Nick_Rapitis

iTrader: (15)

someone told me i should take out the spark plugs and all that stuff before i do the header install...im gonna be throwing in some air/egr ceramic pacesetters...what do you guys think?

deelong4002

iTrader: (8)

i didnt take them out until after i took the manifolds out. But then i did take them out before the header install. I could see how they might be a pain if they were still in there.

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

You don't have to pull the plugs.

However, changing the plugs while the headers are out is easy, so if they haven't been changed recently, you might as well do it.

Another thing to check/change would be motor mounts. If you are over 75K miles, the drivers side mount is probably getting worn out. Its much easier to do the job with the headers out. I made the mistake of changing them after installing the headers, so I actually ended up pulling the headers out again to gain access to the mounts - and it was still tight. I'd reccommend upgrading to poly mounts, thats what I have, they stiffen everything up a lot but don't give you the bad vibrations that solid mounts do. Its especially important to have good engine mounts with LT headers, because if you don't the driver's side header collector will hit the floor when you accelerate.

Nick_Rapitis

iTrader: (15)

what about hooker compared to pacesetter?

deelong4002

iTrader: (8)

besides, the plugs are WAY easier to change with the headers than the manifolds and cats. The #8 is so easy from the bottom with my headers.

LS1TechRulez

iTrader: (1)

off topic question:

does anyone know how many stock bolts are used to hold in the stock header?

I am putting back together my car right now and I am counting 6 holes on each side but I only have a total of 10 bolts? wtf? any help would be appreciated.

Nick_Rapitis

iTrader: (15)

lol should have enough to fill the holes man...did you just misplace them?

TurdsOfMayhem

iTrader: (4)

6 bolts on each side I do believe
I have read many different things when it comes to changing the mounts. I plan on doing my own header install when I get them, but changing the mounts sounds really daunting(sp) from what I have read.

bigcraig987

I say change them or at least the ones in the back after getting the manifolds off before putting the headers on since it is way easier with all of the free space, number 7 is a PITA after the headers are in there. just be careful not to bump them when putting the headers on.

fatdave

iTrader: (6)

6 bolts per manifold. I would take the plugs out before removing the stock manifolds. That way there is no chance of breaking one off. Much easier to change them once you have headers. With my ARH I can change all my plugs from the top in about 10 mins

twitchtwice

iTrader: (12)

during my install, i put the new plugs in, then i put my headers on. i knew it would be wayyyy easier that way.

Mumbles

iTrader: (5)

I'm in the middle of my header install. Here is a list of what I'm doing:

Jet Hot Long Tube Headers w/emissions
Jet Hot Catted Y-Pipe
Prothane Poly Motor Mounts
NGK TR55GP Plugs
MSD Superconductor Wires

I pulled the coils, wires, and plugs before removing the manifolds. Obviously I'm replacing the plugs and wires, so getting them outta the way ASAP was what I thought would be the best approach. I guess if you're not planning to replace them you could try it without removing them, but thats just one more thing you have to work around in an already close quarters situation. I also noticed my drivers side header slide up and in without any trouble. I believe this is due to the poly mounts repositioning the motor just a bit higher than the factory mounts, giving just a bit more room. Definitely agree with the above post saying that it is MUCH EASIER to replace the Motor Mounts with the exhaust outta the way. I recommend taking the extra time to do this now, or you will regret it later. Also you don't want your new Y-pipe banging on the floor pan from your your motor flexing. The polys will help with that too. Anyways, I've said enough...good luck with your install.

Nick_Rapitis

iTrader: (15)

how much of a bitch is it to do the motor mounts? doesnt sound like it would be easy with just jack and jack stands in a driveway...

alw041

iTrader: (2)

I would like to know this too

Mumbles

iTrader: (5)

Through my searching on this site, some say if you can survive changing motor mounts in an LSx car, you can handle ANY other mod you can think to tackle. Reassuring, isn't it. LOL

I've just begun my experience with modding these cars and I've now done two sets of MM installs, with a third soon on the horizon. You definitely need to exercise some patience. There is alot of **** to get outta the way before you can even get to the mounts, but think about it this way... if you just do the headers and then you decide that you can't stand the Y-pipe banging on the floorpan, you have to pretty much undo your entire header install and then begin your mm install. Check out this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-written.html

It is spot on for everthing you have to do to get the poly mm installed. Its what I used to guide me through my first time.

As for doing this in a driveway...Mmm? I personally wouldn't, due to the fact that you would be at the mercy of the weather. (Plus my brother and I built a shop for this very reason.) But I've read of many people that do their header install in their driveways, and this is just taking that one step further. So, if the driveway is your only choice, I say, go for it! You'll be glad you did. And you'll know you've accomplished something when you are through. Like I said, take a look at that thread and it'll give you an idea of what to expect. But my honest opinion is this: If I can do it, you can do it. Good luck. =-)

twitchtwice

iTrader: (12)

i heard its about a 20-25 hour job, by taking your time, and for your first time.

i went ahead and skipped it, mainly because i dont have a y pipe, and secondly because my car only has 37k miles, so my mounts are still going to be good for a while. for a job that long, id much rather pay a sponsor to take care of it for me. time is money.

metalmechanic

mounts are easy with exhaust out of the way, lossen the bolts and jack up the engine a little

LS1nterceptor

iTrader: (6)

I did not take out my spark plugs. I recently changed them before I bought my headers so I'm not touching them. I even left on my rear spark plug wires attached so I didn't have to fight putting them on later. My Pacesetter long tube headers practically mounted themselves and slid right into place without touching a spark plug. That's about the only thing that has gone right so far, but it was a pleasant surprise.

I just finished mine last night and they were one of the biggest pains I have ever had on a car. I used basic hand tools since my air wrench broke, lying on my back in my driveway, by myself. It was horrible. And I've still got more to do today but I believe that now the mounts are done the worst is behind me. Now that I've done motor mounts on this car I could do it a lot easier and I've got a couple of tips.

When I mounted the new polyurethane mounts on the engine and lowered them into the cradles, they were each about a half inch off center. If I got one in the other could not fit and vice versa. I had heard that just prying on them a little would help, but it didn't. I even took them off and checked to make sure I had them assembled correctly. They were. Put them back and had the same problem. No amount of prying with a bar was going to line them up. So I loosened the bolts that connect the cradles to the frame (not removed, just loosened about 90% of the way out) and moved the cradle to the motor mount. Once I got the blot to line up, then I tightened down the cradles back to the frame. If I had done that the first time I would have been done a couple of hours sooner. I don't know if all poly mounts are this far out of spec but mine were horrible.

Listen to Brad8266's advise when he says:

I swore I had a set of these and apparently I was wrong. I got started and realized I either loaned them out of lost them and I was in hell. I used a hand wrench because of how far away the nearest parts store is, and it sucked. This one tool alone could have saved me a couple of hours.

Neh. I've only been able to work on the car for an hour here and an hour there over the last week for a total of about 10 hours. If I had my ratchet end wrenches and figured out how to wrestle the mounts on sooner I would only be looking at about 6 hours currently. This is not my first time to install motor mounts, but it is my first time on an LS1. And it's been an experience.

Mumbles

iTrader: (5)

I don't believe because the holes don't line up worth a **** means they're out of spec. The point of the mounts is to eliminate movement, so having to force the long mm bolt into place puts pressure on the mounts and helps to hold the motor in place as well.

Good call on loosening the pedestal bolts. Thats the same method I used to get the long bolts into place.