creepingdeath94

iTrader: (1)

I installed the LPP Ebay copy headers and they hit on my K-member, which I took care of already, but one primary also hits on the rag joint where the metal tabs are bent up away from the joint slightly as you turn the wheel. Has anyone else had this issue? Will the rag joint eliminator resolve this or will the eliminator hit in the same spot all the way around instead? Can I cut off the little protruding tabs on the original joint until I replace it?

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Use a LS1 Steering Linkage..

creepingdeath94

iTrader: (1)

Is that a "bolt-in" deal? Meaning will it just plug right into place of the old one without modification? Will it clear my primary tube? Because I am also having a little rub on the knuckle itself where it plugs into the steering column. Right on the u-joint part that sticks out a little further.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

It bolts directly up and it's a little smaller in diameter, it clears very well.

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

i believe the steering wheel will be off and you will have to play with the alignment. also, check your motor mounts! they like to sag, fun to replace!

creepingdeath94

iTrader: (1)

I plan on doing the tubular k-member replacement down the road at some point. I would just like to get by for now. I am basically going to have to ping in the primary a little bit by the looks of it. I jacked on the motor to see what kind of play was there and the mounts are not sagging that bad if at all. I get very little movement when I lift on the motor...as I tried to get the headers in in the first place for clearance to no avail.

If the knuckle is a little smaller around though it may clear the primary where it sits hopefully. I will find out soon. I would like to be able to drive the car again sometime this month :-p

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Old motor mounts maybe?

It bolt's right up with the LS1 rack, otherwise you have to knock off one of the knuckles and rotate it 90 degrees and weld it back on for it to work on a LT1 rack.

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

i would actually look at the motor mounts. they tend to look split and dry-rotted on the bottom, jacking the motor might not make it noticeable. the ls1 steering shaft is a good way to go. you could also put in a manual steering rack, moves the linkage 1 inch away from the motor. i believe you need to use a tubular k-member with it though. good luck with it though

creepingdeath94

iTrader: (1)

Thanks everyone...I think I will need some luck. I guess in the case of China replicas, it depends on what mood Long Duk Dong is in when welding as to how far off all the angles are going to be...I mean 1/2 degree is nothing at the primary, but 2 feet down the pipe when the angle is now off like 5 degrees, it makes a difference. Anyway, I will probably do the rag joint eliminator and tubular K-member next...in the meantime I either can't drive the car or I have to flatten the primary a little bit. Which honestly shouldn't make too much of a difference as it is where the primary is already stepped up and the pipes are overkill for the flow of the engine anyway, plus it is in a flat/straight area of the pipe there. And in my case where 400 hp is my ceiling, the headers will more than flow enough to cover that.