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Lost job and blew engine on same day need help?

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Old 03-22-2009, 06:55 PM
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Default Lost job and blew engine on same day need help?

So as stated I blew my engine, got major blowby and blew off oil cap and valve cover gasket. While driving me 01 WS6 with STS. Bottom end was stock so i figured one day got 18000 miles out of engine with turbo. I need help with which route to take I have a 3000 dollar budget and would like to know the besy route to take for rebuild and reliability as Im keeping the car. i am mechanic friendly and can remove the engine or do whatever. Just need someone experienced in price of cheap build, or replacement.

Any help would be appreciated.
Old 03-22-2009, 06:58 PM
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As long as the block is ok you can probably fix it yourself for under 3000.
Old 03-22-2009, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by GTFORMULA
As long as the block is ok you can probably fix it yourself for under 3000.
you can get ahold of LQ4/LQ9 shortblocks for cheap... they are 6.0 and make good power. Only difference is they are Iron and the compression is different
Old 03-22-2009, 07:41 PM
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Assuming you busted ringlands.

Pull motor apart, have block checked and honed. Polish and check crank. New forged pistons and rods. If you do all of the work, I'm guessing $2000-$2500 and you basically have a new short block.
Old 03-22-2009, 07:54 PM
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In process of removing motor from top side, which I hear is more difficult just dont have access to lift. then send it to a machine shop for the block work and I will do pistons and rods rings. Do you think i should stay stock to save cash. Now is not a great time to upgrade. Or should i buy the crank and go 383? then Im looking at retune cost too. So guess Ill answer my own question and stay stock. Well guess Ill know more once I send it to machine shop.
Old 03-22-2009, 07:54 PM
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I'm with the LQ9 build for you. The iron block will hold the boost better, you'll get an easy 408cid out of it with a 4" crank, and better overall power. The way the engine sits in the Fbody, you probably won't notice the extra 100lbs.. unless you're cutting all the weight you can for drag racing. But it sounds like this is a daily driver.
Old 03-22-2009, 07:55 PM
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Also wheres best place to get parts and any brand better on the budget build?
Old 03-22-2009, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Soul TKR
you can get ahold of LQ4/LQ9 shortblocks for cheap... they are 6.0 and make good power. Only difference is they are Iron and the compression is different
Yep and the lower compression of the 317 heads will be boost friendly. If you are on a tight budget just throw a LQ4 LB in there and a get a tune....
Old 03-22-2009, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by SOMbitch
Yep and the lower compression of the 317 heads will be boost friendly. If you are on a tight budget just throw a LQ4 LB in there and a get a tune....
+1

