Where is the best place to weld the bung for a wideband? For LT1
04-02-2009, 12:46 PM
#1
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Where is the best place to weld the bung for a wideband? For LT1 Where is the best plae to mount the 02 sensor? Im tuning for nitrous, I was thinking drivers side collector on the other side across from the narrowband 02 sensor. Also I got the Dynojet wideband commander, is this a good wideband for my car?
04-02-2009, 04:51 PM
#2
TECH Regular
Widebands like some heat but not like your narrowbands do. The bank won't matter much since you can't individually tune each bank. I mounted my LC1 about 6 inches back from the narrowbands and it works great, comes up to temp in a minute or less. That dynojet should be fine for your setup. Just make sure you mount it in the 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock range or similar so the condensation doesn't ruin your sensor.
04-02-2009, 07:54 PM
#3
Take into account the correct length from the heads in conjuction with placement of the bung also. Which side of the car is determined by the cable lengths on your wideband to the guage and controller. You don't want to weld in the bung only later to find out the cables going to the wide band controller and/or guages are too short.
For example: IMO the cable from the LC-1 controller is too short to reach into the cabin unless you do some serious hole cutting on the firewall or floorpan of the car. Nor is the cable from the controller going to the 02 sensor cable.
So if you have an LC-1 make sure you leave room to disconnect the controller and 02 sensor cable. My installer didn't install it correctly and as a result I had to remove the PCM on the firewall in order to get to the controller in order to get the the cable connectors to disconnect the O2 sensor cable. There are also terminator plugs on the LC-1 controller so to remove or insert meant I had to remove the PCM in order to insert or remove the terminator plug.
In short - understand completely how you will use the wideband and the function of each cable before you start welding, cutting, and installing (I guess my installer didn't think about the hazzle it would be to have to remove the PCM to get to the controller so I could remove the O2 sensor if it ever went bad). Same for the terminator plug.
Try to always weld the bung so the O2 sensors always points outward out rather than inward making cable routing much easier.
As for placement of the bung. Take into account where each pipe merges into the collector. My tuner says he thinks there might be some turbulence probably giving false readings. Why? Because the bung is too close to the merge collector.
Measure twice - cut once is probably best.
FWIW - the AEM is a piece of cake to install vs the LC-1. I removed the LC-1 and replaced it with an AEM.
I plan to use the cable from the LC1 - to hang the installer who installed it.
For example: IMO the cable from the LC-1 controller is too short to reach into the cabin unless you do some serious hole cutting on the firewall or floorpan of the car. Nor is the cable from the controller going to the 02 sensor cable.
So if you have an LC-1 make sure you leave room to disconnect the controller and 02 sensor cable. My installer didn't install it correctly and as a result I had to remove the PCM on the firewall in order to get to the controller in order to get the the cable connectors to disconnect the O2 sensor cable. There are also terminator plugs on the LC-1 controller so to remove or insert meant I had to remove the PCM in order to insert or remove the terminator plug.
In short - understand completely how you will use the wideband and the function of each cable before you start welding, cutting, and installing (I guess my installer didn't think about the hazzle it would be to have to remove the PCM to get to the controller so I could remove the O2 sensor if it ever went bad). Same for the terminator plug.
Try to always weld the bung so the O2 sensors always points outward out rather than inward making cable routing much easier.
As for placement of the bung. Take into account where each pipe merges into the collector. My tuner says he thinks there might be some turbulence probably giving false readings. Why? Because the bung is too close to the merge collector.
Measure twice - cut once is probably best.
FWIW - the AEM is a piece of cake to install vs the LC-1. I removed the LC-1 and replaced it with an AEM.
I plan to use the cable from the LC1 - to hang the installer who installed it.
04-02-2009, 10:53 PM
#4
TECH Regular
^^ Or you can do like I did, I just ran the wiring for the LC1 through the shifter boot. I have another 5 feet of wires that I tucked under the radio pod. No hole cutting in any of the body and the rubber in the boot sealed it up nicely. Mine is a permanant mount so it will never come out of the car and when I replace the sensor all I have to do is pull the connector through the boot hole and it's done.
