What do yall think of this turbo cam?
04-09-2009, 06:10 AM
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What do yall think of this turbo cam? What do yall think of this turbo cam? 239/243..624/624..115-116LSA. This is for a 408 APS TT Larger turbo kit. Motor is around 9.4 comp using TFS 235 heads. Will this cam make more tq or more hp? How do you think it will spool. Thank you
04-09-2009, 06:48 AM
#3
Sounds like a really healthy cam for a turbo 408, it will have a bit of chop to it though. I believe it will spool great so long as all of your other components are properly matched. Is it a street/strip set-up or a daily driver? If it were me, I would use the cam you suggested as long as it isn't your daily driver. You will definately be able to daily the car with this cam, but it is not the most friendly for daily use. I only say that because I feel like the lift on the cam you suggested is a bit much for a daily. I'm going with the EPP FI cam on my turbo 370, and that one is 232-240...595-.608..115 LSA for use on a street/strip car with A/C and all. GL with your cam install.
04-09-2009, 07:25 AM
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Sounds like a really healthy cam for a turbo 408, it will have a bit of chop to it though. I believe it will spool great so long as all of your other components are properly matched. Is it a street/strip set-up or a daily driver? If it were me, I would use the cam you suggested as long as it isn't your daily driver. You will definately be able to daily the car with this cam, but it is not the most friendly for daily use. I only say that because I feel like the lift on the cam you suggested is a bit much for a daily. I'm going with the EPP FI cam on my turbo 370, and that one is 232-240...595-.608..115 LSA for use on a street/strip car with A/C and all. GL with your cam install.
04-09-2009, 07:28 AM
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What lsa does every use on a turbo cam? 114? 115? 116? The cam stated above was speced out by Comp Cam(239/243). Do they know there stuff? Or should I let a turbo shop like LMR spec one out.They gave me around about specs and they said around mid 240's/250..620's lift
Last edited by jeremym; 04-09-2009 at 07:34 AM.
04-09-2009, 07:59 AM
#6
115 and up is usually a good LSA for a forced induction cam. You want a higher LSA in a forced induction application to avoid bleeding off boost. Comp cams knows there stuff pretty good. If it is your weekend warrior, go with the cam you first mentioned "239/243..624/624..115-116LSA." I'm sure you will be happy with it.
04-09-2009, 08:38 AM
#7
APS used this lingenfelter cam in their build,lingenfelter gt11,a 346 build. Not actually their usual recommended turbo cam which is the gt-7.That one is used across the line in their 346, 408, 427s even.
Camshaft specifications: 215/231 duration @ .050 .631/.644 with 1.7 ratio rocker arms 118.0 CL. This camshaft will require dual valve spring kit 26921-KIT. Camshafts ground by Competition Cams for Lingenfelter.
I felt it was too high for duration and would put the car too close to valve float with .650 springs and require to freqent valve spring changes.But it looked like it would idle pretty nice and not have any noticeable lope.
Comp builds lingenfelter cams. And lingenfelter knows a thing or two about turbo cars but think their primary goal in their turbo cams are to keep stock like streetabilty. So they may be giving up in some areas over some of the other cams . I have seen great numbers with just about every variation of cam. Reverse split, normal split, no split, fairly low stock type lift, medium lifts and high lifts and low and high lsa.
I think the more imporant choices are lsa .do you want a noticeable lope..I didn't .
Lift how much do you think you can handle with your springs and how often do you want to change them. Duration again how agressive do you want to go.Bigger engines can handle more duration.
I don't think you are going to change potential max horsepower with a cam. The turbos will max out I think no matter what cam just going to take more boost if the cam don't flow as much air thru the engine as a different one. You should be able to get to 1300 engine hp with your upgraded kit and engine size and cylinder heads are also not going to change max potential of the turbos just change the amount of boost needed to hit max power. Powerband changes from engine size, head selection and cam selection will of course happen. And off boost more differences will emerge. Turbo cars are not always in boost ,especially around town..going into boost much in town will mean almost certain trip to jail.
Built 408 is plenty fast even on off boost with lowered compression.On boost its a tiger.Can only imagine a boosted 427 or bigger engine.
I would like to see more dyno graphs so can look at entire powerband with these various cams .Same engine with different cam variations would be great. I am curious what effect higher or lower lsa has and the effects of the different splits and amounts of lift.
You are also going to hear from various people that the cam is best matched for specific turbo setup. Some setups would require a different type of cam.
Maybe put in an edlebrock quick change setup then you can try some of these cams out and dyno and give us some more data to go with.
I can tell you this..your 408 even with stock cam and the upgraded turbos will put out way more power than you can hook up on the street. It is guaranteed to scare the hell out of you and anyone you give a ride too. And hope your car has basic traction control or seriously consider adding an aftermarket one. I am staring to think I should maybe put in really low springs in mine and have the boost ramp up just to keep the thing on the road.And thats with just a built 408 and the standard kit. I wish tire technology would catch up with how easy it now is to make big power form a vehicle. I can't decide what to run for tires.
Et street radials or m and h street radials or bfg drag radails hook good especially when heated up but are absolutely scary in any rain, have very short life ,are pretty horrible for any higher speed handling.
NIttos don't seem to do much unheated , my 96z can spin off nittos with only 325 engine hp and 3.42 and 2800 stall on colder days. My 99 TT well not a hope for the nittos. New toyo street radials are safer under 32F than the nittos which are not even recommended anymore to be used under 32F ,fact they warn of tire cracking and failure.
But the toyo street radials say you can't repair them have to junk them if you get a puncture..that don't sound good to me. NIttos are better in rain and have a longer lifespan than the other drag tires.They are noisy and pick up every little rock,screw,nail.