cheapest route for sure

Old 03-22-2009, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by vipvegas
Also wheres best place to get parts and any brand better on the budget build?
Best place is right where you are. Decide what you want and put the feelers out for someone here who has what you need for sale. Find out how bad off the LS1 you have is. That may determine your least expensive course of action.
I still say that if you plan on putting any significant boost to it, the iron block may be your least expensive way to go for a shortblock assembly that won't shell out on you -and gain some cubes to boot. Even with a stock crank, you'd be looking at -what- 364 cubes. Good time to add that '02 LS6 cam and springs too. Seems like you could do all that for less than $3k.
Old 03-24-2009, 10:39 AM
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So an lq4/lq9 will work with my heads, I already have springs? Will stock cam work? guess Id just be looking at a tune. As of now Im going to remove mine and take it to machine shop to see how bad off we are. Since Im budgetting should I just keep my block and just go forged internals or buy crank and go 383
Old 03-24-2009, 01:35 PM
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so went to machine shop today, worst case scenario the builder said $1200 in labor to tear down, hone etc., and reassemble. Is that bad? Decided to go back forged 346 to keep it stock but still handle boost. Just looking at pistons, h beam rods, and rings, bearings. Is there any pistons I should go with under boost, maybe dished? Just saves cash at this point. But will increase relability.
Old 03-24-2009, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by vipvegas
so went to machine shop today, worst case scenario the builder said $1200 in labor to tear down, hone etc., and reassemble. Is that bad? Decided to go back forged 346 to keep it stock but still handle boost. Just looking at pistons, h beam rods, and rings, bearings. Is there any pistons I should go with under boost, maybe dished? Just saves cash at this point. But will increase relability.
There are guys here pushing stock pistons and short blocks past 550hp with forced induction. At this level and below, with stock bore, make sure the assembly is at 100%, good quality bearings, and replace the rod bolts (ARP2000). A turbo system isn't as violent on the lower end as a blower or nitrous. On a budget build, the only plus of forged pistons (aside from them being tougher) is that you can lower your compression and increase boost.
The reason I recommended the '02+ LS6 cam is that it is probably the cheapest replacement cam that will be the best for a boosted DD. Stock '02 Fbody cam is 196/207 @.050, .467/.479 lift, on a 116 centerline. The '02+ LS6 cam is 204/218 @ .050, .555/.551 lift, on a 117.5 centerline. A significant performance increase and very boost friendly. And, best of all, CHEAPLY available on ebay or someone here.
You will already have the engine apart. So the replacing the valve springs issue shouldn't be a problem. Only issue with the LS6 cam is it has a smaller base circle than what is currently in your engine and will require different pushrods to compensate. Of course the stock pushrods are another weak point in the LS engines and should be replaced anyhow on a performance build.
My personal opinion is that dollar for dollar, a used set of '02+ LS6 heads, cam, and intake will yield better $ per horsepower increase than a forged bottom end. Especially for a budget rebuild.
Old 03-24-2009, 03:35 PM
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I say since you just lost your job, maybe you should just look into buying some used stock pistons and just buy some JE rings. I would be putting most of that money back for cushion until you find another job.

You can pull the motor using 2 jacks and a cherry picker .

Take the block and have it checked at a machine shop and honed. Then add some new bearings and your good to go.
Old 03-24-2009, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by vipvegas
so went to machine shop today, worst case scenario the builder said $1200 in labor to tear down, hone etc., and reassemble. Is that bad? Decided to go back forged 346 to keep it stock but still handle boost. Just looking at pistons, h beam rods, and rings, bearings. Is there any pistons I should go with under boost, maybe dished? Just saves cash at this point. But will increase relability.
Choose your pistons with your head choice. If you are going to use your ls1 heads you will want a deeper dish. If you get some lq9/317 heads you don't need as much dish. I run a mahle piston with -4cc dish, 317 heads with a .051 cometic gasket and I'm about 9.4 - 1 compression. Check out TSP I got my forged SB from them prety cheap, not saying buy a new SB but for your rods and pistons. I'm running crowler forged rods on a stock crank. Very happy with the set up so far. Sorry to hear about your bad day by the way.
Old 03-24-2009, 05:26 PM
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This is another suggestion but it might not be the one you want to hear, sell the STS setup on hear for $1500 and then you have a $4500 limit to spend on your car so you can get another nice shortblock and cam. Then you wont have to worry about the turbo anymore and it will be a nice all motor setup and you could go with a turbo setup shortblock so you can go back to the turbo eventually.
Old 03-24-2009, 06:21 PM
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Get a forged 346 from TSP or SDPC for about $2500 or a 370 iron block for $3K.
Old 03-24-2009, 07:34 PM
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i would get a lq4. the c/r is lower then the lq9. maybe change the rod bolts. i picked up my lq4 for like 700. so more money to play with.
Old 03-24-2009, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by m8w6r77
i would get a lq4. the c/r is lower then the lq9. maybe change the rod bolts. i picked up my lq4 for like 700. so more money to play with.
I picked up my LQ9 short block less cam for $300. Got an LS6 cam and springs for another $120, a clean set of LS6 heads for $425, and then an LS6 manifold for $90. Basically ended up with a 364cid iron block LS6, pushing well over 400hp through Edelbrock Victor headers without forced induction. Run it rich or with a meth injection kit, and you can run the 10+:1 comp. ratio with a nice amount of boost from the turbo. You will keep your low end torque AND a nice amount of boost.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...sx_engine.aspx
Old 03-24-2009, 11:16 PM
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dam that sucks.$3000 should get ya there.



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