Re-Building 1998 LS1 need good advice. 400-450HP
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Re-Building 1998 LS1 need good advice. 400-450HP
Hello, new to the forum.
I recently purchased a 1998 LS1 out of a z28 with a spun bearing.
I will be rebuilding the engine myself, and have an HP goal of 400-450
Looking for educated suggestions on what route to go here.
It would be nice to do an all stock re-build, and upgrading the cam to something that can add more power. Can I do a head job to the stock heads to achieve 400-450? or should I just look at getting new heads all togeather?
Not wanting to put more than 2000.00 into the motor, so I am torn for what decision to make. If this gets to expensive, I may just do a complete stock rebuild and settle for whatever HP it puts out. Thanks a ton in advance!
I recently purchased a 1998 LS1 out of a z28 with a spun bearing.
I will be rebuilding the engine myself, and have an HP goal of 400-450
Looking for educated suggestions on what route to go here.
It would be nice to do an all stock re-build, and upgrading the cam to something that can add more power. Can I do a head job to the stock heads to achieve 400-450? or should I just look at getting new heads all togeather?
Not wanting to put more than 2000.00 into the motor, so I am torn for what decision to make. If this gets to expensive, I may just do a complete stock rebuild and settle for whatever HP it puts out. Thanks a ton in advance!
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thanks man.
Can I port my stock TB? or is this a different one other than stock ls1? If so, what diameter should I port the TB to?
Under drive pully, sounds easy enough..
What exactly does "LT's" mean?? Long Tube headers?
#6
yeah you can port the stock tb. you can port it quite a bit, just be careful not to go too far. get rid of the big hump at the bottom, smooth out the lip on the outer edge, and halfshaft the blade. also the bump stop mod.
and yeah lt's means longtubes
and yeah lt's means longtubes
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Or increasing the tapered diameter too much will decrease performance or power?
roughly how many thousandths will I be removing along the whole wall?
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you may want to consider having one of the sponsors to the right -----> build you an engine instead..these engines are not quite as easy to rebuild as your standard chevy small block, and you can get one fully built with a warranty for not too much more than what you are looking at spending already.
#14
what i actually was referring too when i said don't go too far was porting the bottom so far you actually hit the coolant reservoir. once the hump is gone and it's a nice straight path in you're set, no need to go crazy. but those are also good points.
also to the OP, did you mean rwhp or flywheel hp when you stated your goals? because a full bolt-on engine will make roughly 400 to the flywheel on stock internals
also to the OP, did you mean rwhp or flywheel hp when you stated your goals? because a full bolt-on engine will make roughly 400 to the flywheel on stock internals
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what i actually was referring too when i said don't go too far was porting the bottom so far you actually hit the coolant reservoir. once the hump is gone and it's a nice straight path in you're set, no need to go crazy. but those are also good points.
also to the OP, did you mean rwhp or flywheel hp when you stated your goals? because a full bolt-on engine will make roughly 400 to the flywheel on stock internals
also to the OP, did you mean rwhp or flywheel hp when you stated your goals? because a full bolt-on engine will make roughly 400 to the flywheel on stock internals
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Thanks guys, I know enough to know to stay away from the butterfly valve to surface area, because it is tight clearance, and designed to be exactly where it is. I was mainly asking how much material to remove from the area before that. basically, What wall thickness is desireable from the butterfly valve to the end of the TB, before i've removed too much.
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My 2 cents, if you are on a strict $2000 budget, leave it alone. I just got all my rebuild stuff in from Texas Speed and it was 2900 with tax. But I also got the stage 2.5 5.3 heads. That's not to mention injectors, stall, throttle body, lid, headers, tune and so on.
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keep the stock heads and do an ms3, ms4, trex, g5x3 cam only set up if your on a tight budget any of these cams can get you 400+whp. then if there is still money to do heads you can see around the 450whp mark