New Camera!
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Not to be a jerk Bob, but a Canon SLR is always better than an Olympus.
Not to mention that as a "published" armature photographer I have collected a number of very expensive lenses. I would imagine you did as well, why switch bodies to a new brand that you can not use your lenses on?
Im confused
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Alex,
I've had Olympus Camera's since I was in the Army in 1977, learned on a OM-series camera, and love the way they design cameras.
Thier lens products are known to have "good glass" and I regret getting the Canon- which was big and not as refined as the Olympus products.
Eventually I will get the professionals E-3 with the works- but for now I have an excellent camera and three lenses for under $1,000!
Plus- I think that lighting and basic photography skills trump pricetags any day.
I've had Olympus Camera's since I was in the Army in 1977, learned on a OM-series camera, and love the way they design cameras.
Thier lens products are known to have "good glass" and I regret getting the Canon- which was big and not as refined as the Olympus products.
Eventually I will get the professionals E-3 with the works- but for now I have an excellent camera and three lenses for under $1,000!
Plus- I think that lighting and basic photography skills trump pricetags any day.
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Dum dum dum. I forget these things sometimes
I'll hit ya up when I'm done digging trenches
Car's under the cover in the corner right now. Not for long, I hope to start working on it by memorial day weekend.
Before it starts coming apart I'll have to have ya pop by and snap some pictures, becuase the before and after photo's are gonna be pretty dramatic I think. Track results as well, at least I hope
I'll hit ya up when I'm done digging trenches
Car's under the cover in the corner right now. Not for long, I hope to start working on it by memorial day weekend.
Before it starts coming apart I'll have to have ya pop by and snap some pictures, becuase the before and after photo's are gonna be pretty dramatic I think. Track results as well, at least I hope
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Alex,
I've had Olympus Camera's since I was in the Army in 1977, learned on a OM-series camera, and love the way they design cameras.
Thier lens products are known to have "good glass" and I regret getting the Canon- which was big and not as refined as the Olympus products.
Eventually I will get the professionals E-3 with the works- but for now I have an excellent camera and three lenses for under $1,000!
Plus- I think that lighting and basic photography skills trump pricetags any day.
I've had Olympus Camera's since I was in the Army in 1977, learned on a OM-series camera, and love the way they design cameras.
Thier lens products are known to have "good glass" and I regret getting the Canon- which was big and not as refined as the Olympus products.
Eventually I will get the professionals E-3 with the works- but for now I have an excellent camera and three lenses for under $1,000!
Plus- I think that lighting and basic photography skills trump pricetags any day.
If you have Olympus lenses before, then I understand.
I agree with you with reguard for knowledge of lighting and skill etc, but even the worlds best Photogropher will not be able to take a decent picture if the light getting to the film/sensor has to do through the bottom of a coke bottle. Aberation, barrel distortion, ghosting, lack of saturation, you can not compisate for a bad lens with skill. But skill, with great glass will give you a great picture.
You can correct for a lot with Photoshop, but at the end of the day, a sharp lens is a sharp lens.
When I bought my first Nikon body, I bought a Sigma 18-125 F3.5-5.6 [$250]lens, it was sharp... I thought... untill I got a Nikon 17-55 F2.8 [$1250] The difference is night and day... the clarity, the sharpness, the lack of aberation, the lack of distortion is truly impressive.
When I used to work at Best Buy, I would only recomend Canon and Nikon, but people did ask for Olympus because they had lenses from the time of their 35mm use. I could not argue that point of it, but if you are starting from scratch, if you do not have money for a Hasselblad, but a Canon or a Nikon.
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Yes, the lenses are "interchangable" but only with your mount. Some Fuji SLR bodies use the Nikon AF-Mount since Fuji has not make a good lens since the days of Edward Weston, but most camera's are propriatary [sp] There are third party manufacturers that make lenses for all mounts, Sigma, Tokina, Tamaron and so on, but i strongly believe that Canon and Nikon glass is the best, aside for Zeiss.
If you have Olympus lenses before, then I understand.
I agree with you with reguard for knowledge of lighting and skill etc, but even the worlds best Photogropher will not be able to take a decent picture if the light getting to the film/sensor has to do through the bottom of a coke bottle. Aberation, barrel distortion, ghosting, lack of saturation, you can not compisate for a bad lens with skill. But skill, with great glass will give you a great picture.
You can correct for a lot with Photoshop, but at the end of the day, a sharp lens is a sharp lens.
When I bought my first Nikon body, I bought a Sigma 18-125 F3.5-5.6 [$250]lens, it was sharp... I thought... untill I got a Nikon 17-55 F2.8 [$1250] The difference is night and day... the clarity, the sharpness, the lack of aberation, the lack of distortion is truly impressive.
When I used to work at Best Buy, I would only recomend Canon and Nikon, but people did ask for Olympus because they had lenses from the time of their 35mm use. I could not argue that point of it, but if you are starting from scratch, if you do not have money for a Hasselblad, but a Canon or a Nikon.
If you have Olympus lenses before, then I understand.
I agree with you with reguard for knowledge of lighting and skill etc, but even the worlds best Photogropher will not be able to take a decent picture if the light getting to the film/sensor has to do through the bottom of a coke bottle. Aberation, barrel distortion, ghosting, lack of saturation, you can not compisate for a bad lens with skill. But skill, with great glass will give you a great picture.
You can correct for a lot with Photoshop, but at the end of the day, a sharp lens is a sharp lens.
