Recommend an HVLP Gun Kit
#1
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Recommend an HVLP Gun Kit
Hey guys, I'm looking to to buy a starter HVLP gun kit with multiple guns or attachments for primer/base(color)/clear. My intentions are to spray paint my hood, front/rear bumper. I am just beginning so do not recommend the highest top dollar gun kit nor the cheapest. I want a kit that will last me a long time in the $500-650 price range.
does this seem like a good starter kit
Thanks in advance.
does this seem like a good starter kit
Thanks in advance.
#2
Your spray gun should be matched to the CFM output of your compressor as you can oversize the compressor output. Look at CFM around 50PSI. You should also match the guns fluid tip and air cap to the material that you will be using. If the compressor is small - it typically condenses a lot of water and this can be a problem.
The first time you are spraying basecoat or clear and the gun spits out some primer you will understand why you want to use a different gun for primer and basecoat/clear. Professional painters often use another gun just for the clear.
Rebuild kits and parts are also important. I would stick with a known brand like Sharp, DeVilbiss, Binks. The Japanese company Sata makes an excellent paint gun but they are also priced higher. You might look at a new gun that isn't the newest model, they work just fine and can be picked up for less.
The first time you are spraying basecoat or clear and the gun spits out some primer you will understand why you want to use a different gun for primer and basecoat/clear. Professional painters often use another gun just for the clear.
Rebuild kits and parts are also important. I would stick with a known brand like Sharp, DeVilbiss, Binks. The Japanese company Sata makes an excellent paint gun but they are also priced higher. You might look at a new gun that isn't the newest model, they work just fine and can be picked up for less.
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Your spray gun should be matched to the CFM output of your compressor as you can oversize the compressor output. Look at CFM around 50PSI. You should also match the guns fluid tip and air cap to the material that you will be using. If the compressor is small - it typically condenses a lot of water and this can be a problem.
The first time you are spraying basecoat or clear and the gun spits out some primer you will understand why you want to use a different gun for primer and basecoat/clear. Professional painters often use another gun just for the clear.
Rebuild kits and parts are also important. I would stick with a known brand like Sharp, DeVilbiss, Binks. The Japanese company Sata makes an excellent paint gun but they are also priced higher. You might look at a new gun that isn't the newest model, they work just fine and can be picked up for less.
The first time you are spraying basecoat or clear and the gun spits out some primer you will understand why you want to use a different gun for primer and basecoat/clear. Professional painters often use another gun just for the clear.
Rebuild kits and parts are also important. I would stick with a known brand like Sharp, DeVilbiss, Binks. The Japanese company Sata makes an excellent paint gun but they are also priced higher. You might look at a new gun that isn't the newest model, they work just fine and can be picked up for less.
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Hey guys, I'm looking to to buy a starter HVLP gun kit with multiple guns or attachments for primer/base(color)/clear. My intentions are to spray paint my hood, front/rear bumper. I am just beginning so do not recommend the highest top dollar gun kit nor the cheapest. I want a kit that will last me a long time in the $500-650 price range.
does this seem like a good starter kit
Thanks in advance.
does this seem like a good starter kit
Thanks in advance.
having said that... if i had a $650 budget.. would i buy it? no..
what i would do with that budget is get an inexpensive primer gun (something with a 1.8-2.0 tip in the $50-$70 range)... doesn't really need to be anything special.. because you're basically sanding most of what you spray anyways...
then i would get a Tekna gun (very high end gun made by DeVilbiss) with a 1.3 tip and the basecoat and clearcoat aircaps (202 and 909)... and you're done.. have a decent primer gun with a KICK *** basecoat and clearcoat gun (these kits are on sale at.. um... certain places for $440ish... *cough*.. comes with a gun case... a metal cup and plastic cup.. as well as both the 909 and 202 air caps)
Last edited by Ricer; 03-24-2009 at 11:12 PM.
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YAYYYYY!!! my dads friend who works at an autobody shop said I can spray paint my hood and bumpers myself using his guns and his supervision for the cost of the paint. I'm soo stoked. I'll probably buy the kit after.
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+1 for the cheap primer gun. Then get an Iwata lph-100. I have sprayed with alot of high dollar guns and that is the best by far. Most all the other guns run through a quarter more material than this gun and its one of the lightest guns out there. Devilbiss are heavy and Satas are paint hogs. My .02$$
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I have been using Sata all my painting life, and they are wonderful! I would never change my gun. Especially the Sata 4 the small gun for the jams! Develbiss is pretty good too...
