austingore44

Ok so i own a v6 mustang, and well ill cut str8 to the point Ford cant make a car sound how i want them to sound, nor can a v6. I love mustangs, and will never quit loving them, but right now a 5.7l ls1 trans am is just so cheap with the economy, for such a big engine theres no way i can turn it down. I will be getting about 17,000 out of my mustang because it has 10,000 in modifications done to it, and i found a 2000 ws6 ram air trans am with the 5.7l v8 and 66k miles for $7898. So i bet you can guess where the other 10k is going to go.

With all of the mods that i have listed below how much RWHP do you think i will have, and what do you think i would run in the 1/4 mile, keep in mind i will have a custom dyno tune for all of these parts to, and please dont say get a supercharger, thats in my plans down the road once i get enoguh cash again, but i want to start with all motor then go F/I

Some of the mods ive looked at so far is.


BBK 80mm Throttle Body - 1998-2002 LS1 F-Body $269.99
http://www.lmperformance.com/1864/1.html



SLP Cold Air Package, 00-02 LS-1 Camaro/Firebird (FlowPac) $320.35
http://www.lmperformance.com/2910/1.html



Comp Cams GEN III/LS1/LS6 350 Xtreme RPM HIGH LIFT XR265HR Cam $379.95
http://www.lmperformance.com/6360/1.html



SLP / AAM Ring & Pinion, 3.73, Gear Set 7.5'' & 7.625'' Differential $239.95
http://www.lmperformance.com/782/1.html



SLP Loud Mouth Exhaust System Loudmouth F-Car w/3.5'' Slash Tips $412.75
http://www.lmperformance.com/5573/1.html



SLP Header Package, 1-3/4 Long Tube 2001-02 Camaro/Firebird w/Y-Pipe/Cats/ Install Kit $1439.95
http://www.lmperformance.com/24191/1.html



18x8.5 Dale Earnhardt Jr Killer Chrome Plated/18x10 Dale Earnhardt Jr Killer Chrome Plated $1172
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Wheel...8163C&i2_Qty=2



245/40ZR18 Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec Blackwall/ 275/35ZR18 Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec Blackwall $902
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....8Z1SS&i3_Qty=2

TCI Torque Converter 3000+ Stall Speed $499.95
http://www.lmperformance.com/4170/1.html



UMI 1982-02 F-Body Double Adjustable Panhard Bar & Lower Control Arm Kit $342.99
http://www.lmperformance.com/18403/1.html



Baer SPORT-TOURING Brake Pads for Camaro/Firebird 1998-02 - Front Set $119.95
http://www.lmperformance.com/19033/1.html



Baer SPORT-TOURING Brake Pads for Camaro/Firebird 1998-02 - Rear Set $115.95
http://www.lmperformance.com/19034/1.html



Some mods i need advice on are, Im looking at a Head/Cam package instead of just buying the cam but i cant decide on the 2 different packages. They are

The only thing that is different about them is the CC size, and i have no clue what that means, im not good with camshafts, and heads

Patriot Performance GM LS6 CNC Ported 59cc Heads, 225/229 .580/.590 114 lsa Cam & Rocker Arm kit
http://www.lmperformance.com/19182/1.html


Patriot Performance GM LS6 CNC Ported 64cc Heads, 225/229 .580/.590 114 lsa Cam & Rocker Arm Kit
http://www.lmperformance.com/5097/1.html

Also should i go with the adjustable rocker arm, and should i go with a rocker ratio of 1.7 or 1.8?

NumberOneSled

iTrader: (1)

You can do much better than the mods listed. Go to the dyno section and check out other peoples set ups and see the numbers they're putting down. Good luck

austingore44

ok so, the mods i picked arent the best $ for the horsepower? i cant find to many websites that sell aftermarket engine parts for the camaro, the main website is http://www.lmperformance.com

99FormulaM6

iTrader: (21)

Check out some of the forum sponsors like Texas Speed, Thunder Racing and there are a bunch more...

You have a pretty good list, but you can do better for the money for sure. Best thing would be to find a shop on here, do some research on them, call them and tell them your goals and see what they can do for you

austingore44

does anyone know how much horsepower i would expect from this 400+?

nalmak

iTrader: (1)

Ok

Scratch the Dunlop's--Had them..Hated them..Go With Nitto 555, or Michellein Pilot's

Scratch SLP Headers--Fittement is not good..Go with a Stainless Set-up(LPP, KOOKS, ARH) if you want to save some coin you can go with Pacesetter. Hooker..But its not stainless

Gears--3.73 is great for a Automatic..If it stick go with 4.10

Rims--Up to you

Cam--Thats a VERY small cam you could go way bigger than that into the 230's and be cool and have great handling..Look more into cams

Intake--Stick with A LS6 or A Fast 90/90 or 92/92 setup

Exhaust--Its Loud..Very LOUD..Reaserch more on exhaust notes, before settling with the SLP one


With CC size the rule of thumb is the smaller the number the better Compression and more snap..Bigger numbers are usually for more HP I.E. Forced Induction, Nawwwzz etc etc

Rocker Arms..Stick with 1.7

austingore44

the tires werent really what was 100% im probally going to go with street radials, because im going to procharge later on, and do work with the drivetrain, and try to build up to around 800-900 hp. Me being 17 i like the slp exhaust being so loud, i had it on my mustang, until i needed to change out to str8 pipes to fit the body work. where can i find a WICKED Cam, and some heads that will go with it? Also i have no clue where to find a ls6 intake, and will that intake still fit directly into the 80mm throttle body?



