Bad30th

iTrader: (13)

I'm working on getting the correct factory return line fitting in place but am having problems getting anything to fit because the clearance is so tight... I have about 1.5" from the trans to the frame.

I have been working on it and have built up two return line setups, neither fit yet... The first uses the GM factory return line fitting and a snap-in adaptor that converts to -6AN (and a 90 degree -6AN turn) - way too big to fit... The other setup is a modified factory fitting threaded on the inside, and a (pre-bent) hard line with a threaded compression fitting at the other end. This piece is actually supposed to be used to convert the new style '80E trans to the older style (pre-'97?) lines, but I figured it might work/fit and I could plumb it to my factory line...



What I really need is something with a tighter turn off the factory fitting to clear the tight space... Any ideas ? I've thought of cutting as much as I can off the short end of the compression fitting and shortening the hard line to move the turn closer to the fitting, but I'm worried about being able to re-flare the tube with it that short...

Thanks,
Rob (Bad30th)

slow67

iTrader: (2)

Why not use a tubing bender and use the 2nd line (just re-bend it closer)

Bad30th

iTrader: (13)

Thought of that, but it's pretty hefty tubing and pretty short, and I don't have a tubing bender (although I could get one)... Would probably be easier to cut the tube shorter and reflare the end, or just make a new line and use the fittings from this one.

I'm stopping by a shop today that carries all kinds of hydraulic fittings and stuff and I'm thinking I will either just make another line using the fittings, or figure out a way to bend/cut the line to fit...

Thanks,
Rob (Bad30th)

MUSTANGBRKR02

iTrader: (91)

I just bent mine by hand just slightly and it works great about 5k miles and no problems. It's tight but no hitting.

MUSTANGBRKR02

iTrader: (91)

and judging by the picture i can see the problem
1. remove beer
2. chilled glass
3. fill with ice
4. fill with Captain Morgan and coke to suit
5. problem solved

Bad30th

iTrader: (13)

Haha I may switch to harder booze if I don't get this resolved, but I think I'm on my way... I'm a Cap'n fan myself :



I stopped by the handy-dandy local Earl's fittings shop today at lunch and picked up some more stuff...

I used the modified factory fitting from the 2nd line, and picked up an adaptor that would thread directly into it and makes a hard 90 degree turn to -6AN, some more -6 braided line, a female -6AN and a compression fitting to attach it to the factory hard line.



I'll give it a try this weekend, hopefully it will clear and do the trick.

Cheers,
Rob (Bad30th)

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

what i did to clear was take the factory rear fitting, screw it in tight, mark where it ended up so i know where it is pointing forward-i then ground some of it off, got a steel 90 deg AN 6 to 1/4 pipe or what ever, cut some of the pipe end off, welded it to the fact. fitting, now i have a real tight 90 deg that cleared like a champ-make sure to rem the int/ext o ring before welding

MUSTANGBRKR02

iTrader: (91)

See bas soon as you had a little captain you got the right stuff. But i would be interested to know how it works. I would like to run AN line on mine.

FLT

iTrader: (1)

I recently had a build that the customer wanted to use this setup in the picture below. These are -6 AN fittings for fuel lines. I do not have the size for the part that goes in the fitting but I will see if I can get it for you guys. I would assume these could be purchased in 90* fittings as well. Vince

MUSTANGBRKR02

iTrader: (91)

Vince, Are you going to make these to sell(Hint)?

FLT

iTrader: (1)

No sorry I am way to busy with building transmissions to make fittings. I think with the right part numbers/pieces this is an easy task. Vince

MUSTANGBRKR02

iTrader: (91)

Alright. But i tried. A list of what you used could be useful

Bad30th

iTrader: (13)

Well, got the old line removed. The new assembly wouldn't fit in as one piece, so I got as far as getting the modified factory fitting in place. The 90 degree turn won't fit... Real close but no cigar. If I put it next to the factory fitting it only needs about 1mm of clearance with the threads already in - but I need 4-5mm to get the threads into the fitting.

Any idea how to clearance it a bit without dropping the trans ?





Rob (Bad30th)

Bad30th

iTrader: (13)

I have a couple of those snap-in to -6AN fittings. No way those will work for me, that's what's in my first post, connected to the 90 degree -6AN fitting.

