Cure for Sticking N2O Solenoid on Dry Hits, and maybe wet hits too?
03-23-2009, 04:57 PM
#1
Cure for Sticking N2O Solenoid on Dry Hits, and maybe wet hits too? Below is a copy of a post I did in the GTO thread. I just wanted to make sure everyone got a chance to see the information here. Also, we want to in this thread talk about the feasability of doing this on the wet hits?
Man oh man, there is an absolute cure for this issue on the dry shots.
First off, the leaking into the intake of N2O because of a stuck nitrous solenoid can happen to any kit or set-up. It is not a wet issue nor a dry issue, but an inherent issue with nitrous in general. It is also not company specific as all have had this happen to their kits.
OK, the fix is simple, and I have been preaching it for years, however, one of the site vendors has been saying it's not needed, but I disagree. I will get to the actual cure in a minute but first want to talk about filters. A lot of intake backfires lately, mostly due to sticking N2O noids due to no filter. Even with a filter the noid can get debris in it because 90% of the guys put the filter at the bottle rather than at the noid. So what happens is you filter the bottle and that's it. Pieces of the Teflon liner in the braided hose and/or threading debris can now get into the noid and cause it to stick open. At the very least, put a screened fitting at the noid. So, keeping the debris out of the noid will a go along way toward keeping the noid in good working condition.
Now, what I have been preaching for the dry kits/hits is to run redundant noids. So very simple. There is no way your going to have two noids stick open at the same time. It's called the safety solenoid. That is really the only way the average street/stripper will get into trouble with a dry kit, the failure or sticking open nitrous noid. So add another noid in-line and you will have a very safe set-up.
Also, on the dry kits, lets say you have a sticking noid during a run. How is the redundant going to save you there? It will as you will be covered there as one of the redundant noids will still close and the system will be shut down as per normal. Then when your in the pits your intake will not fill up due to the sticking open noid, so no explosion when you go to start it up. That covers the after the MAF style dry as you can,t tell it's leaking. However, on a before the maf style dry hit you will instantly know when you have a sticking open noid during or after the run as the rpms will not come down to idle area. The MAF will still add fuel. I had my micro sw tapped closed so system would activate at set rpm for testing. Well i forgot the tapped sw and this is how I learned this little tid bit. I drove all the way to the drags and even made one pass before realizing what was up. I kept thinking man this is running good, like when I got on it a little leaving the bank and got to 3200rpm and the spray kicked in, hahahaha.
The below picture shows my old dual stage set up running redundant noids on each stage. I had over 300 runs/pulls with this system. In this time I had 3 or 4 solenoid failures (all were seat failure issues and thus leaking). But because of being redundant noids I never had both noids on either stage ever stick open or leak at the same time. That is something else we need to cover, some noid seats will fail and you will get a small leak that way, once again, redundant will cover this scenario. Runnning my set-up like this saved my motor a couple times for sure. it at least saved the intake from exploding and dislodging the fuel rails (the real reason why back-fires on our cars are so bad) spraying fuel all over for the fire to get bigger.
Here's one I did with a dry shot, a high rpm lean backfire due to no window sw and hit limiter and pulled fuel. Redundant would not have saved this issue, but the MicroEdge with the lean shut down would have. So we can make the dry hits absolutely bullet proof if set up correctly (run a ws, and a/f shut down).
The one thing about running redundant noids is the cumulative resistance. What that means is, the flow will be reduced because of the two orifice sizes being back to back. An example is the NOS small noids, they have about a .073 orifice size and can flow approx a 175 hit, but when you run them as redundant they flow only a 135/145 hit max due to restriction. So make sure you use big noids with nice sized orifices if you want a big dry shot.
About running the safety noid on wet kits. generally it has never been done. I guess the thinking is you have double the chance of the nitrous side not opening? Still seems like a smart move to at least think about doing this with wet kits?
I am going to copy my post and do another thread where we can talk about doing this with wet kits.
Robert
Man oh man, there is an absolute cure for this issue on the dry shots.
