Can I cut my lower air intake box?
#1
Can I cut my lower air intake box?
Well i should be getting my SLP lid shortly and was looking underneath my air filter where the filter box is. It seems like it doesnt get much airflow through the bottom so was wondering if i could cut it? I know i would gain a lot from a FTRA but cant afford that right now. So would this help it some, or actually draw in heat from the radiator? Picture is kinda blurry and i circled the area in red of what i want to cut.
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#10
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"FRA" mod -will- heat soak your IAT at idle. The air
slot is still more cross-sectional area than some of
the downstream inlet tract choke-points. You might
be better off to baffle the engine bay from the "nose
space" above the divider panel, let the slot draw
nose-space air and try to open up any cooler air
paths (Camaro "nostrils" can have the foam carved
out to improve that, do not know about Firebirds).
This has shown me IAT readings similar to the SS
cold air hood, while SLP CAI (basically "FRA" with
a steel shorty duct) was much hotter.
Loop to the L&N FIPK for ideas on fabbing a baffle.
Aluminum or plastic angle stock might be good.
The FRA in itself is a half-*** mod that may cost
you more than it helps, particularly off-the line
after prolonged idling. The timing-pull from a
heated up IAT sensor will not go away for several
seconds. Depending on IAT location (in or out of
high velocity air flow) it can be more; Blackwing
lid had it way off in a dead corner of the lid and
was very slow recovering, in-MAF ones are a
couple of seconds on air-step.
slot is still more cross-sectional area than some of
the downstream inlet tract choke-points. You might
be better off to baffle the engine bay from the "nose
space" above the divider panel, let the slot draw
nose-space air and try to open up any cooler air
paths (Camaro "nostrils" can have the foam carved
out to improve that, do not know about Firebirds).
This has shown me IAT readings similar to the SS
cold air hood, while SLP CAI (basically "FRA" with
a steel shorty duct) was much hotter.
Loop to the L&N FIPK for ideas on fabbing a baffle.
Aluminum or plastic angle stock might be good.
The FRA in itself is a half-*** mod that may cost
you more than it helps, particularly off-the line
after prolonged idling. The timing-pull from a
heated up IAT sensor will not go away for several
seconds. Depending on IAT location (in or out of
high velocity air flow) it can be more; Blackwing
lid had it way off in a dead corner of the lid and
was very slow recovering, in-MAF ones are a
couple of seconds on air-step.
#11
If I had a choice, I would to the free ram air mod as stated above, and get an SLP lid to go with and get the SSRA.
Its made of abs plastic, has a nice scoop at the bottom portion of your bumper to scoop in as much air as possible. Another benefit to it being plastic is heat soak issues. Id consider it.
Its made of abs plastic, has a nice scoop at the bottom portion of your bumper to scoop in as much air as possible. Another benefit to it being plastic is heat soak issues. Id consider it.