Even if I do drop the trans I'm afraid to BFH much since the trans crossmember bolts up close by the area that needs "modification"... Maybe a grinder ?

God what a PITA, nothing right is ever easy haha.

Rob (Bad30th)

Bad30th

iTrader: (13)

Vice, hammer, 2 beers and the original 2nd line/fittings FTMFW !



Not quite as pretty as I'd have liked but it works !

Thanks for the help and encouragement everyone. Now to pour a nice tall Cap'n and coke to celebrate.

I'll be sure to check for leaks and top off the fluid when I start her back up.
Cheers,
Rob (Bad30th)

FLT

iTrader: (1)

Here are a couple fittings that I have made for the rear fitting on the 4l80e. These are basic 1/4 pipe to -6 AN fittings that I drill to install a 3/8 steel line. Make sure you drill it straight. The fitting and the small section steel line is a press fit. I do apply a bit of lock tight on the line before pressing it into the fitting. Probably overkill but that is how I do it. The first thing is to get a "U" size drill bit that is just a few thousands smaller than the 3/8 steel line. The "U" size bit is the key here and is a machinist size. The first hole with the "U" size is drilled about 3/4" in depth. The second step I used a bit that is just larger to allow the line to go into the fitting a bit. Maybe a 1/4" of the depth of the first hole drilled. It's either a "T" or a "V" in my set. I can't remember right at the moment. It is the larger size of the two. The third step I use an arbor press,(I guess a vise would work) and press it down until it was seated in the fitting. Remember the length of the line is important and should be measured to make sure that the extension does reach the seal in the transmissions center support. Do this after the line is pressed into the fitting. I usually do all this while I am building the trans to verify that the fitting will work properly. Remember that there is a seal in the center support that the tube needs to reach. You can brush some grease on the line and then install it into the case. Normally you will see witness marks from the seal removing the grease. This way you know it's doing its job. I always make the line a bit longer than the factory fitting and trim it down to size when it is ready to be installed. Note the AN fitting will be very tight when you get it fully in the case and snug. You may not need to have all the threads in the case. Try not to force it because the thread size is not an exact match to the case size and you could break the case if you are not careful. I do use some Teflon paste or anaerobic sealer on the threads of the fitting before being installed into the case to eliminate any leaks. I usually install the 90* fittings pointing back towards the tail housing. I feel it gives you a bit more room for the cooler lines in the tunnel. I have been told that there is a way to tap the case with a different size thread and use a different size AN fitting to do this. Basically the case needs to be empty to tap the hole before hand so metal does not get into the case. Sorry I do not have that info on the sizes but the method I used works. Here are a couple photo's of what I have made. Vince

Bad30th

iTrader: (13)

Good info, thanks ! That bottom one looks like it woulda fit and saved me some headache, hehe.

Rob (Bad30th)

FLT

iTrader: (1)

LOL I was actually working on my post as you posted up yours. Looks like you got it done! The bottom one is what I would have used for your application. I did forget to mention that it is best to angle the 90* fitting towards the rear because the hose connector the other way is very tight to the case. Vince

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

Vince-i dont agree with the fittings your using, you are threading a 1/4-18 npt into a hole designed for a 1/4-18 npts (straight) thread-kind of like x threading a fine thread bolt into a course threaded hole-will it work, prob., but not everyone has a good feel for how tight, and to break a 4l80e case, well, you might get calls, lol
i made the same fitting you did (top, straight) but used the fittings from
ATI Perf. Prods. or below link-i just didnt feel safe with it, even though it was a tight press fit-thats why i just welded on a 90- deg steel fitting-tightest fit you can get, and only took 30 mins.
you might not agree with me, and people can do what they want, i prefer to use the right threaded stuff

http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com...cat/cat135.htm

FLT

iTrader: (1)

Agreed on what you said. If I get a call because someone broke a case I personally will not take that to heart! I did mention that it is not the exact thread but it will work. Also to be careful when tightening it. I have also found that not using tape on the threads reduces breaking the case. I personally think anaerobic or a good lock tight for sealing threads is the best method for sealing the threads. I have done a bunch this way and personally I have never broke a case. But as you mentioned there are some gorillas out there! No hard feelings. Vince