First off, the leaking into the intake of N2O because of a stuck nitrous solenoid can happen to any kit or set-up. It is not a wet issue nor a dry issue, but an inherent issue with nitrous in general. It is also not company specific as all have had this happen to their kits.
OK, the fix is simple, and I have been preaching it for years, however, one of the site vendors has been saying it's not needed, but I disagree. I will get to the actual cure in a minute but first want to talk about filters. A lot of intake backfires lately, mostly due to sticking N2O noids due to no filter. Even with a filter the noid can get debris in it because 90% of the guys put the filter at the bottle rather than at the noid. So what happens is you filter the bottle and that's it. Pieces of the Teflon liner in the braided hose and/or threading debris can now get into the noid and cause it to stick open. At the very least, put a screened fitting at the noid. So, keeping the debris out of the noid will a go along way toward keeping the noid in good working condition.
Now, what I have been preaching for the dry kits/hits is to run redundant noids. So very simple. There is no way your going to have two noids stick open at the same time. It's called the safety solenoid. That is really the only way the average street/stripper will get into trouble with a dry kit, the failure or sticking open nitrous noid. So add another noid in-line and you will have a very safe set-up.
Also, on the dry kits, lets say you have a sticking noid during a run. How is the redundant going to save you there? It will as you will be covered there as one of the redundant noids will still close and the system will be shut down as per normal. Then when your in the pits your intake will not fill up due to the sticking open noid, so no explosion when you go to start it up. That covers the after the MAF style dry as you can,t tell it's leaking. However, on a before the maf style dry hit you will instantly know when you have a sticking open noid during or after the run as the rpms will not come down to idle area. The MAF will still add fuel. I had my micro sw tapped closed so system would activate at set rpm for testing. Well i forgot the tapped sw and this is how I learned this little tid bit. I drove all the way to the drags and even made one pass before realizing what was up. I kept thinking man this is running good, like when I got on it a little leaving the bank and got to 3200rpm and the spray kicked in, hahahaha.
The below picture shows my old dual stage set up running redundant noids on each stage. I had over 300 runs/pulls with this system. In this time I had 3 or 4 solenoid failures (all were seat failure issues and thus leaking). But because of being redundant noids I never had both noids on either stage ever stick open or leak at the same time. That is something else we need to cover, some noid seats will fail and you will get a small leak that way, once again, redundant will cover this scenario. Runnning my set-up like this saved my motor a couple times for sure. it at least saved the intake from exploding and dislodging the fuel rails (the real reason why back-fires on our cars are so bad) spraying fuel all over for the fire to get bigger.
Here's one I did with a dry shot, a high rpm lean backfire due to no window sw and hit limiter and pulled fuel. Redundant would not have saved this issue, but the MicroEdge with the lean shut down would have. So we can make the dry hits absolutely bullet proof if set up correctly (run a ws, and a/f shut down).
The one thing about running redundant noids is the cumulative resistance. What that means is, the flow will be reduced because of the two orifice sizes being back to back. An example is the NOS small noids, they have about a .073 orifice size and can flow approx a 175 hit, but when you run them as redundant they flow only a 135/145 hit max due to restriction. So make sure you use big noids with nice sized orifices if you want a big dry shot.
About running the safety noid on wet kits. generally it has never been done. I guess the thinking is you have double the chance of the nitrous side not opening? Still seems like a smart move to at least think about doing this with wet kits?
I am going to copy my post and do another thread where we can talk about doing this with wet kits.
Robert
03-23-2009, 06:04 PM
#4
Robert
03-23-2009, 10:11 PM
#5
I am not a fan of redundant solenoids. I see no reason for the extra amp draw or restriction within the flow and phase change. I am more of a fan of using the right products built correctly for the job. I always suggest using a nitrous filter like our large high flowing cleanable filter and all our solenoids are manufactured with screened filters in the inlet port.
Doing it right and having a clean working enviroment during the install can make all the difference in the world. Also if you take the bottle out of the car and leave the main feed line laying around put tape over the ends so debris can not get into the feed line.
