skippytheloon

iTrader: (14)

I've been searching for hints, but would like some help.
94 4l60e/LT1 car swapped to LS1/T56.

Using Speartech harness, everything plugged in but A/C and rear O2's
all grounds are connected and cleaned up
cables ran to alternator/starter/batt correctly I believe
Vats bypassed with 4.75 kohm resistor
inside car: reverse lights spliced in, hatch release wires tied together, clutch pedal wires tied in (tried pedal switch and tied together)

Here's the deal:
Brake lights stay on permanately once you connect the battery=weird
radio and door chime both work, but when you turn the key they both go silent and you hear a click in the stearing column and a click from the driver side fuse box...thats it.
If you jumper the starter it will turn the crank, does not fire



Please let me know if you have any suggestions, any at all. I got the harness done hoping there wouldn't be any problems with the wiring...I suck at this part.

Speartech

iTrader: (14)

There's some differences when you change from one trans to another. The starter safety switch for the auto trans used to be at the shifter. Those wires need to go to the clutch switch, or at least jumper them together for testing so that the starter will work.

The brakes lights being on all of the time just sounds like a mis-adjusted switch at the pedal.

Are you sure 4.75K is correct for the vats? Depending on what's been changed, the original vats should still work ok without any resistor.

skippytheloon

iTrader: (14)

I re-adjusted the brake pedal, brake lights are off now. Wohoo, small victory!

The 12guage clutch switch wires are connected together @ shifter area.

I keep trying to start with or without vats bypassed Well, bypassing the orange key circuit wires coming off of the steering column...key read 4.75k ohms exactly with fluke meter

the grounds are connected at back of engine, flat copper wire ground on driver side is ran from engine to body.
From battery: I have positives going to starter and to accesory power box. Negatives going to alternator, body ground and engine block ground.

What should I look at now? Shouldn't the fuel pump prime up or something at least when I turn the key?

Speartech

iTrader: (14)

Yes, key on should bring the fuel pump on for 2 seconds and the check engine light in the dash should be on.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

There's a big problem there..
That should be positive bro.

Try fixing the Alternator and going from there.

As far as the Door Chime and Radio, sounds like there is a constant power wire in the Interior that is crossed somewhere..does it blow any Fuses?

I had a problem with the VATS on mine, even after it was tuned out. I bypassed it and completely removed all the wiring for it and used the Relay for my N/S Switch on the Clutch.

skippytheloon

iTrader: (14)

lol, alternator is ran off a black cable coming off the positive side. Its hooked up right, just wrote it down wrong cause its not a red cable. My bad on that one.

all fuses are good. pulled and checked with a meter for continuity.

I don't have power to the purple wire to the starter or to the ignition fuse or injector fuses in the underhood fuse block when the key is turned to start. I do have 12v to stuff like abs and fog lights in that fuse box though.

So, something is wrong between the key and the fuse box right? What is in that part of the circuit that would stop the signal from going through? I still have a gut feeling its something to do with the vats or something similar.

skippytheloon

iTrader: (14)

The key reads 4.7k ohms, when I test the two orange wires that go to VATS when the key is in, resistance across the 2 wires reads 4.7k ohms...that means that the lock cylinder/ VATS is good. But that is the only thing I know of that would stop the signal from going to the ignition fuse and therefore to the starter....I'm lost

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I had to bypass the VATS Relay with mine to get it to work right..just something I had to do. Even with the VATS tuned out it was not wanting to start. I bypassed the Relay and it fired right up.

Speartech

iTrader: (14)

VATS will work fine on these swaps if the harness is set up properly.

Let's start with the basics and make sure the 10-way black plug by the PCM is correct. That's where most of the ignition voltage comes from. Make sure that A and K have a pink wire in them and that they are hot with the key on.

Still need an answer on the check engine light and FP relay prime.

skippytheloon

iTrader: (14)

no, the fuel pump does not prime, no dash lights, no guages move. A and K pink wires do not get voltage

Speartech

iTrader: (14)

From what you're describing, it sounds more like a main cable left off at the junction block or a blown fusible link. You might look there and see if all of the reds have 12 volts on them. One of those is what powers the ignition switch. You have to check them AFTER the fusible link in case one of those is bad.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Yea, forgot about them. Check the ones on the IGN Switch Connector and see if they are 12v aswell.

skippytheloon

iTrader: (14)

It was the ignition switch up in the steering column...Joseph from TSP came over and figured it out in under 5 min. Somehow it got jostled when I pulled the column to put in 6spd pedals and then broke when I turned the key or something.

Got it fixed and everything works like it should...thanks again to speartech for making such an awesome/easy to use product and the guys at TSP for being the bomb.