big shot on a ls2 street motor ??????? need help
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big shot on a ls2 street motor ??????? need help
i have been looking for a ls2 and found one that has been machined has darton big bore sleeves and honed for a 4.130 bore ?is the bore to big for a daily street car. i was going to build a 402 but i cant with this block so i'm lookin into another CI build! if i run a stock stroke crank will this be to big for a street car ? also i plan on running this on an n2o app for a while until i get the money for a charger ! i am a big fan of wiseco piston's but have never built a lsx before. are they a good choice for this kind of build they have to be good piston's with both n20 and boost .i need all the help i can get and would like to get educated before i call a shop! HP wise id like to be in the( streetable ) 450rwhp range on motor and good for 300 hit.
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what i was lookin into doing is getting a piston the will get me around a 9.5 cr with a 72 cc head but as close to 11.0 cr with a 58cc as possible . i'm also not wanting any kind of clearance problems . what is a good stroke to use for something like this? i think 450rwhp is very fair when it is possible to get in the mid 500's N/A . this is a true daily driver not a around town kinda car. i'm going to take this on road trip's and vacation and possibly 75-100 mpd !
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you should be fine with the factory stroke, and factory crank. some guys on here ran their factory cranks to the 1000whp mark.
how much horse power are you planning on running once you have your FI set up ready ?
on my own FI build i am going with 8.5:1 CR with 72cc heads, because i plan on running big boost on pump gas and no meth.
how much horse power are you planning on running once you have your FI set up ready ?
on my own FI build i am going with 8.5:1 CR with 72cc heads, because i plan on running big boost on pump gas and no meth.
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I have a ls2 with a 4.125 bore, it has a 4 inch callies crank wiesco pistons and very large cam it puts down 498 hp at the rear wheels and is very streetable, the compresion range is 10.7:1 and runs on pump gas nicely. i dont think you will have any problems achieving your goals. very modest.
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honestly, a 500whp goal is more like it. if you put out 450 to the wheels with a 402 there might be something wrong with the combo. lol!
you can honestly have a pretty roudy street motor (over 520whp) and it woud still be very, very drivable. its all about a well thought out cam and induction selection (and the tune). hell "little" 346's hit 500 wheel hp all the time with pretty darn good drivability. i think you could even do 500 or so to the wheels with a good set of heads and a pretty "sleeperish" mild cam.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...wtq-a4-m6.html
theres a great thread for you to check out.
you can honestly have a pretty roudy street motor (over 520whp) and it woud still be very, very drivable. its all about a well thought out cam and induction selection (and the tune). hell "little" 346's hit 500 wheel hp all the time with pretty darn good drivability. i think you could even do 500 or so to the wheels with a good set of heads and a pretty "sleeperish" mild cam.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...wtq-a4-m6.html
theres a great thread for you to check out.
Last edited by kmracer; 03-24-2009 at 10:38 PM.
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#2 bore is not the primary concern for the street stroke is, the larger the stroke the more the piston travels out of the bore on the down stroke and the piston speed in greater the pin height becomes higher creating more rock in the bore and so on. I feel 4.100 is really the max stroke for the best longevity. Futher more if you have a motor 418 or larger you need a head that flows 330cfm or more to actually make power above 6500rpm. A 418 will move 328cfm of air per cylinder at 6800rpm and a 440 will move 352cfm at 7000rpm. Basically a big motor is useless unless you intend on buying the supporting mods.
Last edited by 3timeracin; 03-25-2009 at 05:26 PM.
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honestly, a 500whp goal is more like it. if you put out 450 to the wheels with a 402 there might be something wrong with the combo. lol!
you can honestly have a pretty roudy street motor (over 520whp) and it woud still be very, very drivable. its all about a well thought out cam and induction selection (and the tune). hell "little" 346's hit 500 wheel hp all the time with pretty darn good drivability. i think you could even do 500 or so to the wheels with a good set of heads and a pretty "sleeperish" mild cam.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...wtq-a4-m6.html
theres a great thread for you to check out.
you can honestly have a pretty roudy street motor (over 520whp) and it woud still be very, very drivable. its all about a well thought out cam and induction selection (and the tune). hell "little" 346's hit 500 wheel hp all the time with pretty darn good drivability. i think you could even do 500 or so to the wheels with a good set of heads and a pretty "sleeperish" mild cam.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...wtq-a4-m6.html
theres a great thread for you to check out.