Dave
Doing it right and having a clean working enviroment during the install can make all the difference in the world. Also if you take the bottle out of the car and leave the main feed line laying around put tape over the ends so debris can not get into the feed line.
Dave
03-23-2009, 10:57 PM
#6
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Ive always heard of people using 2 'noids on progressive setups, the first being used as a 'saftey' for when the second pulsed 'noid gets torn up by the progressive.
Never had that problem tho, only a fuel 'noid stuck closed and burned every plug on that side of the engine.
Could have been worse tho.
Never had that problem tho, only a fuel 'noid stuck closed and burned every plug on that side of the engine.
Could have been worse tho.
03-24-2009, 10:14 AM
#7
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i like to fire the noids before i spray the car. i will crack the nitrous bottle and hold the end of the nitrous line from the nitrous noid into the air to clear any debris and to make sure it is sealing correctly. after that, i close the nitrous bottle, put the fuel line from the noid into a bottle and fire the noids again. once again, this will show if the fuel noid is openning and closing/sealing correctly. this process only takes a couple of minutes.
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03-24-2009, 07:27 PM
#8
Well for you guys that say redundant is no good, the current 3-blown intakes would have not blown apart should the redundant noids been in place. Like I said on the filter, until people start putting them at the noid the debris problem is going to continue. But debris is not the only issue to cause leaking. The vendor that says no redundant and use good stuff instead, well all three of the current intakes that blew apart are his kits and two burned up, so let the end user decide what the heck the real motives behind those statements are (more than likely only because it's my suggestions, lol). I must state that no other person has ever been against redundant noids when I talk about them. But again, I can basically guarantee that you will not blow your intake from leaky or stuck N2O noids on dry hits if you use redundant noids, and likely wet hits also. 
See this is and has been the problem. A well known vendor wants to dissuade people from going redundant. You can listen to him, or you can listen to myself and NOS. NOS new right from the get go that dry kits could utilize another noid for ultimate safety. They are the absolute pioneers in this business. they sell an add on safety noid kit. NOS has been around for about for about 30/35 years and have there own in house engineers, which you can listen to them, or take a chance and blow your intake and have a fire that destroys mucho, like the two cars in the other thread, the third only did intake damage, or you can be assured that your safe.
As for the amp draw, that holds no water at all. two noids on a dry kit are no different than a wet kit with two noids, lol, when it comes to amp draw. I currently have six noids on my car and if you know how to wire things up, each noid will be on it's own circuit. Also if you know your noids, you will be able to steer clear of the ones that pull 20amps and have a shorter life span.
Restriction is not an issue should we use the large orifice noids. I know HSW now only uses the big "Mondo" noids in all their dry kits. I will do the math so we can calculate exactly what any size redundant noids can flow.
Phase change is a non issue on redundant noids plain and simple.
I have been running redundant noids for approx 5-years with absolutely no problem what so ever. It has saved my motor and/or intake numerous times.
The real problem is our plastic intakes. If you want real safety, change over to a aluminum intake. they can take the small back-fires with out blowing apart and dislodging the fuel rails. If you use an aluminum single plain you can use one of these, below pic. It blows six pop offs at 80/90psi. I had this one on my car, along with alum intake and am adding a mega sized single safety noid to feed both of my Mondo Direct Port noids, and filters of course and a/f ratio shut-down (MicroEdge). We can build safe nitrous cars, no doubt about it. To many guys buy a basic kit with no filter and no other safety items and wonder why they have problems, lol. Then it gives nitrous a bad name in general.
There is more on building a safe kit, but that is enough for now.
Robert
EDIT: here is the link for the other thread that the original post came from for those that haven't seen it yet. https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/1073571-hav-you-checked-you-noids-lately-look-inside.html
See this is and has been the problem. A well known vendor wants to dissuade people from going redundant. You can listen to him, or you can listen to myself and NOS. NOS new right from the get go that dry kits could utilize another noid for ultimate safety. They are the absolute pioneers in this business. they sell an add on safety noid kit. NOS has been around for about for about 30/35 years and have there own in house engineers, which you can listen to them, or take a chance and blow your intake and have a fire that destroys mucho, like the two cars in the other thread, the third only did intake damage, or you can be assured that your safe.
