Still sucking oil w/ LS6 valley cover and catch can...
#1
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Still sucking oil w/ LS6 valley cover and catch can...
2000 miles after head install and all intake ports and piston tops were coated with oil - AGAIN!! I have the LS6 valley cover connected to a catch can then to the PCV to intake. Something has to stop this.
Can we remove the PCV altogether and just let the block vent to the atmosphere or would it do more damage than good due to a lack of vacuum/scavenging of crankcase?
Search feature still isnt working properly to find past info onthis. Thanks.
Can we remove the PCV altogether and just let the block vent to the atmosphere or would it do more damage than good due to a lack of vacuum/scavenging of crankcase?
Search feature still isnt working properly to find past info onthis. Thanks.
#3
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I did the same upgrade and I still got oil into the intake and intake ports of the heads. I finally said f*ck it, removed the PCV system, and let the valve covers vent/breath to the outside air via a small breather filter attached to the valve cover. Finally no more d@mn oil in the intake
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Tony - The can is 3 inches in diameter and 5 inches long. The entry is on the side and the outlet is on top. The outlet tube is shrouded internally so the suspended oil SHOULD go to the bottom. I'm considering opening it back up and using some sort of internal filtration. And yes the intake is coated with oil. I really thought the LS6 valley cover would fix the problem. The motor will be going back together soon with coated pistons and coated heads so I want to fix this problem before then.
ls290 - Removing the PCV is what I am leaning towards, I just dont want to do any damage by not having enough crankcase ventilation.
ls290 - Removing the PCV is what I am leaning towards, I just dont want to do any damage by not having enough crankcase ventilation.
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ive been running around for a week with just a filter on the end of my crancase vent and the port on the throttle body plugged, im going to set up a vacuum port in the exhaust after the o2 sensors, then use a catch can to pull some real vacuum in my crancase, ive done similiar things on current sportbikes with excellent results
this started for me because my car was pinging bad when it was hot in trafic with the air running when i would put it in 3rd gear early, and also in the upper rpm's when getting into it, i plugged the port and put the filter on the vent and it stopped pinging,
my thoughts are that an old big block 454 vented the crancase through breathers in the valve covers im sure while maybee not optimal i cant believe it would do damage to vent our crancase to air, but i think the vacuum from the exhaust would be a hot set up with out the hassle of adding a vacuum pump,
if i could put a bolt on kit together that would achieve this, do you think people would be interested in it
this started for me because my car was pinging bad when it was hot in trafic with the air running when i would put it in 3rd gear early, and also in the upper rpm's when getting into it, i plugged the port and put the filter on the vent and it stopped pinging,
my thoughts are that an old big block 454 vented the crancase through breathers in the valve covers im sure while maybee not optimal i cant believe it would do damage to vent our crancase to air, but i think the vacuum from the exhaust would be a hot set up with out the hassle of adding a vacuum pump,
if i could put a bolt on kit together that would achieve this, do you think people would be interested in it
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#9
I think I went through more setups than anyone with the PCV system. In the very end a few months ago I had a drip leg, catch can made out of a QUART paint can with foam absorber in it, 2 fuel filters and 10 feet of hose to pipe it all around. I had the paint can in the area behind the passenger side fog light.
It would work great for a few hundred miles, then I would see little drops of oil pushing their way up through the entire system, headed towards my intake again.
Finally I ripped the flipping thing off, no more PVC for me. The only thing you can't really do is expect to go 6,000 miles like some do on synthetic oil if you don't have a PCV system. With no way for all the gasses and moisture to get out, the oil gets contaminated a good bit quicker, my oil comes out pretty dark looking after only 3,000 miles now.
Edit: If you remove the PCV and eliminate the vacuum on the block, you might find spots where oil can leak out of your engine you never knew you had! I developed a slight oil leak from the front of the oil pan, just enough to slowly cover the bottom of the engine. It is most likely due to a bad seal from when I did my heads/cam swap, but it goes away if I hook the PCV back up.
Just another think to watch out for if you rip it off.
It would work great for a few hundred miles, then I would see little drops of oil pushing their way up through the entire system, headed towards my intake again.
Finally I ripped the flipping thing off, no more PVC for me. The only thing you can't really do is expect to go 6,000 miles like some do on synthetic oil if you don't have a PCV system. With no way for all the gasses and moisture to get out, the oil gets contaminated a good bit quicker, my oil comes out pretty dark looking after only 3,000 miles now.
Edit: If you remove the PCV and eliminate the vacuum on the block, you might find spots where oil can leak out of your engine you never knew you had! I developed a slight oil leak from the front of the oil pan, just enough to slowly cover the bottom of the engine. It is most likely due to a bad seal from when I did my heads/cam swap, but it goes away if I hook the PCV back up.
Just another think to watch out for if you rip it off.
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Back in the old Carburator days, everyone vented to atmosphere. Nothing bad ever happened to my motor. I found that gunk would only build up on very short trips when the motor did not fully warm up.
#12
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Originally Posted by Cricket99SS
Edit: If you remove the PCV and eliminate the vacuum on the block, you might find spots where oil can leak out of your engine you never knew you had!
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Originally Posted by Chris99WS6PWTMET
Thats what I'm hoping some of these tech gurus can help us with.
#14
Originally Posted by ls1290
I just can not see how venting to the open air would be more restrictive and/or less flowing than going through a couple of feet of 3/8" tube and pushing open a one way valve.
A friend of mine is installing a header draft tube, which is welded into the collector. It produces the same vacuum effect, and sucks all the gasses and moisture out of the block, but instead of going right back into the intake to be burned, it goes into the collector and is burned in the exhaust, which is a much better way of getting rid of it.
Last edited by Cricket99SS; 10-29-2003 at 09:14 AM.
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just curious, did you grind the block to install the LS6 PVC valley cover up? Or did you cut out the baffles on the valley cover to make it fit?
Its weird how some people have great results and others don't. I am starting to wonder if it could be something with the install.
Its weird how some people have great results and others don't. I am starting to wonder if it could be something with the install.
#18
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Ground the block. Feeds into a catch can, mounted lower than the valley cover. I cant see it being an install problem. 10 bolts and some hoses is pretty simple. Hell, I've been making Navy jets fly for over 17 years now. LOL!
#19
Have you tried installing a fuel filter inline between the pcv and intake? There is a setup like this on installuniversity.com. I just found oil in my intake when i added my hotcam. I ordered the ls6 valley cover and plan on adding the catch can and filters. I always assumed it was the HPP3 timing that caused the knock retard but I'm hoping this fixes it.
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I ripped off my pcv and run breathers on each cover. I get smoke or steam out of them every now and then but no more oil in the intake. I had a catchcan but I think the oil was coming in from the tube that went from the valve cover to the tb. It's been capped off also.