Normal street tires also don't work so great in cars with much more than 500rwhp.Even the best ones like Michelin ps2.
Sorry to take your thread off the subject at hand..but the point is you are pretty much just going to have to throw in a cam and see how it works for you. And power is not going to be much of a worry in your build. Traction willl be much more of a worry and keeping the shiny side up.
I have owned some fast cars in my 50 years on this planet. But my 99 ranks up there as one of the scariest I have owned so far. The way the built 408 and even the standard snails move out that 4000 or so pound car just has to be experienced to be believed.And even at low boost the turbos hit like a 200 shot of nitrous. They come in very fast and pretty darn low on the powerband.
Friends ask me to describe what my 408 TT feels like and I have one word for it.."VISCIOUS!" and thats at stock 7.5 psi with maybe 650rwhp. Remember thats like 750 engine hp.With stupid torque to match.
Not very many guys have finished up the upgraded APS kit or even modified kit with say the bigger LG center carts.
So you can be a pioneer here and try out some different cams and give us some dyno numbers. As said that edlebrock quick change thing looks like a good thing, I almost got one for my car but now happy enough with current combo.
Camshaft specifications: 215/231 duration @ .050 .631/.644 with 1.7 ratio rocker arms 118.0 CL. This camshaft will require dual valve spring kit 26921-KIT. Camshafts ground by Competition Cams for Lingenfelter.
I felt it was too high for duration and would put the car too close to valve float with .650 springs and require to freqent valve spring changes.But it looked like it would idle pretty nice and not have any noticeable lope.
Comp builds lingenfelter cams. And lingenfelter knows a thing or two about turbo cars but think their primary goal in their turbo cams are to keep stock like streetabilty. So they may be giving up in some areas over some of the other cams . I have seen great numbers with just about every variation of cam. Reverse split, normal split, no split, fairly low stock type lift, medium lifts and high lifts and low and high lsa.
I think the more imporant choices are lsa .do you want a noticeable lope..I didn't .
Lift how much do you think you can handle with your springs and how often do you want to change them. Duration again how agressive do you want to go.Bigger engines can handle more duration.
I don't think you are going to change potential max horsepower with a cam. The turbos will max out I think no matter what cam just going to take more boost if the cam don't flow as much air thru the engine as a different one. You should be able to get to 1300 engine hp with your upgraded kit and engine size and cylinder heads are also not going to change max potential of the turbos just change the amount of boost needed to hit max power. Powerband changes from engine size, head selection and cam selection will of course happen. And off boost more differences will emerge. Turbo cars are not always in boost ,especially around town..going into boost much in town will mean almost certain trip to jail.
Built 408 is plenty fast even on off boost with lowered compression.On boost its a tiger.Can only imagine a boosted 427 or bigger engine.
I would like to see more dyno graphs so can look at entire powerband with these various cams .Same engine with different cam variations would be great. I am curious what effect higher or lower lsa has and the effects of the different splits and amounts of lift.
You are also going to hear from various people that the cam is best matched for specific turbo setup. Some setups would require a different type of cam.
Maybe put in an edlebrock quick change setup then you can try some of these cams out and dyno and give us some more data to go with.
I can tell you this..your 408 even with stock cam and the upgraded turbos will put out way more power than you can hook up on the street. It is guaranteed to scare the hell out of you and anyone you give a ride too. And hope your car has basic traction control or seriously consider adding an aftermarket one. I am staring to think I should maybe put in really low springs in mine and have the boost ramp up just to keep the thing on the road.And thats with just a built 408 and the standard kit. I wish tire technology would catch up with how easy it now is to make big power form a vehicle. I can't decide what to run for tires.
Et street radials or m and h street radials or bfg drag radails hook good especially when heated up but are absolutely scary in any rain, have very short life ,are pretty horrible for any higher speed handling.
NIttos don't seem to do much unheated , my 96z can spin off nittos with only 325 engine hp and 3.42 and 2800 stall on colder days. My 99 TT well not a hope for the nittos. New toyo street radials are safer under 32F than the nittos which are not even recommended anymore to be used under 32F ,fact they warn of tire cracking and failure.
But the toyo street radials say you can't repair them have to junk them if you get a puncture..that don't sound good to me. NIttos are better in rain and have a longer lifespan than the other drag tires.They are noisy and pick up every little rock,screw,nail.
Normal street tires also don't work so great in cars with much more than 500rwhp.Even the best ones like Michelin ps2.
Sorry to take your thread off the subject at hand..but the point is you are pretty much just going to have to throw in a cam and see how it works for you. And power is not going to be much of a worry in your build. Traction willl be much more of a worry and keeping the shiny side up.
I have owned some fast cars in my 50 years on this planet. But my 99 ranks up there as one of the scariest I have owned so far. The way the built 408 and even the standard snails move out that 4000 or so pound car just has to be experienced to be believed.And even at low boost the turbos hit like a 200 shot of nitrous. They come in very fast and pretty darn low on the powerband.
Friends ask me to describe what my 408 TT feels like and I have one word for it.."VISCIOUS!" and thats at stock 7.5 psi with maybe 650rwhp. Remember thats like 750 engine hp.With stupid torque to match.
Not very many guys have finished up the upgraded APS kit or even modified kit with say the bigger LG center carts.
So you can be a pioneer here and try out some different cams and give us some dyno numbers. As said that edlebrock quick change thing looks like a good thing, I almost got one for my car but now happy enough with current combo.
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04-10-2009, 09:57 AM
#9
Here is video of epp fi cam. it has reasonable lift with 1.7 rockers and 115lsa and decent duration and has lope. Looks like a nice possible to me. If I changed out mine and went different cam would get something similar to that one with just a bit more lsa so don't have the lope..Would then use 1.7 rockers so dont' have too high a lift.