As for the amp draw, that holds no water at all. two noids on a dry kit are no different than a wet kit with two noids, lol, when it comes to amp draw. I currently have six noids on my car and if you know how to wire things up, each noid will be on it's own circuit. Also if you know your noids, you will be able to steer clear of the ones that pull 20amps and have a shorter life span.
Restriction is not an issue should we use the large orifice noids. I know HSW now only uses the big "Mondo" noids in all their dry kits. I will do the math so we can calculate exactly what any size redundant noids can flow.
Phase change is a non issue on redundant noids plain and simple.
I have been running redundant noids for approx 5-years with absolutely no problem what so ever. It has saved my motor and/or intake numerous times.
The real problem is our plastic intakes. If you want real safety, change over to a aluminum intake. they can take the small back-fires with out blowing apart and dislodging the fuel rails. If you use an aluminum single plain you can use one of these, below pic. It blows six pop offs at 80/90psi. I had this one on my car, along with alum intake and am adding a mega sized single safety noid to feed both of my Mondo Direct Port noids, and filters of course and a/f ratio shut-down (MicroEdge). We can build safe nitrous cars, no doubt about it. To many guys buy a basic kit with no filter and no other safety items and wonder why they have problems, lol. Then it gives nitrous a bad name in general.
There is more on building a safe kit, but that is enough for now.
Robert
EDIT: here is the link for the other thread that the original post came from for those that haven't seen it yet. https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/1073571-hav-you-checked-you-noids-lately-look-inside.html
Last edited by Robert56; 03-24-2009 at 07:36 PM.
03-25-2009, 08:05 AM
#9
In the other thread someone stated the use of a ball valve in the nitrous line inside of the car. Edelbrock I think is the manufacturer of it. With the ball valve you can shut the n20 going to the solenoids so there will be no more leaks. In the end though if you do have a bad noid as soon as you turn the ball valve back on you have a leak.
03-25-2009, 08:37 AM
#10
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In the other thread someone stated the use of a ball valve in the nitrous line inside of the car. Edelbrock I think is the manufacturer of it. With the ball valve you can shut the n20 going to the solenoids so there will be no more leaks. In the end though if you do have a bad noid as soon as you turn the ball valve back on you have a leak.
The ball valve could potentially have helped that GTO, but like you said the minute he got up to the staging lanes, same result could have occured.
03-25-2009, 10:07 AM
#11
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When you say redundant solenoids are you saying they are plumbed in series?
I run two fuel solenoids in parallel to make sure i am not short of fuel.
I also have two N20 solenoids in series, being I have a progressive setup.
I run two fuel solenoids in parallel to make sure i am not short of fuel.
I also have two N20 solenoids in series, being I have a progressive setup.
03-25-2009, 10:27 AM
#12
I guess I can see where these would be great for a dry kit. As for a wet kit I think the safety equipment that is out there today would be plenty to make a safe system. Such as: FPSS, WOT switch, lean shut down switch, window switch, and filters. I think if all these are added to your list of things to buy with your kit, we would see alot less back fires and cars burning down.
03-25-2009, 10:36 AM
#13
I agree with robert to an extent its. nice but your fist defence is don't use those small POS nos cheater noids.... ever! I wouldn't use them as a purge. Once you go to the big noids if you have 2 kits with 2 noids thats 8 noids thats alot of draw you better have good noids. Its a good safty measure for street guys with smallshots that want to reduce risks. Big nitrous guys its not really going to work.