There is alot of variables on RWHP if you have a stick and a set of radial tires plan on making 75+hp more than a car with an auto and slicks on the dyno with the same setup. I had a 408 about 4 years ago only made 480rwhp and that car ran 10.70's n/a all day but it was dynoed on a mustang dyno with 28" slicks and a 4,800rpm converter. I did the same engine for a friends ZO6 last year he put down 538RWHP on the same dyno ?
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i understand all that good stuff ! i just need as much info as i can get to make my own conclusion. we ran wiseco piston in our race car i know there great piston's dollar for dollar i think some of the best. i was more or less checking to see if anyone had a better idea for a piston. i have decided i am going with a 4.00 stroke at the most. i may even go with a stock crank mainly because i dont need all the bottom side torque . i want to be able to take of decent with out rip'n the tires off. id like to take it to friday night drags in atlanta and not spin all the way down the track. plus i'm going to spray the big cubes might hurt me at the track ( pit road no prep same as the street )
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the only reason i even brought up the fact about the darton sleeves is the block i am looking at. already has darton sleeves with a 4.130 bore has been completley machined and ready for assembly . MY QUESTION IS WHAT SHOULD I PAY FOR THE BLOCK??? the cost of the sleeves block and machine work is around the 2900 neighbor hood . although i am going to say this i'm not lookin for a sleeved block it is way more then i need for what i'm doing . but if i can get it at a deal i'll buy it for the hell of it. what is a good deal for the block .
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i understand all that good stuff ! i just need as much info as i can get to make my own conclusion. we ran wiseco piston in our race car i know there great piston's dollar for dollar i think some of the best. i was more or less checking to see if anyone had a better idea for a piston. i have decided i am going with a 4.00 stroke at the most. i may even go with a stock crank mainly because i dont need all the bottom side torque . i want to be able to take of decent with out rip'n the tires off. id like to take it to friday night drags in atlanta and not spin all the way down the track. plus i'm going to spray the big cubes might hurt me at the track ( pit road no prep same as the street )
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i'll use slicks down there and nitto drag radial's around town. i'm not really looking for a big hp number because paper dosent get you down the track. it's more or less the performance i'm looking for to get to a decent et. if i can get a 10.00 et with a real street car i'll be happy . i should be able to do that with a well built engine N/A and a 200-250 hit . then when i get the money later on i should be able to do it on motor with boost . that would be an awsome daily driver.
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i'll use slicks down there and nitto drag radial's around town. i'm not really looking for a big hp number because paper dosent get you down the track. it's more or less the performance i'm looking for to get to a decent et. if i can get a 10.00 et with a real street car i'll be happy . i should be able to do that with a well built engine N/A and a 200-250 hit . then when i get the money later on i should be able to do it on motor with boost . that would be an awsome daily driver.
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To acheive your goal I would just buy a Texas speed or similar 414ci short block and use some good heads L92, Ls7, TFS 235 all these heads will make enough power to run 10's on motor and mid to low 9's on 250 shot as long as you have the suspension. My last engine was a 441 lsx with a set of WCCH L92 heads NOT pump gas went 9.60's N/A and 8.40 on a 225 shot my car weighs 3400 still has power everything even the seat.
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that is about were i want to be 10.80's - 11.0's on motor and 9.80'0-10.0's on the jug . so i go with a 408-414 with a solid bottom side . what compression should i run i'm thinkin 10.0-10.5 with a set of ported heads ( what heads should i run ) there are the l92's that i think will be to much or ls6's they should be good . i'll prob run a ported ls6 intake and ported tb for that stock look. then what cam should i run . basicaly i'm asking your openion on a motor that you would build spec for spec . you know what i want to do so suggest away .