spun rod bearing
04-22-2009, 01:37 PM
#1
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spun rod bearing so took the motor apart spun every rod bearing but 2. does this mean ill need a new crank?????? the pistons rings look good, everything else seems fine. im thinking i need rebuild gasket kit, rod bearings and main bearings anything else that i would need? im not sure on the crank tho. heres some pics took the motor out
04-22-2009, 01:44 PM
#3
At the very minimum you will need to have the crank turned/polished, new oversized bearings installed, and have the new rotating assembly balanced. Only your machinist can tell for sure though. If it were me I'd additionally replace the pistons/rings, have the block bored .030", recondition the stock rods, and build a nice 355. There will be no easier time to do it.
04-22-2009, 02:01 PM
#4
The way I am reading this you spun 6 rod bearings. That's 6 new rods right off the bat you need. Depending on how bad the crank is, it may be able to be turned.
Have a machine shop check the crank, we can't tell you much not being able to see how bad it is in person. You should also have the cylinder bores checked as well since it will cost little to nothing just to be sure.
The cheap way out would probably be to buy a used stock rotating assembly in good condition, they aren't too hard to find. If the cylinder bores are good, find a rotating assembly and get the new crank polished, block honed, and put it together with new rings, bearings, freeze plugs, a valve job, and maybe some LT4 springs.
That is assuming you are on a budget and want a stock type rebuild.
Have a machine shop check the crank, we can't tell you much not being able to see how bad it is in person. You should also have the cylinder bores checked as well since it will cost little to nothing just to be sure.
The cheap way out would probably be to buy a used stock rotating assembly in good condition, they aren't too hard to find. If the cylinder bores are good, find a rotating assembly and get the new crank polished, block honed, and put it together with new rings, bearings, freeze plugs, a valve job, and maybe some LT4 springs.
That is assuming you are on a budget and want a stock type rebuild.
04-22-2009, 02:43 PM
#5
OK I missread things, read too fast and saw it as spun NUMBER 2
I would either buy a junkyard engine or start a full build at this point.
In the past I helped someone with a single spun bearing, crank was damaged so we found good used parts and replaced just what was wounded. Had the replacement crank polished for $40. No balancing needed in that case.
I would either buy a junkyard engine or start a full build at this point.
In the past I helped someone with a single spun bearing, crank was damaged so we found good used parts and replaced just what was wounded. Had the replacement crank polished for $40. No balancing needed in that case.
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04-23-2009, 08:32 AM
#9
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well i got a friend who will sell me his lt1 from a formula with 100k miles on it, he would sell it for 800.00. or should i just fix mine. my pistons rings are fine and the walls also the rods look good to. the only thing i need is rebuild gasket kit for 175.00 and new main bearings and rod bearings and a crank of course. plan b if it dont work out part the motor.
04-23-2009, 03:33 PM
#10
well i got a friend who will sell me his lt1 from a formula with 100k miles on it, he would sell it for 800.00. or should i just fix mine. my pistons rings are fine and the walls also the rods look good to. the only thing i need is rebuild gasket kit for 175.00 and new main bearings and rod bearings and a crank of course. plan b if it dont work out part the motor.
You should perform a compression and leak down test on your friend's block, if all checks out, buy it and swap it in. Try to haggle on the price.
04-23-2009, 03:52 PM
#11
I would not pay $800 for a used LT1 unless it was say complete with accessories, wiring , computer and was desirable head casting numbers.
If the engine knocked the rod is pretty well guaranteed egg shapped a little, fresh bearing in it are not going to fix anything. If the bearing spun in the bore, again they need to be rebuilt IF salvagable atall.
It is possible for a block to need nothing but cleaning provided no mains spun. If a main spun, sometimes blocks are salvagable but sometimes they are not worth the effort.
If the engine knocked the rod is pretty well guaranteed egg shapped a little, fresh bearing in it are not going to fix anything. If the bearing spun in the bore, again they need to be rebuilt IF salvagable atall.
It is possible for a block to need nothing but cleaning provided no mains spun. If a main spun, sometimes blocks are salvagable but sometimes they are not worth the effort.
05-06-2009, 08:39 AM
#12
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well got the block looked at it looks good, the crank will cost more to fix then buy so im just going to go buy one and the piston rods are shaped like an egg so they will need to be fix and balanced.
theres a place by my house that only work with cranks, and they will sell me the whole rotating assembly for 160 + my crank. comes with piston rods and bearings. already balanced.
theres a place by my house that only work with cranks, and they will sell me the whole rotating assembly for 160 + my crank. comes with piston rods and bearings. already balanced.
Last edited by ALEXZ28; 05-06-2009 at 08:48 AM.
02-03-2022, 11:55 PM
#13
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Name well got the block looked at it looks good, the crank will cost more to fix then buy so im just going to go buy one and the piston rods are shaped like an egg so they will need to be fix and balanced.
theres a place by my house that only work with cranks, and they will sell me the whole rotating assembly for 160 + my crank. comes with piston rods and bearings. already balanced.
theres a place by my house that only work with cranks, and they will sell me the whole rotating assembly for 160 + my crank. comes with piston rods and bearings. already balanced.