As for the filter up front. if you run a tube style filter it will cause nitrous to expand(bad) it may not be notisable for street guys but we want the cldest denses nitrous to expand as close to the combustion chamber as possible. so we run the cone style filter nut that proflow started and now every company has. Also i don't liek screen filters but if you can't aford a rebuild or the rick run one. LOL
As for the filter up front. if you run a tube style filter it will cause nitrous to expand(bad) it may not be notisable for street guys but we want the cldest denses nitrous to expand as close to the combustion chamber as possible. so we run the cone style filter nut that proflow started and now every company has. Also i don't liek screen filters but if you can't aford a rebuild or the rick run one. LOL
03-25-2009, 10:50 AM
#14
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I guess I can see where these would be great for a dry kit. As for a wet kit I think the safety equipment that is out there today would be plenty to make a safe system. Such as: FPSS, WOT switch, lean shut down switch, window switch, and filters. I think if all these are added to your list of things to buy with your kit, we would see alot less back fires and cars burning down.
03-25-2009, 09:57 PM
#15
Well for you guys that say redundant is no good, the current 3-blown intakes would have not blown apart should the redundant noids been in place. Like I said on the filter, until people start putting them at the noid the debris problem is going to continue. But debris is not the only issue to cause leaking. The vendor that says no redundant and use good stuff instead, well all three of the current intakes that blew apart are his kits and two burned up, so let the end user decide what the heck the real motives behind those statements are (more than likely only because it's my suggestions, lol). I must state that no other person has ever been against redundant noids when I talk about them. But again, I can basically guarantee that you will not blow your intake from leaky or stuck N2O noids on dry hits if you use redundant noids, and likely wet hits also.
See this is and has been the problem. A well known vendor wants to dissuade people from going redundant. You can listen to him, or you can listen to myself and NOS. NOS new right from the get go that dry kits could utilize another noid for ultimate safety. They are the absolute pioneers in this business. they sell an add on safety noid kit. NOS has been around for about for about 30/35 years and have there own in house engineers, which you can listen to them, or take a chance and blow your intake and have a fire that destroys mucho, like the two cars in the other thread, the third only did intake damage, or you can be assured that your safe.
As for the amp draw, that holds no water at all. two noids on a dry kit are no different than a wet kit with two noids, lol, when it comes to amp draw. I currently have six noids on my car and if you know how to wire things up, each noid will be on it's own circuit. Also if you know your noids, you will be able to steer clear of the ones that pull 20amps and have a shorter life span.
Restriction is not an issue should we use the large orifice noids. I know HSW now only uses the big "Mondo" noids in all their dry kits. I will do the math so we can calculate exactly what any size redundant noids can flow.
Phase change is a non issue on redundant noids plain and simple.
I have been running redundant noids for approx 5-years with absolutely no problem what so ever. It has saved my motor and/or intake numerous times.
The real problem is our plastic intakes. If you want real safety, change over to a aluminum intake. they can take the small back-fires with out blowing apart and dislodging the fuel rails. If you use an aluminum single plain you can use one of these, below pic. It blows six pop offs at 80/90psi. I had this one on my car, along with alum intake and am adding a mega sized single safety noid to feed both of my Mondo Direct Port noids, and filters of course and a/f ratio shut-down (MicroEdge). We can build safe nitrous cars, no doubt about it. To many guys buy a basic kit with no filter and no other safety items and wonder why they have problems, lol. Then it gives nitrous a bad name in general.
There is more on building a safe kit, but that is enough for now.
Robert
EDIT: here is the link for the other thread that the original post came from for those that haven't seen it yet. https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/1073571-hav-you-checked-you-noids-lately-look-inside.html
See this is and has been the problem. A well known vendor wants to dissuade people from going redundant. You can listen to him, or you can listen to myself and NOS. NOS new right from the get go that dry kits could utilize another noid for ultimate safety. They are the absolute pioneers in this business. they sell an add on safety noid kit. NOS has been around for about for about 30/35 years and have there own in house engineers, which you can listen to them, or take a chance and blow your intake and have a fire that destroys mucho, like the two cars in the other thread, the third only did intake damage, or you can be assured that your safe.
