1.8t

For those who remember my previous thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...take-pics.html , I am STILL having this issue. I am running a properly setup and functioning catch can, my leak down test came out good, and I had the valvestem seals replaced by Vengeance Racing.

However, I did notice something quite interesting upon pulling the IM off this time around. There is a pooling of oil on top of each intake valve that is closed. Is it possible that my nearly damn brand new valve stem seals are leaking?? The car doesn't smoke but is definitely burning oil via random checks on the dipstick. This **** is REALLY starting to **** me off.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Question, are your heads ported to the point that the intake rocker arm bolts protrude into the intake runner? If so, you could be leaking oil from there into the intake runner.

1.8t

No, the heads are unported.

2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

I had the same problem, I used to burn 2 quarts in 200 miles. The bottom end was built incorrectly. I built a new short bock myself this time and no more oil burning... Do a leak down and a compression test. Look at your plugs are they coated in oil?

1.8t

Leak down test was already performed as was a compression test. Comp was 205 across the board and the leak down was 4~7 percent for every cylinder. The motor is healthy.

2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

Just an FYI, my worst leak downs were 6%. After throwing a couple thousand at it trying to find out why it was burning oils so badly, I decided to tear it down. A few pistons were installed on the wrong side of the motor. Since the wrist pins were offset, they were offset the wrong way so at the bottom of the stroke oil would get past the rings. I also heard a few instances from a couple people that the rings were installed upside down... How many miles on this motor??

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

But he said that he sees oil puddling on the backside of the intake valves, to me that's coming from the top end, which would point to bad valve seals or pcv setup.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Before anything else is done, I would put breathers on the motor, and cap everything off that connects the intake to the valve covers, the small line from the TB to the passenger's side valve cover, put a metco breather on in place of the oil fill cap, and take the PCV system and put a breather filter on the end of the PCV line that usually has the valve on it, and see what that gets you.

Pull the intake and clean it all out, clean the tb, clean the intake ports out with a rag and some carb clean the best you can so it's all as clean as you can get it, put it back together, do an oil change and see what that gets you.

If that doesn't solve the issue, you either have a valve seal/head related problem, or a bottom end problem. One or the other.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

New seals won't do much if the guides are tango uniform....
Retainers aren't hitting the top of the seals, are they?
I think I'd pull the heads, and take a look.

2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

I had oil in my intake ports and on the back of the valves... Reversion pushes it right past the valves. But as JL-WS6 said, plug the lines into your intake and run a breather and see what happens. I even went as far as putting a vacuum pump on and it didn't help. If the heads are new then you can pretty much rule out the valve seals and guides. Kepp us posted as to what you try and what you find each time.

1.8t

The car broke its timing chain a while ago and I pulled the heads and sent them off to WCCH to ensure the guides/everything else was good to go. They said the guides were perfectly fine. This is the stock bottom end and prior to the TC break, the car did not burn one single drop of oil. I wil plug up the intake and remove the catch can(I already have a oil cap with a breather) and see how that works for me. I don't know if this is really going to do much for me as the amount of oil I am seeing in the IM I don't think could possibly be coming through the PCV.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

It probably isn't coming thru the PCV I agree with that, but at least this will rule it out.

Peppershaker

Had about the same problem you had; have catch can installed a routed correctly and also have a inline fuel filter inline between intake manifold and catch can so I could see if any thing was geting past catch can. Had a problem back about the first of the year with a leaking head gasket was getting water into 1 cylinder so I was having to pull the heads off to replace head gaskets. When I pulled the intake manifold off I was shocked how much oil had been getting in. Even though the catch can was collecting about 3 ounces every 1000 miles or so and the inline fuel filter looked clean. Had a film of oil all over the floor of the manifold like yours and the back intake port on the driver side had a sludgey build up like I couldn't believe. Cleaned ever thing real good. Installed the new head gaskets and washed out the intake real good. Looked ever thing over real good and noticed very light film of oil on back side of throttle body at port were hose hooked to valve cover. Plugged off throttle body and front tube on valve cover on passenger side and haven't been getting any oil inside since. Was just reading this and went out side and pulled the throttle body off again and checked since it's been 4 months since I did this and took a flash light and looked all the way up inside the manifold and there is still no sign of oil in the manifold now. So my oil was coming from thr hose hooked to the throttle body. Hope this helps.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

That's the line that is going to pull most of the oil in, because it's a constant suction.

Get rid of that POS, get rid of all of it, put a good catch can/breather system on the car and the intake tract will stay clean.

The only thing that's worse is a car with EGR that's sucking the oil too. Now you have the car sucking in dirty exhaust and the oil. No good for power, mileage, or engine life.

Tree huggers will hate you for taking that crap off and venting the engine to the atmosphere... that's the only downside. That and the oil will get dirty a little quicker... but that's easily resolved by changing it every 2000 to 2500 miles instead of waiting for every 3000.

1.8t

My CC setup right now has the passenger side valvecover vent plugged. The catch can is connected from the valley cover and then to the IM nipple...which is right after the TB. The whole system is vented via a breather oil cap. I am highly, highly doubtful that all of this oil could be coming from the valley cover nipple, but I guess I have nothing else to lose. What probably happened is that when the pistons hit the valves, it fucked my oil rings up somehow??? Hell if I know, I am so sick of this stupid crap.

1.8t

I am probably burning oil at the rate of 1qt for every 1500 miles. This is the stock bottom end with 17k miles on it. It burned absolutely NOTHING prior to my timing chain breaking at 15k miles. I did not replace the pistons. I do have trouble seeing how my oil ring could be F'ed considering the car did so well on the leak down test(which means the top compression ring is obviously doing its job).

Just did a quick visual and the little spring is still attached on all of the valvestem seals. I checked the hose from the catch can to the intake mani and it was as dry as could be. With how much oil I am seeing in the mani, I am sure there would at least have to have been some residue in the hose. I will still plug everything up and cross my fingers. I am tired of working on this damn thing.