1
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Cam install help in a hurry please!!!! so im trying to finish up my head and cam swap and i am putting the crank pulley back on and with the old bolt i have turned it far enough to where it wont turn anymore and is moving the car forward when i try to turn it. I have the car in 4th and the e brake on, but the crank pulley is about a quarter inch or so off of the alternator pulley and a/c pulley so i dont know how to get it on any farther?
03-22-2009, 12:19 AM
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are you using a big breaker bar with a long cheater bar on it? if not, try that. it will go on farther (obviously), but steady torque from a lot of leverage is better than jerky brute force.
i used a bolt that was about an inch longer than the stock pulley bolt so that i had more of the threads in the crank while the pulley was being started on the snout. i also used a strong washer with it. maybe the slippage of the bolt/washer let it slip on the pulley face. you may have a lot of friction from the washer area on the crank bolt. maybe try some grease on the washer area (dont get it between the snout and the pulley though!) of the crank bolt touches the pulley face....
am i making any sense? everything will bind up if the bolt has too much friction on the pulley. if it isnt sliding on the pulley face, it isnt going to turn anymore because it sure isnt going to spin the pulley on the crank....
i used a bolt that was about an inch longer than the stock pulley bolt so that i had more of the threads in the crank while the pulley was being started on the snout. i also used a strong washer with it. maybe the slippage of the bolt/washer let it slip on the pulley face. you may have a lot of friction from the washer area on the crank bolt. maybe try some grease on the washer area (dont get it between the snout and the pulley though!) of the crank bolt touches the pulley face....
am i making any sense? everything will bind up if the bolt has too much friction on the pulley. if it isnt sliding on the pulley face, it isnt going to turn anymore because it sure isnt going to spin the pulley on the crank....
03-22-2009, 12:34 AM
#4
You need to stick a big screw driver (or pry bar if available) in the u-joint of the driveshaft to keep it still. Some cars won't stay still even in 4th gear.
As for TQ'ing the pulley, I sure do hope you're using a torque wrench and not just going by looks.
TQ the old bolt to 230 ft lbs, back it out, and TQ the new one to 100 ft lbs. Done. The info posted 2 above me is incorrect. Do NOT tq the new bolt to 250.
As for TQ'ing the pulley, I sure do hope you're using a torque wrench and not just going by looks.
TQ the old bolt to 230 ft lbs, back it out, and TQ the new one to 100 ft lbs. Done. The info posted 2 above me is incorrect. Do NOT tq the new bolt to 250.
03-22-2009, 09:25 AM
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You need to stick a big screw driver (or pry bar if available) in the u-joint of the driveshaft to keep it still. Some cars won't stay still even in 4th gear.
As for TQ'ing the pulley, I sure do hope you're using a torque wrench and not just going by looks.
TQ the old bolt to 230 ft lbs, back it out, and TQ the new one to 100 ft lbs. Done. The info posted 2 above me is incorrect. Do NOT tq the new bolt to 250.
As for TQ'ing the pulley, I sure do hope you're using a torque wrench and not just going by looks.
TQ the old bolt to 230 ft lbs, back it out, and TQ the new one to 100 ft lbs. Done. The info posted 2 above me is incorrect. Do NOT tq the new bolt to 250.
03-22-2009, 10:28 AM
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You need to somehow hold the pully still. They do sell a tool for this. I cut one out of steel and welded in some bolts. I'll try to find a pic & post it up.
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03-22-2009, 10:33 AM
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This one is for a stock pully. bolts go threw the holes in the pully. Hole is for the socket to go threw. Hold it and tighten down. you can chain it to the k-member as well.
As for how to tq it, check out ls1howto.com
03-22-2009, 12:17 PM
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03-22-2009, 12:39 PM
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Not really asking if it worked for someone...I want to know the source of the spec? Never saw 100 ft. lbs. torque spec for GM or ARP bolt. And the procedure does not call for red loctite although it works for many!
Anyone know where this 100 ft. lbs. torque spec is coming from?
Anyone know where this 100 ft. lbs. torque spec is coming from?
03-22-2009, 04:51 PM
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100 ft. lbs. is much lower than what is recommended by ARP and I have heard the 37 ft. lbs. plus 140 degrees is way over 200 ft lbs.....so that is why I am questioning that advice. Many have had bolts come loose so why was 100 ft. lbs. chosen in all these cam swaps? Must be some basis for it and that is my real question and why I am confused!