As for the amp draw, that holds no water at all. two noids on a dry kit are no different than a wet kit with two noids, lol, when it comes to amp draw. I currently have six noids on my car and if you know how to wire things up, each noid will be on it's own circuit. Also if you know your noids, you will be able to steer clear of the ones that pull 20amps and have a shorter life span.
Restriction is not an issue should we use the large orifice noids. I know HSW now only uses the big "Mondo" noids in all their dry kits. I will do the math so we can calculate exactly what any size redundant noids can flow.
Phase change is a non issue on redundant noids plain and simple.
I have been running redundant noids for approx 5-years with absolutely no problem what so ever. It has saved my motor and/or intake numerous times.
The real problem is our plastic intakes. If you want real safety, change over to a aluminum intake. they can take the small back-fires with out blowing apart and dislodging the fuel rails. If you use an aluminum single plain you can use one of these, below pic. It blows six pop offs at 80/90psi. I had this one on my car, along with alum intake and am adding a mega sized single safety noid to feed both of my Mondo Direct Port noids, and filters of course and a/f ratio shut-down (MicroEdge). We can build safe nitrous cars, no doubt about it. To many guys buy a basic kit with no filter and no other safety items and wonder why they have problems, lol. Then it gives nitrous a bad name in general.
There is more on building a safe kit, but that is enough for now.
Robert
EDIT: here is the link for the other thread that the original post came from for those that haven't seen it yet. https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/1073571-hav-you-checked-you-noids-lately-look-inside.html
I have been working real hard to avoid argueing with you here on the boards. It amazes me that you have been demoted from being a moderator and even banned from this board and you still come back taking shots at us every chance you get. I understand that it is no secret that we are the biggest and most knowledgable nitrous company on this site. Therefore its natural that we are going to have people gunning after us from time to time. As I have told you I am not going to argue with you anylonger online and I am going to stick with my words. I simply do not have the time to waist with responding to your remarks and ignorance.
Please keep in mind we sale more Nitrous systems than any other sponsor on the board. So yes majority of the mass is going to be using our products. I can not be responsable when our products are ran in conjuction with another companies product, not using al the correct safety accessories, or if the product is not used in the correct manner.
In all the years I have been doing this I have yet to blow a customers car up I have installed a system on or tuned. Our great reputation is a result of our deep knowledge, great products and the technical help we provide. All the customers that have personally listen to our advice and taken advantage of our deep knowledge have always had years of safe clean fun making the power we are well known for providing.
Again our reputation speaks for its self. I am pretty sure that seperates us from the internet know it alls that fall short using there own advice.
We offer and provide the advice, tools, and products for everyone to have great results making good, clean, safe power. It is up to the customer to use that advice to there advantage.
Now yes it is my opnion that with our Solenoids and Our Nitrous Filter there is no reason to use redundant solenoids. I can not speak for using other companies solenoids. Yes I do aggree that using some of the other companies solenoids offered on the market you may be much better using them in series so that when one does fail there will be a back up. You may actually want to run 3 or 4 in series maybe even 5 or 6. Keep in mind that if trash is in the system there is a big possibilty it can stick more than just one solenoid open.
AS stated already my opionion on this is to do it right the first time. Use the right solenoid with the right filter with a clean work area and blow the hoses out before use, you have no reason to have redundant solenoids.
Maintence is also a key factor in making sure your system is safe. Simply testing the system before use takes a matter of a minute and can rule out the chance of failure when using correctly.
Its really not rocket science.
Now for the ones reading along. I do not care if you want to run redundant solenoids. Why would I say NO dont buy an extra solenoid from us if I felt it was neccessary. Come on think about this..... We would love to sale as many solenoids as we can. Telling you to spend your money right the first time on a product that is built to take the abuse over the test of time is actally much less profitable than selling you as many solenoids as we can.
LIKE I SAID DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME..
Just my 2 cents..
