General Maintenance & Repairs - HATCH PROP RODS anybody have the same problem??

i have a 1995 trans am with a wing and the prop rods mounts on the hatch have started squeaking. i thought it was just the left side but so i took it off then i noticed the other side moving in and out of the mount spot. is it suppose to move and has anyone had this problem?? what did you do to fix it? thanks any help very appricated!!

I have a friend who has squeaky hatch struts in his Blazer. Mine don't do this yet. It happens in some cars.

swap the hatch supports out or trying greasing the piston.

i paid $30 for a pair of hatch supports from advance auto

i have a 1995 trans am with a wing and the prop rods mounts on the hatch have started squeaking. i thought it was just the left side but so i took it off then i noticed the other side moving in and out of the mount spot. is it suppose to move and has anyone had this problem?? what did you do to fix it? thanks any help very appricated!!

13 years, you're ready for new ones. But maybe they can be greased.

the pistons are fine but the mount on the hatch where the rod is attached. that's what's moving up and down. is it suppose to be solid? it's like the fiberglass has broke at that spot or something. i had a couple of apline 12" in there but not sure if that enough to push the hatch and break the mounts?? werid? i will get some pics tomorrow and post them.

so here are the pics and all i am doing and pushing the hatch all the way up and then letting it back down. basically tension and no tension. wtf? is it suppose to do that?

i dont get what your trying to prove....

are you saying that the shoulder socket is loose? if so, it looks like you can remove the hatch support, fit a deep socket over it and tighten the mount

the mount is moving up and down in the hatch and i do not know if it is broke or is it some kinda suspension for the hatch. if you look in the first two photos you can see that the mount is fully out and has a 2-3 inch gap from the rod to the hatch. the other 2 photos you can see that it is closer only 1/2 inch to 1 inch gap. the mount is moving up and down causing it to squeak badly.

i dont get what your trying to prove....

are you saying that the shoulder socket is loose? if so, it looks like you can remove the hatch support, fit a deep socket over it and tighten the mount

Yeah, this is what you need to do.:nod:

i dont get what your trying to prove....

are you saying that the shoulder socket is loose? if so, it looks like you can remove the hatch support, fit a deep socket over it and tighten the mount

it's not the ball joint mount. i double check it just in case. it's screwed in all the way. the part that holds it is moving in and out of my hatch. anyone have any pics of it that could post? i was thinking about using a two part epoxy and glueing it so it wouldn't move. it's almost a perfect circle though maybe it is suppose to be like that. unfornuately all my friend drive imports (fags) so i can't look at theirs.

i just took a look at my hatch supports.......i recognzied that the gap between the hatch support itself and the interior paneling was about an inch greater on the DS. maybe thats just factory

im telling you, your not gunna hear squeeking from that loose part. just swap out the hatch struts and probem solved

is it a solid mount or does it move? i will get some props soon and see but usually you don't replace those till they stop holding the trunk up.

is it a solid mount or does it move? i will get some props soon and see but usually you don't replace those till they stop holding the trunk up.

......or of they start squeeking.

the mounts on my hatch are SOLID and dont move. however, it looks like you could throw a deep socket over the ball and tighten down the base

mine got real weak, we picked up a set of new ones from napa...dont remember the price but i know it was under a 100$.

......

the mounts on my hatch are SOLID and dont move. however, it looks like you could throw a deep socket over the ball and tighten down the base

thanks for the info mine are definetly not SOLID they move in and out about 1-2 inches like they have some suspension on them. well next step will be to make it a solid mount. not sure what i am going to do yet but i will post my solution to this problem. btw the deep socket method only helps if the ball is loose in which mine isn't, the mount is broke i do believe. also the pics are of the same side (passenger).

thanks for the info mine are definetly not SOLID they move in and out about 1-2 inches like they have some suspension on them. well next step will be to make it a solid mount. not sure what i am going to do yet but i will post my solution to this problem. btw the deep socket method only helps if the ball is loose in which mine isn't, the mount is broke i do believe. also the pics are of the same side (passenger).

patch is up with 'jb weld'. that stuff will make it hold for decades

JB Weld is literally responsible for keeping the earth turning.

i just replaced mine today. to whoever said they are $30 at advance auto, that is PER side. the dealer wanted $65 per side (or 85, they didn't know which, wanted my VIN and since they didn't have them in stock i just told the guy i'd get them at autozone and he said he didn't blame me if i could get them for half that price) i got them at autozone for $30 each side (advance was out and the autozone i was at was out but there was one down the road that had them) the guys at the autozone helped me put them in. the T47 torx on the body of the car is a bitch to get loose. ironically i was at a chevy dealer having a PDR guy fix a ding in my right 1/4 panel and when i opened the hatch to get the jack and spare out for him, it wouldn't stay up. it was fine yesterday and it was cooler yesterday than today and i normally only have trouble with it when its cold (i store the car in the winter so it's not that often) but there is usally SOME resistance. when i lifted up the hatch today it was as if there were no struts on there at all.

Guys its not what yall keep saying, The strut is attached to a round disk that is then bonded to the hatch, his broke and now move freely in the hatch. I have one like that and about to just remove them because it gives me a horrible rattle.,

^ Agreed, you can tell the part that mounts to the hatch is moving on his pictures. The ones in my 95 squeek like a mother fucker. It's beyond annoying and I need to change them. They work perfectly fine, but the squeeking is insane. It's not holding the hatch in place for some odd reason and it bounces around. I need to check and see it the strut mount is broken. If it would stop raining outside I might actually get to fix it.

I have the same problem with my 95 TA.

Its not the shocks or the socket. Its what the socket is connected to.

From what I can see there's no way to access it so I'm going to try some jb weld.

Anyone else find a solution?

It's amusing that you necroposted this because I noticed that driver's side mount in my Formula is broken. The one I was mentioning possibly being broken in my 95 wasn't and the squeeking was simply the rear seat.

Any ideas on repair? There is alot of force acting on that area from the hatch shocks and the weight of the hatch.

Ahh, the thread I was looking for. Any updates on this from anyone? I just posted a similar thread. Did JB Weld hold? Is it supposed to move?

I found a way to fasten the ball stud without having to use epoxy which will fail again. You can simply screw self-tapping screws into the fiberglass. I got the idea from another member on here. I can post up pictures of the fix too. All of the screws are hidden by the trim piece as well. This IS a better alternative than JB weld, as someone attempted that before, and it still failed. I can see the broken and busted epoxy from the previous application.

As far as the hatch squeak, I attempted everything. I replaced the struts, I removed the jack and spare, messed with the hatch mechanism, the rubber bumpers on the hatch, etc. None of that fixed it for me. For me, the squeak was my passenger exhaust tip. I have a Borla adjustable CB and the exhaust tip on the passenger side was rubbing against a structural pinch weld, at the bottom of the compartment for the spare tire and jack. I bent this back and have absolutely no rear hatch squeak. I will post pictures up later.