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Old 03-29-2009, 11:10 PM
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Default P1153 I searched....

As posted, I searched.... I promise.

Anyways, quick bio: I just purchased my third Z, and the car is BONE stock. I mean no mods at all. Still has skip shift.

Stupid me, I purchased a bottle of the cheapo STP fuel injector cleanor that you pour directly in the gas tank. I put it in with about half of a tank (save me the flaming).

While driving it home, the car threw the infamous P1153 but 3 hours after the injetor cleanor was poured in. Every post I read is related to O2heat issues and aftermarket headers.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
Old 03-31-2009, 07:35 PM
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how many miles are on it could just be a lazy o2 and just might need a new one
Old 03-31-2009, 08:46 PM
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which O2 would it be? which side? i bought used headers that had all 4 o2's in them and just pluged them in and it worked. i deleted AIR and EGR so i already know im throwing codes. i just pulled p0153 and p1153 which is both bank 2 sensor one.

would that be the passenger side? first O2? i have the stock ones out of my exhaust still, and can switch them out.
Old 04-02-2009, 10:22 AM
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I had this on my vette and it was due to the o2 wires getting hot / melting from being too close to the headers.
Old 04-16-2009, 10:50 AM
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Thanks for all of the responses guys, sorry for taking so long to get back.

The car has 100K. The code went off within 250 miles of me driving it. I wish I could delete the AIR and EGR but I am in California. Ill check to see if the wires are too close to the headers also.

Will this code effect anything performance/fuel economy wise or is it just a dummy light to indicate my 02's are malfunctioning?
Old 04-16-2009, 03:43 PM
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o2 sensor issues (and codes) won't affect WOT performance, but will affect driveability (around town peformance, idle, etc), and fuel economy.
Old 04-16-2009, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by blkZmaro

Will this code effect anything performance/fuel economy wise or is it just a dummy light to indicate my 02's are malfunctioning?
I will make it run in open loop, which means it will run like **** and get bad gas mileage.

The real answer is to connect the car to a scanning tool and look at the O2 switching. If it's real slow or flat, it's a bad O2 sensor.

If it's just slow but works fine off idle you can delete the code and it will keep the O2 sensors from sticking it in open loop when it's not supposed to be there.

Good info here but you need to read ALL of it.
Old 04-17-2009, 09:28 AM
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Thats great information. Thanks guys, I have a header swap coming soon so Ill be running sims in the back and getting the Corvette's extension/02 setup anyway. I appreciate all of the help!
Old 04-17-2009, 10:17 AM
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P0153 indicates that the average time it takes to switch between rich and lean set points in a given sample period is too long. P1153 indicates that the number of switches in a given sample period is too low. When both of them set, its usually points to a faulted sensor or one that is not "lighting off", i.e. getting hot enough.
Old 04-17-2009, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by irocbsa
P0153 indicates that the average time it takes to switch between rich and lean set points in a given sample period is too long. P1153 indicates that the number of switches in a given sample period is too low. When both of them set, its usually points to a faulted sensor or one that is not "lighting off", i.e. getting hot enough.
Yea, but it's only a problem during idle (for me anyway)
I have two cars that are virtually identical, but as they say tuning for one doesn't work for another.
So for one I had to delete the code for slow switching to prevent running in open loop.
Actually I could probably un-delete the code because the problem was a set of new Bosch sensors dying.
Which leads me to......
Originally Posted by blkZmaro
Thats great information. Thanks guys, I have a header swap coming soon so Ill be running sims in the back and getting the Corvette's extension/02 setup anyway. I appreciate all of the help!
Like I said, read ALL of that post. There is mention of the corvette O2's actually being rated at a different wattage which means they run colder.
Know why people run these? Because they are mislead into believing they run hotter. Or it's just the fact they have a longer wire, and because they're for a vette they must be better.

You need to run OEM F Body replacements and quality extensions. Or do as you will and learn the expensive way like several have.
Old 04-17-2009, 05:44 PM
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Okay, I just read the entire 9 pages.

LT's or stock I NEED the SES light off for Cali smog in two years. If I have it tuned out will the smog inspection site be able to tell?

If so, tune and I am done.

If not, since I am all stock...Ill replace what I hope to be a bad sensor. From Shevrolays post, he went through EVERY 02 available, and had the best luck with replacing with AC Delco AFS97 and AFS98.

When and now IF I do the LT's ill wrap them before the cats, lightly shorten the bungs, and pray to the 02 gods.

Does this seem to be the right track?
Old 04-17-2009, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by blkZmaro
LT's or stock I NEED the SES light off for Cali smog in two years. If I have it tuned out will the smog inspection site be able to tell?


Does this seem to be the right track?
Seems like the right track to me.
As far as the smog inspection I have no clue. I do know that I have (if I remember correctly) four O2 sensor related switching codes shut off for the two front sensors. Every time I'm out tuning, I was out tuning earlier today, I click DTC and Readiness in hp tuners scanner and all O2 related tests come back as passed.
Old 04-27-2009, 11:19 PM
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Sorry, one last question. Will rear 02 simulators close the loop or just turn off the SES light?
Old 04-28-2009, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by blkZmaro
Sorry, one last question. Will rear 02 simulators close the loop or just turn off the SES light?
close the loop.




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