Thanks
Dave
03-25-2009, 10:11 PM
#16
I agree with robert to an extent its. nice but your fist defence is don't use those small POS nos cheater noids.... ever! I wouldn't use them as a purge. Once you go to the big noids if you have 2 kits with 2 noids thats 8 noids thats alot of draw you better have good noids. Its a good safty measure for street guys with smallshots that want to reduce risks. Big nitrous guys its not really going to work.
As for the filter up front. if you run a tube style filter it will cause nitrous to expand(bad) it may not be notisable for street guys but we want the cldest denses nitrous to expand as close to the combustion chamber as possible. so we run the cone style filter nut that proflow started and now every company has. Also i don't liek screen filters but if you can't aford a rebuild or the rick run one. LOL
As for the filter up front. if you run a tube style filter it will cause nitrous to expand(bad) it may not be notisable for street guys but we want the cldest denses nitrous to expand as close to the combustion chamber as possible. so we run the cone style filter nut that proflow started and now every company has. Also i don't liek screen filters but if you can't aford a rebuild or the rick run one. LOL
You are so right about the phase change but for the average street guy which is what 99.9 percent of this board is made up of phase change is not something they even need to concider.
I like the filters like what Proflow started. The only bad thing is they only work with the 660 style nut and they do not have near the filtration the rock style element does that we use in our inline style filter. Due to that fact though they will flow higher hp levels for the racer that is spraying 600 plus hp.
I prefer to have the filter at the bottle. The reason for this is that I do not want any rust particles or debrees in the main feed line at all. After doing the nitrous install the installer should blow the main feed line out making sure there is no trash in the line. After you make that final connection of the main feed line to the solenoid fitting the odds of getting anything to the solenoid with a filter at the bottle is very very very slim. In the chance that something did make it there we have a screen in the inlet port of our solenoid to catch it. I just dont know what would make it there after blowing the hoses out and sealing them up and having the filter at the start of the feed line.
Dave
03-26-2009, 01:23 AM
#17
Teching In
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bennington, NE
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04-29-2009, 04:00 AM
#18
I agree with robert to an extent its. nice but your fist defence is don't use those small POS nos cheater noids.... ever! I wouldn't use them as a purge. Once you go to the big noids if you have 2 kits with 2 noids thats 8 noids thats alot of draw you better have good noids. Its a good safty measure for street guys with smallshots that want to reduce risks. Big nitrous guys its not really going to work.
As for the filter up front. if you run a tube style filter it will cause nitrous to expand(bad) it may not be notisable for street guys but we want the cldest denses nitrous to expand as close to the combustion chamber as possible. so we run the cone style filter nut that proflow started and now every company has. Also i don't liek screen filters but if you can't aford a rebuild or the rick run one. LOL
As for the filter up front. if you run a tube style filter it will cause nitrous to expand(bad) it may not be notisable for street guys but we want the cldest denses nitrous to expand as close to the combustion chamber as possible. so we run the cone style filter nut that proflow started and now every company has. Also i don't liek screen filters but if you can't aford a rebuild or the rick run one. LOL
There is a non phase changing filter on the market currently that could be mounted forward.
Robert
04-29-2009, 04:09 AM
#19
Robert,
I have been working real hard to avoid argueing with you here on the boards. It amazes me that you have been demoted from being a moderator and even banned from this board and you still come back taking shots at us every chance you get. I understand that it is no secret that we are the biggest and most knowledgable nitrous company on this site. Therefore its natural that we are going to have people gunning after us from time to time. As I have told you I am not going to argue with you anylonger online and I am going to stick with my words. I simply do not have the time to waist with responding to your remarks and ignorance.
Please keep in mind we sale more Nitrous systems than any other sponsor on the board. So yes majority of the mass is going to be using our products. I can not be responsable when our products are ran in conjuction with another companies product, not using al the correct safety accessories, or if the product is not used in the correct manner.
In all the years I have been doing this I have yet to blow a customers car up I have installed a system on or tuned. Our great reputation is a result of our deep knowledge, great products and the technical help we provide. All the customers that have personally listen to our advice and taken advantage of our deep knowledge have always had years of safe clean fun making the power we are well known for providing.