When I bought my first Nikon body, I bought a Sigma 18-125 F3.5-5.6 [$250]lens, it was sharp... I thought... untill I got a Nikon 17-55 F2.8 [$1250] The difference is night and day... the clarity, the sharpness, the lack of aberation, the lack of distortion is truly impressive.
When I used to work at Best Buy, I would only recomend Canon and Nikon, but people did ask for Olympus because they had lenses from the time of their 35mm use. I could not argue that point of it, but if you are starting from scratch, if you do not have money for a Hasselblad, but a Canon or a Nikon.
Well said...
And if his rebel was big........
I can't Imagine what he would say about my 1d mark IIN....
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exactly...
When I used to sell 'em, people would look at the Rebel and say "wow that's a big camera..." compared to a compact pint and shoot yes, but compare that to a full body SLR with a vertical release grip and a 600mm lens and THEN tell me its big
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The Olympus E-3 is one of the fastest DSLR's, and thier lenses are second to none:
Imagine all the spectacular images you can capture using the E-3's 1/8000 second high-speed shutter, while shooting at maximum aperture even under very bright lighting conditions. Without a doubt, the E-3 will allow you to fully enjoy the superior imaging power of Zuiko Digital lenses. What's more, the E-3 boasts an ultra-fast shutter release time, allowing instant shooting for superior tracking and response. The camera also employs a highly reliable mirror construction — engineered to achieve the precision required for the high-speed 1/8000 second shutter.
Here's the lens to use at the track with the Pro E-3:
It's only $2,499!
The 35-100 mm f2.0 Pro ED Telephoto Zuiko Digital Lens™ from Olympus® is designed to fulfill your digital photographic needs. This high-performance telephoto lens features a maximum aperture of f2.0 for shooting beautiful low light pictures or capturing subjects with the background out of focus. It includes four ED glass lenses and one super ED glass lens to produce optical clarity and contrast from one-edge of the image to the other. In addition, it features a built-in CPU that directly communicates with the camera’s software for enhanced control and accuracy. The lens boasts of a closest focusing distance of 0.38 ft and offers a image magnification of 0.09x. With 21-elements-in-18-groups lens construction and a weight of 3.64 lbs, the Zuiko Digital Lens™ offers versatile, high-quality images consistently and comes with a lens cap, a lens hood and a lens case.
Imagine all the spectacular images you can capture using the E-3's 1/8000 second high-speed shutter, while shooting at maximum aperture even under very bright lighting conditions. Without a doubt, the E-3 will allow you to fully enjoy the superior imaging power of Zuiko Digital lenses. What's more, the E-3 boasts an ultra-fast shutter release time, allowing instant shooting for superior tracking and response. The camera also employs a highly reliable mirror construction — engineered to achieve the precision required for the high-speed 1/8000 second shutter.
Here's the lens to use at the track with the Pro E-3:
It's only $2,499!
The 35-100 mm f2.0 Pro ED Telephoto Zuiko Digital Lens™ from Olympus® is designed to fulfill your digital photographic needs. This high-performance telephoto lens features a maximum aperture of f2.0 for shooting beautiful low light pictures or capturing subjects with the background out of focus. It includes four ED glass lenses and one super ED glass lens to produce optical clarity and contrast from one-edge of the image to the other. In addition, it features a built-in CPU that directly communicates with the camera’s software for enhanced control and accuracy. The lens boasts of a closest focusing distance of 0.38 ft and offers a image magnification of 0.09x. With 21-elements-in-18-groups lens construction and a weight of 3.64 lbs, the Zuiko Digital Lens™ offers versatile, high-quality images consistently and comes with a lens cap, a lens hood and a lens case.
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lol
when will you even use a shutter speed that fast? with a ISO3200 shotting directly into he sun?
Honesty, at the track I rarely go above a 1/250sec shutter speed, and never have a problem getting the car with the wheels in the air. I also rarely use anything higher then a ISO100
There is no need for fact shutters, especialy if you can blur the background like this:
take with a Nikon D200 [RAW Caprute] + Sigma 80-400 f/4.5-5.6 OS
ISO100 under 1/200sec shutter
Bob, Im know you like your Olympus, and I'm sure you will take some killer shots with it, but I have to honestly say that going away from Canon is a mistake. Look at any major sporting even, any major automotive race, and 65% of the pro's will be using Canon, 34% using Nikon, and 1% using other, one assume there is a reason for that.
when will you even use a shutter speed that fast? with a ISO3200 shotting directly into he sun?
Honesty, at the track I rarely go above a 1/250sec shutter speed, and never have a problem getting the car with the wheels in the air. I also rarely use anything higher then a ISO100
There is no need for fact shutters, especialy if you can blur the background like this:
take with a Nikon D200 [RAW Caprute] + Sigma 80-400 f/4.5-5.6 OS
ISO100 under 1/200sec shutter
Bob, Im know you like your Olympus, and I'm sure you will take some killer shots with it, but I have to honestly say that going away from Canon is a mistake. Look at any major sporting even, any major automotive race, and 65% of the pro's will be using Canon, 34% using Nikon, and 1% using other, one assume there is a reason for that.
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I've always had good experiences with the Sigma Lens (here's a shot) but the Canon would always give me problems with the Auto setting- forcing me to go Aperture Priority.. slows me down.
Here's one with available light w/Sigma wide open:
Here's one with available light w/Sigma wide open:
Last edited by Mr. B; 04-09-2009 at 09:18 AM.
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I have heard that Canon is not as good with third party lenses.
Use Manual dude, always get better shots. I have not used an automated Av/Tv mode in years...
Always Manual only...
I do leave WB in auto tho, its easy to fix if Photoshop Raw edit if need be.