Underdrive Pulley Installation
#2
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
1 - Pulley
2 - Belts
1 - New crank bolt
3 jaw puller to remove, put a bushing or old socket in crank bolt hole to protect end.
GM special tool if available, if not, go buy a M16 x 2.0 x 120mm bolt and a large washer.
1) Hand start the pulley on the crank to assure straightness.
2) Apply grease to both sides of washer.
3) Insert 120mm bolt and hand tighten with ratchet until tight.
4) Remove 120mm bolt and insert old pulley bolt. Tighten to 240 lb ft.
5) Remove bolt, crank should be recessed .094 - .176 into balancer.
6) Insert new bolt and tighten to 35 lb ft and then turn another 140*
2 - Belts
1 - New crank bolt
3 jaw puller to remove, put a bushing or old socket in crank bolt hole to protect end.
GM special tool if available, if not, go buy a M16 x 2.0 x 120mm bolt and a large washer.
1) Hand start the pulley on the crank to assure straightness.
2) Apply grease to both sides of washer.
3) Insert 120mm bolt and hand tighten with ratchet until tight.
4) Remove 120mm bolt and insert old pulley bolt. Tighten to 240 lb ft.
5) Remove bolt, crank should be recessed .094 - .176 into balancer.
6) Insert new bolt and tighten to 35 lb ft and then turn another 140*
#6
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
Your right that a threaded rod is the best but so is using the J-tool from Kent Moore but not everyone has access to that. If you take your time and lubricate the friction surfaces, it goes on very easily. A 120mm bolt will grab plenty of threads or you could buy longer. I put a Summit one on the other night and it went great.
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#9
I just put the front up on ramps when I did my install, you may also need a cheater bar to slip over the breaker bar such as a big pipe to get additional leverage to get the old crank bolt loose.
#13
I put my UD pulley in the oven for 45 minutes @ 275 degrees, then took a MAP gas torch to the center for a couple of minutes and the pulley slide right on. and thats about all the time I had cuz once it was on it wasnt moving, mines an SLP pulley.