LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

crap , starts idles runs fine til it gets hot

Old 03-25-2009, 06:33 AM
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Default crap , starts idles runs fine til it gets hot

after 20 min of idling it will shut off. Ran scanner, no codes. Used noids on injectors. No light. No spark. Swapped in fuel pump. New icm and new coil. It did blow two fuses, open for ignition and one for one set of F.Injectors. I don't know if the fuses went when i swapped the injector rail and reg. Also new spark plugs they were fuel soaked black soot. New O2's both sides
so re-cap what i found
1. no spark
2.no fuel at injectors
3.no codes present or history
4.used noids on injector harness, nothing.
5. Two fuses perhaps related or unrelated one for ingnition and one for half the injectors
6.new fuel pump, filters and reg.
7. one side of the O2 was at 444, other side was at 4

I'm fine with doing the work, I'm fine with buying a part. I just don't know what direction to go anymore
Old 03-25-2009, 06:33 AM
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sorry it was late when I posted.
94 z28. basic bolt on car. Cold air, Granatelli MAF, lt4 KM, full exhaust, electric cut out, hyper teched yeears ago. 342's 2800 9.5 vigalante stall. Nothing serious
With a possiable nitrous cam install back in '95. It will fine, run great for 15-20 ,then shut off. After very long extended cool down it will fire back up like nothing ever went wrong.
This problem just surfaced out of the blue one day. Fired up went to accelerate and it would misfire til it got to operating temp. Then was fine. Next time it did it It shut off under WOT. After 10 min fired up. I thought it was bad gas due to how fast the problem surfaced. I pulled fuel filter was dirty so I diagnoised bad fuel swapped filter and pump. It was not the problem. I swapped coil thinking age and heat go to it. Next day ran great no misfire. I had it idle later on while i was cleaning it. It went very rich and died. Thats where things went odd. I swapped ICM out thinking it was heat related and the reg; since I had a spare rail with everything on it. Then it wouldn't re-start. Found the two fuses blown. Swapped em. Car fired up ran great as it ever did. After 15-20 min it just dies.
I hope thats better description
Old 03-25-2009, 10:44 AM
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has it blown those fuses since the one time? what fuel pressure are you getting to rail? none, low, or is it normal after fuses were replaced? no spark after heating up? what does spark look like before heating up? just clearing up a few points
Old 03-25-2009, 11:52 AM
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going to get fuel preasure reading tonight. It was 10 pm last night when we running scanners
All I can say for 100%, no injector pulse, no spark. Fuses never blew before. Not sure if I triggered a surge when swapping rails. Tommorrow is going to be take out computer check connections and go from there. I have one spare computer.
Old 03-25-2009, 12:26 PM
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Find out what the fuel pressure is check what Rocky70304 said then I would look threw your harness see if theres any exposed wires.
Sounds like a PCM issue or (ground/short to ground) problem too.

Ive also seen fuel pump harness burnt up at the connection and not getting power. Whats your fuel pressure? You might have multiple issues at one time.
Old 03-26-2009, 12:20 AM
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something i never thought of
I've owned this car for three years coming up
since I've bought it. The security light has always been on. I only have one key. No chance the security is kicking in after running is there?
Old 03-26-2009, 12:45 AM
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The organe/white wire always breaks on our cars (VATS)
Its either the wire is open or the key is dirty/damaged.

This link for VATS troubleshooting http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html

This link for VATS bypass http://shbox.com/1/vats_bypass.jpg

This is the chart for the key value http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#pass_key

Last edited by LT1; 03-26-2009 at 12:58 AM.


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