EDIT: Ok i found out the ls6 intake comes stock on these cars would the fast 92/92 setup be

F.A.S.T. 92 MM Throttle Body For LSX Intake w/o TPS Sensor 54092
http://www.lmperformance.com/24166/1.html


FAST LSX Intake 92mm 54039
http://www.lmperformance.com/24161/1.html


And would i use the stock ls6 CAI with this?

bonestock99

iTrader: (1)

SLP loudmouth sounds really loud and is really obnoxious to drive when longtubes are installed, but I think it sounds great with otherwise stock exhaust. Just a tip so you dont end up buying anything twice. As for the throttle body it is not that much larger than stock 75mm so I would go with a F.A.S.T. 92mm intake manifold and Nick Williams tb. As for heads cam the AFR 205 heads are great as well as the LG Motorsports G5X3 cam(just installed cam longtubes and intake dynoed 422hp/396tq) It sounds awesome and has good drivability for a large cam. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6wYI8FMpUE SLP cold air package is very nice and works well but I hear there headers are a pain, right now the thing is LPP Stainless headers and they are about half the price. And with brakes if you want good brakes get rotors and pads, The stock rotors on F-bodys warp very easily even under normal driving. Wait until you find a cam to buy the torque converter so you can match them to the cam recommendations. Do yourself a favor and ask around about parts and performance, and dont always take a buisinesses word for it because we all know that their product is always better than the next and the perfect part for your application. So choose wisely and good luck! Peace out

nalmak

iTrader: (1)

Cams

Thunder Racing, Texas Speed, Futural...

Or spec your own

I would just go With a 92/92 Setup..Obviously you have cash to burn so get the biggest and baddest one!!..And if you get it ported even better!!

On these cars the SLP is LOUD..You being 17 you might like that, but for me being 24 it brings unwanted attention..cops..So its up to you

If your going Procharger go with the bigger CC on the heads, it will help out..

Ls6 intake..Check the for sale sections..PPL ARE always selling them..Ypu could nab one for 300-350 easy

teke184

iTrader: (5)

wow....i couldn't find anything on that list that was good.

you'd be hard pressed to hit 375rwhp with that cam


my list....searching will get info on them:

lid...any lid
FAST intake and nick williams throttle body
AFR 205, trickflow 215, or the new prc 215 from texas speed
any cam from the 228r up to some of the low 23x cams (tsp torquer 2, futral F13 or F14, or the "el torro")
cam upgrade package (gaskets, bolts, pushrods)
meziere electric water pump
pacesetter coated LT headers for budget, or Kooks stainless headers for no budget
custom 2.5" true dual exhaust with magnaflow 4x9 mufflers dumped at the axle
3500 to 4000 rpm stall converter
FLP rebuilt trans (wait till it blows)
the biggest trans cooler you can find
strange 12 bolt rear end with 3.73 or 3.90 gears
BMR - sub frame connectors, lower control arms, relocation brackets, torque arm and the relocation bracket, sway bars and strut tower bar.
brembo brake rotors...blanks...none of that stupid drilled/slotted ****
hawk HPS pads
russel stainless brake lines (might as well)


with a good dyno tune you'll be making killer power with great driveability, great handling, and plenty of noise to wake the neighboors.

austingore44

i heard some clips of that cam, and it sounds meannnnn, but which one should i go with out of those there are 8 selections, and i dont want sometihng im going to have to modify everything to make it fit. Like i said im terrible with cams and heads, i know basically nothing


should i go with the LG Motorsports G5X3 cam 2xx/2xx .600/.610 Lsa 112
or the LG Motorsports G5X3 cam 2xx/2xx .600/.610 Lsa 114

austingore44

with the above cam am i going to want TCI 4L60E Competition Torque Converter, 3800 Stall Speed, 2.6:1 STR 1998-2002 LS1 F-body & 1999-up GM Trucks w/ 4.8, 5.3 or 6.0L

or

TCI 4L60E Super Street Fighter Torque Converter, 3500 Stall Speed, 2.5:1 STR 1998-2002 LS1 F-body & 1999-up GM Trucks w/ 4.8, 5.3 or 6.0L


Or do i want to go with something smaller, or even bigger?

zacht

iTrader: (18)

i say get the car first. then start modding from there. if you've been rolling in a V6 mustang, take a moment and take in how much more power a stock LS1 is rolling. damn, its a 13 second car out of the box!!! your first off going to feel that world of difference.

go on with the mods from there, start with the basics-check the mechanicals first, make sure it runs good when you get it.

free mods.

bolt ons.

cam

heads

rear end

clutch

tranny

its all just one step at a time, unless you want your car down for weeks waiting on parts/getting work done.

its just weird, people get on here sayin "thinking about getting a LS1, how do i make it fast?" first off, it lays down around 300 to the wheels, runs sub 13's (ive seen 12's-lucky), and gets high 20s for mpg. what more can you want (ok, i know ) get used to having a fast STOCK car, then mod from there. when stock aint good, mod it. not everybody can just hop in a 500hp car and go ripping around.

blown03mustang

ok first off good choice by switchin to the fbody! i was skeptical about the switch but once i did it, i havent looked back. ok now heres my list of mods for you:

Lid: Any will do, they are all basically the same. Fast Toys, SLP, etc etc

Headers: LTs of course, Pacesetters/hookers are cheap and easy. QTPs, Kooks, and ARH are the more expensive but IMO have the best quality.

