LE heads and cam?
03-25-2009, 03:29 PM
#1
LE heads and cam? Ok I know that I got some advice and got alot of feedback but here goes. I have decided to go with elliotts performance for my head and cam package. I am go 218/224 cam. I just wanted to know if the hp #'s they give are realistic and accurate? And I want to go with the LE2 heads for the fact that I want better flow for the N2O I plan to use. Or should I save the money and just get the LE1's. Also one last thing. With a sticky tire,good clutch,stock suspension. What should/could I expect as 1/8th et's? I know thats alot to ask but thanks for the help.
03-25-2009, 03:35 PM
#2
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"All HP#’s mentioned are typical for an F-body with 6 speed, stock rear and all of the complimenting parts mentioned" So if your in an A4 youll be a little lower.
EDIT: just read you Sig, the HP ratings should be pretty realistic.
EDIT: just read you Sig, the HP ratings should be pretty realistic.
03-25-2009, 03:49 PM
#4
Yes it is a M6. And that is what I meant. What supporting mods? I was wondering if anyone uses that set-up and actually makes those #'s. I want to go with the smaller cam because that is the power that I want to make.And I don't want to "BEAT" my motor really bad. But if I can use a bigger cam and NOT "BEAT" my motor then I would love to do that. I could always use more power. Keep in mind I have less that 62k original miles on the car. After I do this I WILL NOT be driving it everyday. Will I need to replace the rr's as well? Thanks again
03-25-2009, 04:01 PM
#6
Always go for the best heads that you can afford so yes opt for the LE2's over the LE1's. You could step up the cam a tad and still be safe on the bottom end while having a little more performance. I would call Lloyd and get a personal recommendation but something in the 220's intake duration with about a 230 duration would work really well in your case which was my same concern. I run a 224/230 .570's lift 107lsa cam from him and my shiftpoints are set to 6400. I wont have numbers or track times until this summer but I put about 1,000 miles on my setup and the car is amazing to drive!
Yes you will need to replace the RR's. I would suggest you go NSA and I would recommend the Comp Cams NSA Pro-Mag 1.6's (#1305-16).
Yes you will need to replace the RR's. I would suggest you go NSA and I would recommend the Comp Cams NSA Pro-Mag 1.6's (#1305-16).
03-25-2009, 04:03 PM
#7
I make way more than he said I would. He told me 390 maybe more. Im making 425ish with a Big heavy Dana S60. I dynoed 413rwhp but that was b4 I went 3" True duals or any tune touch ups for them. Just listen to everything Lloyd says dont be afaid to ask question and tell him exactly what you want out of the car.
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03-25-2009, 04:06 PM
#8
ok. I will call him and get a recommendation from him. Just one last thing...FUEL? any upgrades that are necessary? how difficult is it to remove the heads myself with help from a properly trained mechanic that has a 97 SS camaro that is REALLY fast. and the proper tools?
03-25-2009, 04:17 PM
#10
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What he advertises is realistic. As far as bolt ons, he means full bolt ons, like headers, 1.6 roller rockers, TB, cat-back, injectors, etc. If you can afford better heads then by all means, but if you are hindered with cam selection then there is such a thing as too much head. This should be something you discuss with Lloyd. I tend to do the opposite and believe that there is no such thing as too much head, just not enough motor.
03-25-2009, 05:07 PM
#14
ok. I will call him and get a recommendation from him. Just one last thing...FUEL? any upgrades that are necessary? how difficult is it to remove the heads myself with help from a properly trained mechanic that has a 97 SS camaro that is REALLY fast. and the proper tools?
Doing a heads/cam swap isn't too hard. It just takes time and patience and a nice array of tools.
03-26-2009, 09:58 AM
#15
Thanks i will have all the tools that I need. The work will be done at my friends dealership mechanic shop. He can use on saturday and sunday anytime he wants. I will look into the fuel pump and injuectors. What about a fuel rail? Or anything else that may be necessary. I want to do it RIGHT the first time.
03-26-2009, 11:56 AM
#16
Thanks i will have all the tools that I need. The work will be done at my friends dealership mechanic shop. He can use on saturday and sunday anytime he wants. I will look into the fuel pump and injuectors. What about a fuel rail? Or anything else that may be necessary. I want to do it RIGHT the first time.
03-27-2009, 05:31 AM
#17
I would drop your motor out the bottom and put new bearings in it when you do the head swap.
It's not uncommon for a higher mileage car to spin a rod bearing after a head install. Seems the bearings sometimes dont like the release/retorque of the heads.
You have relatively low miles so you might be ok, but I would do it anyway for cheap insurance.
Plus R&Ring the heads will be soo much easier with the engine out.
.02
It's not uncommon for a higher mileage car to spin a rod bearing after a head install. Seems the bearings sometimes dont like the release/retorque of the heads.
You have relatively low miles so you might be ok, but I would do it anyway for cheap insurance.
Plus R&Ring the heads will be soo much easier with the engine out.
.02
03-27-2009, 06:05 AM
#18
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Rod bearing or cam bearing? The possibility of a cam bearing going bad seems to be hit or miss but could be because of bad cam removal or installation technique. I know someone with a head/cam package that has over 180,XXX on the stock shortblock. Checkout Advanced Inductions site. http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiPerfLT1.html
There are quite a few with over 100K on the odometer.
There are quite a few with over 100K on the odometer.
03-27-2009, 08:22 AM
#19
Rod bearing... Not disputing that some have ran high mileage stock short blocks with heads/cam. Just that I've heard of spinning a rod bearing after a head swap, to me its cheap insurance to throw bearings in it at the same time. I know will be...
