$750 L98

iTrader: (7)

I normally don't post here much as I have a 3rd gen, but i recently swapped in a 4L60E and a LQ9. Starting today the transmissions seems to slip.

I left work, and the transmission began slipping, in any gear the shifts seemed too soft and slow. Once it reaches 3-4 gear giving it any throttle causes it to slip out of gear.

Example, Once reaching 4th gear, the engine drops to around 2k rpm at about 55mph, upon giving it throttle the engine revs to 3k+ which I assume to be the transmission slipping back into 3rd gear?

This is totally out of the blue, and I haven't had any problems with the trans to date, so I get home and check fluid, nothing is showing on the dipstick, save for what I take to be residual fluid or spatter.

I put 1.5qts in and checked the fluid while in park, a very thin film showed on the dipstick (most likely the fluid clinging to the side of the tube). I have a couple question on the operation and possible issues:

1. The transmission should pump fluid in park correct? (as that is how they serviced it with new fluid)

2. If the transmission fluid pump goes out will the fluid fail to register on the dipstick?

3. what are the primary symptoms of pump failure, and are there other things to keep an eye out for?

Thanks in advance for the help, this swap has less than 10k miles on it and this transmission was supposedly built to hold 600rwtq+ and I am having a hard time believing a 350rwtq motor destroyed it...

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

If your saying that the fluid was low then I would say thats what destroyed it.
A trans out or low on fluid os like your heart without blood it will die very very quickly and 1.5 quarts in a 60e is very low.

$750 L98

iTrader: (7)

so there is nothing that would cause fluid not to show other than being dry correct? I checked the fluid a few weeks ago, some one had to have siphoned it lol

ill put some fluid in and see if it is still ok...should have built this myself, ending up rebuilding it alone anyway

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

The only thing that will cause low fluid on stick is if its actually low. Unfortunatley the damage is likley allready done.

$750 L98

iTrader: (7)

Thank you for the help, it's one thing after another with this car. I just got done re-wiring it! Well it is still low so I will try to refill it and see if I can limp along for a while until I can afford a new one, or fix my other car lol

Again, thanks, May be looking for a trans soon - I'll keep yall in mind.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Good luck with the added fluid hopefully it can get you by till you can use other options. And you are always welcome

$750 L98

iTrader: (7)

doesn't look like fluid will hold it over, filled it up and it keeps spitting it out, still slips in every gear, it will hold gear occasionally and then slips into what feels like neutral, then drops back into gear.

I suppose there is an overfill tube up top some where? I can see it leaking down the passenger side and all over my exhaust. Lovely smell.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Sorry If we can help let me know

$750 L98

iTrader: (7)

Turns out nothing I could do would save it. Previous shop that built my car used the wrong parts if i didn't know better i'd say they are TRYING to kill me.

$750 L98

iTrader: (7)

They used the incorrect exhaust manifolds (one LS1,one LQ9), the wrong flywheel (drilled holes to make it work), the wrong TQ converter, which caused binding, probably pump failure, and the shop is unable to remove it from the trans snout.

Before this it was wiring shorts everywhere...including a shorted fuel pump wire that nearly made it to the tank.

If a shop sold you parts as something they were not, did a poor install, refused to fix issues saying that "that's normal", and caused me to spend money to fix those issues, or replace parts...what can I do?

PedaltoMetal

sorry bout your luck dude I know that has to suck. I'm sure you'll get it right and running. If the converter was not installed properly it killed your pump and no amount of fluid was going to save it. about the shop.. I'm reminded of thishttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eAYfIzQpja0

$750 L98

iTrader: (7)

There will definitely be a thread on this when I have documentation and pictures, even if I am unable to take legal action. I certainly hope no one trusts them as I did, It was an ugly ride.

$750 L98

iTrader: (7)

Couple more questions:

1. What is the correct flywheel for a 6.0 with a 4l60E
2. What is the correct torque converter dimension for said combo

And while I'm at it, is it possible to tune a car to SOUND like it has a cam? I'm starting to think the parts I PAID for aren't actually in MY car.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Of course its possible same as you can make a cammed car sound near stock , But I would not totally freak out yet talk to who did the work and see where you end up first.

PedaltoMetal

I'm assuming the 4l60e didn't come from behind the lq9. Otherwise how could it be the wrong flexplate. Is the 4l60e from behind a LSX motor? If not you need a flexplate for a 4l80E (12551367) but you'll have to modify the bolt holes a bit to work with the 298mm converter instead of the LSX 300mm. If it is from behind a LSX, you need the beveled flexplate (12563136) I think.

Give us some more background info on the engine, transmission and the year of the car.

$750 L98

iTrader: (7)

sorry about that, It is a 1989 Formula 350. Not sure on the exact years, but i believe the trans is a split bell 4l60e, and the motor is an LQ9 with the aluminum 317 heads, which i believe is the later model?

The shop called and told me the verter is a 300mm and that is as much info as they have on it right now, it is seized up on the splines and won't come off.

The flywheel has been drilled out to make the bolts fit from what I am told and didn't have all of the bolts in it.

Not sure what style it is, but it sounds like an LT1 verter and flexplate stuck in between a LSX trans and a LSX motor doesn't it?

PedaltoMetal

No LT1 had a 300mm converter, thats an LSX thing. Those 2 extra mm make all the difference apparently. Is the trans separated from the engine? Otherwise how do you expect the converter to come off. Can you post pics of everything in question?

$750 L98

iTrader: (7)

Going to get pics and part numbers this monday or tuesday, i'm not quite sure how all of this is pieced together.

$750 L98

iTrader: (7)

Little update, I got some pictures. Looks like the wrong flexplate was used, causing binding, clicking, and improper starter engagement. No wonder this thing felt weird.

1. Flex plate looks to be a early LQ9 plate instead of a FRA-160 (dished LS1 style), Notice the ring from the converter rubbing. This was also incorrectly spaced, and the plate was pulled/bent toward the converter after being bolted down, causing the starter to grind when engaged.


2. The holes didn't align so they ground them out to make it fit, this is a six hole plate rather than a three hole. This was the "clunk" I heard when the trans was engaged.


3. I asked for a rebuilt high stall converter, unable to tell if this was even opened. 4L60E, 2800 stall written with sharpie.


4. Stator shaft splines are almost non existent, the converter wobbled on the shaft grinding them down it looks like.


Purchased a Yank ST2800 Stall to put in along with a few other goodies. Looks like the internals of the trans are all good, and show no wear except one over run clutch. It also has a "beast" sunshell and "Z pacs" along with a few other things, though the plastic accumulator piston was cracked. An aluminum unit went in its place. Everything else seems salvagable.

Definitely not the stage III I was told it was...