Exhaust: my advice is go with TDs the first time around. They sound better usually make more power than most Y pipe setups. I got my TDs for 250 that are custom made to my setup and have better clearance that my Y pipe ever did, plus i picked up power.

Stall: go with the yank/vig 3600

Cam: haha this could take a while. my best advice is be realistic with your goals and bigger is NOT always better. remember power under the curve!

REAREND: what good is 400 hp if you cant drive the car hard. so get a friggin rearend! Dana 60, 9", or a 12 bolt to name a few.

that should be a good starting point.

austingore44

its not like i cant handle the power, its just my car wasnt as powerful, ive drove 500rwhp Foxbody Trans ams, and ive drove corvettes, and vipers, Also a roush 427r. And as for the car being in down time for a couple weeks, really dosent bother me, considering my license is suspended for 5 more months... dont ask so that gives me plenty of time to work on the car. get it to the shop, get a nice dyno tune.

nine-eight

iTrader: (7)

Depends on your budget and what you want from the car. is this going to be a street car? weekend warrior? G-machine?

bbk 80mm TB isn't bad, but a 90mm might be a better option.

the slp air lid is a great idea.

the 212/218 is very mild and would be very driveable....if thats what you want. remember that the more cubic inches you have the easier time you'll have running a big cam and be able to get away with it. adjust your preferred cam specs to match your head's build and your intention of the car.


3.73's in an auto would be an excellent choice for an aggressive street car or cruiser.

everyone will know you have a loudmouth on it. your neighbors, the local cops, your friends, people three blocks away who don't even know who your *** is.

stainless steel headers from kooks or arh or QTP are the cream of the crop and are slightly more expensive than the slp's.

I wish you luck with the tire choice. I have a built 347 and 295's spin like butter on a warm plate doing anything under 30-40.

Talk to Sam Strano about suspension pieces. the man knows these chassis very well and stocks some great products. search for him on these forums. talk to him about brakes too.


everything below this line is my personal opinion
air lid is a no brainer. the flowpac induction scoop isn't worth much to me since it blocks a portion of the air flow to the a/c and radiator. I drive street cars, not race cars.

in a 346ci, you could stay around the low 230's duration and have a streetable car with an attitude. mid to high 230's and into 240's duration and you have a car that is compromising good manners for power higher up in the rpm range. I run a 236/238, shift at 7k, get 29.5 mpg on the highway, and run side by side with a consistant track car that runs mid elevens at sea level. I would like to step down to something around a 232/234.

4.10's will speed you up, but also put more strain on an already weak rear end design. I still have 3.42's and the rear end has taken it OK, but eventually 3.73's will go in. a larger cam likes more gear. match your parts.

magnaflow has an agressive sound, a stainless steel option, and excellent flow and is loud when you want it to be. then again, so is my 3" DMH cutout on my stocker exhaust.

maybe I just have worn out tires. but If I had my 3 wishes, I would want 315's to 325's under the car. Personally, I dont want drag tires since I like to corner carve. your power level doesnt matter to me since youve mentioned you might be going forced induction later, so with anything north of 600 crank hp your problems are going to be worse than mine.

a lower cc sized head indicates a smaller "squish" area that the piston can compress air and fuel into. you need to learn how to or pay someone to calculate compression ratios and determine what would be a good compression ratio for your motor. N/A 11.0:1 is tolerable with aluminum block and heads, FI would rather see 9:1 or lower depending on your combination. you could build a nasty NA motor, ring it for nitrous, pull 430rwhp in a driveable package N/A and have a 150 shot lurking under the hood.

stick with the 1.7's



Good luck!

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

I've got to know, what kind of mustang do you have???

I mean, you have 10k invested in a v6 mustang..

And also, what makes you think that just because you have 10k invested in it that you will ever get that back out of it? Before I got into LS cars, I was into s10's pretty big. Last one I had was bagged, had a 350, and made it into Mini-Truckin magazine. Had over 20k in the truck and all I could get out of it was 12k..

I'm not trying to be the only person to come into the thread and "hate", I just really am curious..

not7fifteen

iTrader: (8)

This has to be a joke...

Lopoetve

iTrader: (1)

dude, don't just pick parts going down the SLP list - actually plan things out, do some research, and look around. You'll get more power, spend less, and have more fun. Start at the FAQ above, and the FAQ in the newbie section.

Lopoetve

iTrader: (1)

fasttoys.net
byunspeed.com
ws6store.com