LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

ok..bore questions

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Old 04-18-2009, 04:20 AM
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Default ok..bore questions

i have my motor out and it is going to the machine shop sometime next week...so im asking what size is best for a street/strip car, im asking so i can find the best pistons ect...

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Old 04-18-2009, 06:35 AM
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most will just go .030"
Old 04-18-2009, 08:13 AM
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i was going to go .030 but i decided to stick to the stock bore. my bores are in real good shape so im just going to get my honed out for the pistons. i went with speed pro power forged pistons part # TRW-L2256F. i hope there good lol i dont plan on running nitrous but i like the fact that i can with a good forged piston
Old 04-18-2009, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by SoxXpupPeT
i was going to go .030 but i decided to stick to the stock bore. my bores are in real good shape so im just going to get my honed out for the pistons. i went with speed pro power forged pistons part # TRW-L2256F. i hope there good lol i dont plan on running nitrous but i like the fact that i can with a good forged piston
I wouldn't trust the stock bore with new pistons and rings without consulting a machine-shop. They might look fine, but then again most LT1 cylinder walls retain their cross-hatch for hundreds of thousands of miles and always look good. Cylinder walls wear more at the bottom, and over time the cylinder bore can become egg-shaped, making it very difficult for new pistons/rings to seal correctly.

While you may be able to get away with just passing a hone through the cylinders, it's best that you let a competent machine shop make the boring decision for you.
Old 04-18-2009, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
I wouldn't trust the stock bore with new pistons and rings without consulting a machine-shop. They might look fine, but then again most LT1 cylinder walls retain their cross-hatch for hundreds of thousands of miles and always look good. Cylinder walls wear more at the bottom, and over time the cylinder bore can become egg-shaped, making it very difficult for new pistons/rings to seal correctly.

While you may be able to get away with just passing a hone through the cylinders, it's best that you let a competent machine shop make the boring decision for you.
thats what i did. my machinist said that there fine and that i only had to go .030 over if i really wanted to. which right now i didnt.
Old 04-18-2009, 12:06 PM
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ok, so what are some great 30 over pistons? im not rich but want to go forged ya know
Old 04-18-2009, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by FF88
ok, so what are some great 30 over pistons? im not rich but want to go forged ya know
JE/SRP are good forged pistons. What are your plans for the motor that absolutely require forged slugs?

If you stay hypereutectic, Mahle makes a very nice budget piston.
Old 04-18-2009, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
JE/SRP are good forged pistons. What are your plans for the motor that absolutely require forged slugs?

If you stay hypereutectic, Mahle makes a very nice budget piston.
well i was debating spray but i dont thin i want another nitrous car honestly..and budget is good, im a firefighter dont really have alot of money lol
Old 04-18-2009, 12:24 PM
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the more i think about it i should give you more details, i am looking for something i can use on stock/ported heads, and a mild cam little bit bigger than a hot cam.
Old 04-18-2009, 12:29 PM
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If the bores are good why are you replacing the pistons?? I beleive the stockers are Mahle hypereutectics.

Many folks go with the .030 overbore to unshroud the valves a little more which helps the engine breathe a little better.

Mahle makes a great forged piston too check out the Mahle power packs.

If you go to a 6" rod and you make the correct piston rod choices you can lighten up your rotating assembly freeing up horsepower. Downside is your machinist will have to balance your assembly .


Mike
Old 04-18-2009, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
If the bores are good why are you replacing the pistons?? I beleive the stockers are Mahle hypereutectics.

Many folks go with the .030 overbore to unshroud the valves a little more which helps the engine breathe a little better.

Mahle makes a great forged piston too check out the Mahle power packs.

If you go to a 6" rod and you make the correct piston rod choices you can lighten up your rotating assembly freeing up horsepower. Downside is your machinist will have to balance your assembly .


Mike

thank you mike, the reason im going .030 over is because the block has 190,xxx miles i just want to know that everything is good to go so to speak, and i am looking for some good street power..not a good reason but hey
Old 04-18-2009, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
I wouldn't trust the stock bore with new pistons and rings without consulting a machine-shop. They might look fine, but then again most LT1 cylinder walls retain their cross-hatch for hundreds of thousands of miles and always look good. Cylinder walls wear more at the bottom, and over time the cylinder bore can become egg-shaped, making it very difficult for new pistons/rings to seal correctly.

While you may be able to get away with just passing a hone through the cylinders, it's best that you let a competent machine shop make the boring decision for you.
I agree and would rather have the cylinder punched. However, aren't there slightly bigger rings specifically for this situation? For those who've got higher miles, but the cylinders are in great shape, so the rings are just a hair larger to account for wear.
Old 04-18-2009, 07:18 PM
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i was going to go with 60 over but the machine shop said that i was crazy so i went with 30 over with manley forged pistons
Old 04-18-2009, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by A20SVT00
i was going to go with 60 over but the machine shop said that i was crazy so i went with 30 over with manley forged pistons
Well it's not crazy, but on the LT1s it's advised against for a DD (even if many have/do run them with no issues). .040 over is fine and I've always wondered why they skipped .050 and went to .060
Old 04-18-2009, 08:28 PM
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formula350, thank you for the advice , im taking it, i just want to know my walls are in good condition ya know, this is the only time i am going to actually have the motor apart for awhile (i hope). i figure might as well do it all and do it right



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