need yor opinions
04-22-2009, 05:25 PM
#1
need yor opinions i about to buy a 30 over lt1 block that doesn't have main caps. watch cap should i buy since i will be building me a all forged stroker that will possible have a blower on it is eagle a good buy or what plz help thanks
04-22-2009, 05:33 PM
#2
Billet splayed 4-bolt main caps is what you want.
If you are going through all of the work to build a forged, blown stroker...why not just get a good block and have all of the machine work done at once (bore, hone, line hone, square deck, clearancing for stroke, spayed 4-bolt mains, forged internals, balancing, etc.)?
04-22-2009, 06:14 PM
#3
because im getting it for a 100 and it just came out of the machine shop but would be going back in
just found out its a 2 bolt so probably now blower just a nice play toy motor for the street
just found out its a 2 bolt so probably now blower just a nice play toy motor for the street
Last edited by Big bird55; 04-22-2009 at 10:34 PM.
04-24-2009, 11:11 AM
#5
Expect to pay about $2,500-3,000 for a nice rotating assembly.
Callies Compstar Crankshaft
3.480 or 3.750 Stroke
Callies Compstar Connecting Rods
4340 Forged
H-Beam
ARP-2000 cap screws
5.700" or 6.000"
JE Pistons (4.030")
pins, locks, rings, main & rod bearings
fully balanced
As I mentioned earlier, you will want to have a good block
-bored and honed w/ torque plates to a 4.030" bore
-align honed
-splayed 4-bolt billet main caps
-clearance for a 3.750" stroke crank
Top it off with some ported TFS or AFR heads.
Put in a large solid roller valve train.
Ported single plane intake
4-hole TB
1 7/8" LT headers
Callies Compstar Crankshaft
3.480 or 3.750 Stroke
Callies Compstar Connecting Rods
4340 Forged
H-Beam
ARP-2000 cap screws
5.700" or 6.000"
JE Pistons (4.030")
pins, locks, rings, main & rod bearings
fully balanced
As I mentioned earlier, you will want to have a good block
-bored and honed w/ torque plates to a 4.030" bore
-align honed
-splayed 4-bolt billet main caps
-clearance for a 3.750" stroke crank
Top it off with some ported TFS or AFR heads.
Put in a large solid roller valve train.
Ported single plane intake
4-hole TB
1 7/8" LT headers
Last edited by ss.slp.ls1; 04-24-2009 at 11:16 AM.
04-24-2009, 11:21 AM
#6
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Since the block doesn't have main caps, it has to go back to the machine shop anyway. You can't just bolt on a set of main caps without line honeing the main bores.
Since you need to buy caps and have the line hone anyway, might as well choose four bolt main caps. The block will come out stronger for the effort. Oliver and others sell them. You can have the block clearanced for the stroker crank at the same time.
There's an on-going debate on whether it's best to go with steel or cast iron caps. Some say the steel caps are stronger, which they are, but others say the iron caps expand at the same rate as the block, so they maintain better bore dimensions.
When I built a 400 block, I had Oliver four bolt caps installed.
As far as assemblies, CNC-Motorsports has the prices listed.
Just my thoughts,
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
Since you need to buy caps and have the line hone anyway, might as well choose four bolt main caps. The block will come out stronger for the effort. Oliver and others sell them. You can have the block clearanced for the stroker crank at the same time.
There's an on-going debate on whether it's best to go with steel or cast iron caps. Some say the steel caps are stronger, which they are, but others say the iron caps expand at the same rate as the block, so they maintain better bore dimensions.
When I built a 400 block, I had Oliver four bolt caps installed.
As far as assemblies, CNC-Motorsports has the prices listed.
Just my thoughts,
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