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Your spray gun should be matched to the CFM output of your compressor as you can oversize the compressor output. Look at CFM around 50PSI. You should also match the guns fluid tip and air cap to the material that you will be using. If the compressor is small - it typically condenses a lot of water and this can be a problem.
The first time you are spraying basecoat or clear and the gun spits out some primer you will understand why you want to use a different gun for primer and basecoat/clear. Professional painters often use another gun just for the clear.
Rebuild kits and parts are also important. I would stick with a known brand like Sharp, DeVilbiss, Binks. The Japanese company Sata makes an excellent paint gun but they are also priced higher. You might look at a new gun that isn't the newest model, they work just fine and can be picked up for less.
The first time you are spraying basecoat or clear and the gun spits out some primer you will understand why you want to use a different gun for primer and basecoat/clear. Professional painters often use another gun just for the clear.
Rebuild kits and parts are also important. I would stick with a known brand like Sharp, DeVilbiss, Binks. The Japanese company Sata makes an excellent paint gun but they are also priced higher. You might look at a new gun that isn't the newest model, they work just fine and can be picked up for less.
Actually the SATA is a German manufactured gun and is far superior to all of the guns you mentioned. They are around 5-700 per gun but I've had mine going on 8 years and paint damn near every day and have never had a problem or replaced any parts. Not even a lid, and that's that first to go on most any gun. PROPER MAINTENANCE AND CLEANLINESS IS CRUCIAL!
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+1 for the cheap primer gun. Then get an Iwata lph-100. I have sprayed with alot of high dollar guns and that is the best by far. Most all the other guns run through a quarter more material than this gun and its one of the lightest guns out there. Devilbiss are heavy and Satas are paint hogs. My .02$$
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I do agree on the Iwata as well even though it;s far out of most price ranges. Very similar to the SATA pricewise. As far as SATAs being paint hogs, Ii learned years ago the same thing and finally figured out it just wanted me to work faster, whew!! It does help on flash times especially when doing overalls and returning to the startiing point w/out dry spraying. Let's you get around a car faster. I love this especially when doing candies or any tri-coats that I feel like quitting after the 10th round around a car!!
You hit the nail righ on man. That is a superior production gun. I like the slower tempo gun so i can see all the detail and get everything. I can paint both ways but i prefer a slower tempo. You can get away with it with the iwata because its so light it does not tire you out. For a beginer i do not recomend a Sata. You have to shoot close and fast.
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Close and fast is right. Its all about the preference, and how you learn. It's going to be difficult the first time no matter what! Untill you learn the style your comfortable with, be it fast, or slow.
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alright guys i'm buying a harbor freight purple primer gun, a TEKNA for $400 on ebay (new), a respirator, I have a few air compressors that I can T-together. what else should I get .......an air dryer? which one?
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paint gun
Ive been spraying all my bases with a Sata NR95. For clear you just can beat the Iwata LPH 400 plus they use less product. And if you buy an Iwata you can buy different air caps to spray base with. They make a "purple" air cap for colors with difficult pearls and metallics. The air caps are the only difference from there clear gun and there base guns. So for around six or seven hundred you could have a good set up. I just bought the purple air cap for my Iwata and I think it works great. Alot different from the Sata though. I would rather spend 500 hundred on one good gun verse buying a kit with two for three decent guns for half the price. My Iwata is five years old and it works just as good now as it did when I bought it. Plus if you need a rebuild kit for them you can get one. As for spraying high build primers go to Wal-Mart buy the cheapest gun in the joint and throw it away in 3 months and get a new one.
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SHOULD I BUY THIS
BUMP NEED ANSWER
BUMP NEED ANSWER
Why would you need an air dryer? The only thing you'd need that for would be waterbase paints. If you are spraying waterbase paint I'd be doing so in a booth not in a garage, you'll have SOOOO much dirt in it do to having to use the dryer to blow air over the surface in order to evaporate the water in the base coat. I'd be using a solvent based paint to paint your parts especially for a novice. With the water your gonna have to know when the paint is actually dry enough to clear it, or you'll get "water" pop and you'll have to sand off everything you put on it and start over, sometimes it's actually tough to tell if it's dry or not.