Again our reputation speaks for its self. I am pretty sure that seperates us from the internet know it alls that fall short using there own advice.
We offer and provide the advice, tools, and products for everyone to have great results making good, clean, safe power. It is up to the customer to use that advice to there advantage.
Now yes it is my opnion that with our Solenoids and Our Nitrous Filter there is no reason to use redundant solenoids. I can not speak for using other companies solenoids. Yes I do aggree that using some of the other companies solenoids offered on the market you may be much better using them in series so that when one does fail there will be a back up. You may actually want to run 3 or 4 in series maybe even 5 or 6. Keep in mind that if trash is in the system there is a big possibilty it can stick more than just one solenoid open.
AS stated already my opionion on this is to do it right the first time. Use the right solenoid with the right filter with a clean work area and blow the hoses out before use, you have no reason to have redundant solenoids.
Maintence is also a key factor in making sure your system is safe. Simply testing the system before use takes a matter of a minute and can rule out the chance of failure when using correctly.
Its really not rocket science.
Now for the ones reading along. I do not care if you want to run redundant solenoids. Why would I say NO dont buy an extra solenoid from us if I felt it was neccessary. Come on think about this..... We would love to sale as many solenoids as we can. Telling you to spend your money right the first time on a product that is built to take the abuse over the test of time is actally much less profitable than selling you as many solenoids as we can.
LIKE I SAID DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME..
Just my 2 cents..
Thanks
Dave
I have been working real hard to avoid argueing with you here on the boards. It amazes me that you have been demoted from being a moderator and even banned from this board and you still come back taking shots at us every chance you get. I understand that it is no secret that we are the biggest and most knowledgable nitrous company on this site. Therefore its natural that we are going to have people gunning after us from time to time. As I have told you I am not going to argue with you anylonger online and I am going to stick with my words. I simply do not have the time to waist with responding to your remarks and ignorance.
Please keep in mind we sale more Nitrous systems than any other sponsor on the board. So yes majority of the mass is going to be using our products. I can not be responsable when our products are ran in conjuction with another companies product, not using al the correct safety accessories, or if the product is not used in the correct manner.
In all the years I have been doing this I have yet to blow a customers car up I have installed a system on or tuned. Our great reputation is a result of our deep knowledge, great products and the technical help we provide. All the customers that have personally listen to our advice and taken advantage of our deep knowledge have always had years of safe clean fun making the power we are well known for providing.
Again our reputation speaks for its self. I am pretty sure that seperates us from the internet know it alls that fall short using there own advice.
We offer and provide the advice, tools, and products for everyone to have great results making good, clean, safe power. It is up to the customer to use that advice to there advantage.
Now yes it is my opnion that with our Solenoids and Our Nitrous Filter there is no reason to use redundant solenoids. I can not speak for using other companies solenoids. Yes I do aggree that using some of the other companies solenoids offered on the market you may be much better using them in series so that when one does fail there will be a back up. You may actually want to run 3 or 4 in series maybe even 5 or 6. Keep in mind that if trash is in the system there is a big possibilty it can stick more than just one solenoid open.
AS stated already my opionion on this is to do it right the first time. Use the right solenoid with the right filter with a clean work area and blow the hoses out before use, you have no reason to have redundant solenoids.
Maintence is also a key factor in making sure your system is safe. Simply testing the system before use takes a matter of a minute and can rule out the chance of failure when using correctly.
Its really not rocket science.
Now for the ones reading along. I do not care if you want to run redundant solenoids. Why would I say NO dont buy an extra solenoid from us if I felt it was neccessary. Come on think about this..... We would love to sale as many solenoids as we can. Telling you to spend your money right the first time on a product that is built to take the abuse over the test of time is actally much less profitable than selling you as many solenoids as we can.
LIKE I SAID DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME..
Just my 2 cents..
Thanks
Dave
By the way, I now have a Road King (not my sprayed chopper) that can hand your bike it's lunch, lol, want to take me up? a grudge match?
Robert